Drewdq's SBR 2.4/FP Black Build
A good bore mic goes a long way. Especially someone that sets up top alcohol motors and has plenty of reason to check various depths in the cylinder.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
For the record, he (our machinist) is the one that solid fills our race blocks and sets up all our piston to wall, we do final assembly. At this point he has more 1050+whp block builds under his belt than there are likely running in America at this time. Archie is old hat at what he does, we pay a premium for his services, and havent been let down yet on machine work. I pull bearings out of a crank that say .25mm on them I am positive I know what I am looking at is not a fresh crank but a turned one. My mic backed it up when I compared to a known std finish crank.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
For the record, he (our machinist) is the one that solid fills our race blocks and sets up all our piston to wall, we do final assembly. At this point he has more 1050+whp block builds under his belt than there are likely running in America at this time. Archie is old hat at what he does, we pay a premium for his services, and havent been let down yet on machine work. I pull bearings out of a crank that say .25mm on them I am positive I know what I am looking at is not a fresh crank but a turned one. My mic backed it up when I compared to a known std finish crank.
Last edited by project_skyline; Aug 18, 2010 at 01:19 AM.
A good bore mic goes a long way. Especially someone that sets up top alcohol motors and has plenty of reason to check various depths in the cylinder.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
A good bore mic goes a long way. Especially someone that sets up top alcohol motors and has plenty of reason to check various depths in the cylinder.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
For the record, he (our machinist) is the one that solid fills our race blocks and sets up all our piston to wall, we do final assembly. At this point he has more 1050+whp block builds under his belt than there are likely running in America at this time. Archie is old hat at what he does, we pay a premium for his services, and havent been let down yet on machine work. I pull bearings out of a crank that say .25mm on them I am positive I know what I am looking at is not a fresh crank but a turned one. My mic backed it up when I compared to a known std finish crank.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
For the record, he (our machinist) is the one that solid fills our race blocks and sets up all our piston to wall, we do final assembly. At this point he has more 1050+whp block builds under his belt than there are likely running in America at this time. Archie is old hat at what he does, we pay a premium for his services, and havent been let down yet on machine work. I pull bearings out of a crank that say .25mm on them I am positive I know what I am looking at is not a fresh crank but a turned one. My mic backed it up when I compared to a known std finish crank.
Thanks for the specs Aaron. Nice to see that my motor was in such great hands
A good bore mic goes a long way. Especially someone that sets up top alcohol motors and has plenty of reason to check various depths in the cylinder.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
For the record, he (our machinist) is the one that solid fills our race blocks and sets up all our piston to wall, we do final assembly. At this point he has more 1050+whp block builds under his belt than there are likely running in America at this time. Archie is old hat at what he does, we pay a premium for his services, and havent been let down yet on machine work. I pull bearings out of a crank that say .25mm on them I am positive I know what I am looking at is not a fresh crank but a turned one. My mic backed it up when I compared to a known std finish crank.
A crank that has been cut at least .010 and was polished afterward has almost no nitriding left- http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index2.html (specifically paragraph 3) Nitriding is a standardised machine process so its not going to vary between engine makes more than a thou or 2.
The bores were .045, .051, .061, .043 on piston to wall vs brand new Wiseco 87mm slugs.
The bore on one cylinder was .043 at the top, .060 in the middle, and .050 at the bottom of the skirt in 100mm of plunge depth. If you have reasons to doubt this I can PM the number of my machinist and he can tell you what he did. Chances are he will call you names and hang up, he's that kind of guy. I was going to leave this off the net but since you asked I decided to give the info out.
For the record, he (our machinist) is the one that solid fills our race blocks and sets up all our piston to wall, we do final assembly. At this point he has more 1050+whp block builds under his belt than there are likely running in America at this time. Archie is old hat at what he does, we pay a premium for his services, and havent been let down yet on machine work. I pull bearings out of a crank that say .25mm on them I am positive I know what I am looking at is not a fresh crank but a turned one. My mic backed it up when I compared to a known std finish crank.
Besides, you have never said anything nice about us, as a matter of fact just the opposite. The machine we use to do the final hone those numbers are not even possible on a new motor, 100% not possible. As much crap as you give me, you are still welcome to come in anytime and work along side my machinist - I bet he will even let you touch a real dial bore gauge!
Anyone can walk in my front door and ask to see the motor build book, or for that matter watch any of our machining or measuring process's.
So we can sit here and talk about who's machinist has a bigger ****** all day - but the fact is mine has done over 600 4G63 blocks - my hone is the best money could buy four years ago and most likely still is today.
Or we can sit here and say - but my machinist is never wrong - and you guys suck.
It's really up to you, but other than trying to make us look bad - what is the purpose of your post really?
Mike Huml
Slowboy -
LOL
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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From: Conshohocken, PA
Bringing this thread out from the dead with some updates. Here is my updated parts list:
SBR Stage III 2.4L
Headwork by Ron Whitney, fully rebuilt/ported
Intake/Turbo
Exhuast
Drivetrain
Fuel
Other
As of now, I am considering taking my car somewhere to be assembled in the area, just because I don't have the time/space to get this done in a reasonable amount of time. I'm also considering doing a SD setup right off the bat, which would require a different intake, but part of me just wants to see it run on the MAF first. I'm 100% sure I'll be doing SD before I get it tuned for power.
EvoM - Any other suggestions/comments on the parts list?
SBR Stage III 2.4L
- OEM 100mm Crank
- Manley I Beam Rods
- Manley 9:5 87mm Pistons
- ACL Race Bearings
- ARP Mains
- AMS Custom HG
- ARP L19s
- OEM water pump with spacer
- OEM Oil Pump Assembly
- OEM 4g64 Timing Belt with new tensioner, idler pulley, idler belt
- Balance shaft and oil squirters removed
- New OEM Oil Cooler
- OEM complete gasket set
- EGR Block plate
Headwork by Ron Whitney, fully rebuilt/ported
- Manley springs, titanium retainers
- Manley valves, 1mm oversized
- 3 angle valve job
- Kiggly HLA
- FP4R Cams
Intake/Turbo
- Ported FP Black with install kit
- Ported stock intake manifold
- Mil.Spec 65mm throttle body
- Muse short route UICP
- Buschur LICP
- FP Intake pipe
- Perrin Air Filter
- ETS 3.5 FMIC
- Forge RS BOV
- Hallman Pro MBC
Exhuast
- MAP Tubular Exhaust manifold
- FP Exhaust Stud kit
- Megan O2 housing
- Megan Downpipe
- Straight pipe
- HKS 3" Exhaust
Drivetrain
- Shep Ultimate Ratio Trans
- Shep Stage III Transfer Case w/ LSD
- Quartermaster Twin Kit (used 2k miles)
- New AMS motor mounts (3)
Fuel
- Buschur Double Pumper (installed)
- FIC 1650's
Other
- Gates upper/lower Radiator Hoses
- Spoolinup COP
- AMS small battery tray
- MAP small battery
- AEM Wideband
- AEM Boost gauge/controller
- Stock ECU Tephra V7 (with MAF for now)
- Shockproof Light Gear oil x3
As of now, I am considering taking my car somewhere to be assembled in the area, just because I don't have the time/space to get this done in a reasonable amount of time. I'm also considering doing a SD setup right off the bat, which would require a different intake, but part of me just wants to see it run on the MAF first. I'm 100% sure I'll be doing SD before I get it tuned for power.
EvoM - Any other suggestions/comments on the parts list?
Last edited by drewdq; Nov 14, 2010 at 01:27 PM.
thread revival FTW!
so what happened with this build? i'm very curious since i'm buying an evo that has a sbr 2.4 stage II on it. What's the difference between stage II and III? also, i tried calling SBR twice on a monday afternoon to not get an answer in any department and voicemail boxes full. i wanted to ask if they cnc oil squirters on the 4g64 blocks or not? anybody know? i'm sending them an email now, hopefully i get a respond on the specifics of the guys build.
so what happened with this build? i'm very curious since i'm buying an evo that has a sbr 2.4 stage II on it. What's the difference between stage II and III? also, i tried calling SBR twice on a monday afternoon to not get an answer in any department and voicemail boxes full. i wanted to ask if they cnc oil squirters on the 4g64 blocks or not? anybody know? i'm sending them an email now, hopefully i get a respond on the specifics of the guys build.
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Any good machine shop can machine in Oil squirters in a 4G64. I'm sure they can do it. I am curious whatever happened to this build.
And I know its old but I was running 1450's and was told by various reputable sources if I wanted anything over 600 to go with 1650's and if I wanted over 650 I might as well go up to 2150's r ID2000. Thinking about FIC's high impedance 1680's. For the power level I want that might be perfect.
And I know its old but I was running 1450's and was told by various reputable sources if I wanted anything over 600 to go with 1650's and if I wanted over 650 I might as well go up to 2150's r ID2000. Thinking about FIC's high impedance 1680's. For the power level I want that might be perfect.
spoke with mike at SBR via email and he said for the specific car i'm buying they did not cnc oil squirters. He is also checking for me to see if the crank was completely OEM or if it was cut.
ps there are mathematical ways to figuring out the size of your injectors depending on fuel, bsfc, etc for given or desired horsepower. theoretically.
ps there are mathematical ways to figuring out the size of your injectors depending on fuel, bsfc, etc for given or desired horsepower. theoretically.