Shepherd Transmission for Evo 03-06 MR 6 Speed (Sheptrans 6spd)
Jan 20, 2014, 05:38 PM
#512
Evolved Member
I did so too..
Had special adapters made for the fill and drain holes on the box, to fit as large hose as possible
running a tilton pump, manually operated... Pump stays off when driving normally... On the track I just switch it on..
Will post some pics of the setup..
Had special adapters made for the fill and drain holes on the box, to fit as large hose as possible
running a tilton pump, manually operated... Pump stays off when driving normally... On the track I just switch it on..
Will post some pics of the setup..
Jan 20, 2014, 07:21 PM
#514
Evolved Member
I think even 5 speed boxes could benefit.. most of us are pushing some 40 to 50% more power then stock..
Jan 20, 2014, 08:48 PM
#515
I used an expensive RB pump, all brass internals to take the heat and not fail. Based on the research I got too into it. Doing it again I would just use any old cheap pump, since I only run it on track and otherwise daily the car.
If not obvious to all running a cooler setup make sure you filter particulates somehow because you removed the magnet with those adapters as I did. I have some weird fancy filter can I bought with the pump. Also expensive.
@skilmatic, how did you mount the pump? To what. I like your location, as mine became a complicated aluminum bracketed thing next to the ACD pump. It looks simpler and cleaner. Can you put up some more pics of the mounting?
Jan 21, 2014, 12:16 AM
#516
Evolved Member
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Update from John:
Also, I believe it is talked about early in this thread how John can/will add bungs to the housing for a cooler/pump setup. I prefer this method
I am working on it but do not know any more at this time. I will not be releasing pricing until they are ready to ship. I made the mistake of doing this last time and the rate drastically changed.
John Shepherd
John Shepherd
Jan 21, 2014, 02:27 AM
#517
In my tests of daily driving I would get 180s with the under tray off, 200s with all plastics on. Based on all the aero theory I read I expected the opposite but it didn't happen. That was all freeway and moderate 'take mom to lunch' kind of driving. Am tent temps didn't seem to make a difference and I am in SoCal so they were up to 100s.
I used an expensive RB pump, all brass internals to take the heat and not fail. Based on the research I got too into it. Doing it again I would just use any old cheap pump, since I only run it on track and otherwise daily the car.
If not obvious to all running a cooler setup make sure you filter particulates somehow because you removed the magnet with those adapters as I did. I have some weird fancy filter can I bought with the pump. Also expensive.
@skilmatic, how did you mount the pump? To what. I like your location, as mine became a complicated aluminum bracketed thing next to the ACD pump. It looks simpler and cleaner. Can you put up some more pics of the mounting?
I used an expensive RB pump, all brass internals to take the heat and not fail. Based on the research I got too into it. Doing it again I would just use any old cheap pump, since I only run it on track and otherwise daily the car.
If not obvious to all running a cooler setup make sure you filter particulates somehow because you removed the magnet with those adapters as I did. I have some weird fancy filter can I bought with the pump. Also expensive.
@skilmatic, how did you mount the pump? To what. I like your location, as mine became a complicated aluminum bracketed thing next to the ACD pump. It looks simpler and cleaner. Can you put up some more pics of the mounting?
You can tell from the existing pic how it is mounted. I made a bracket around the pump and there is a rod that sticks out. If you follow the pump to the left it sticks out to the left and it is welded there at the contact point.
Form and function are important to me as you can tell.
Jan 21, 2014, 03:36 AM
#518
Evolved Member
one thing about pump location and connection... The instructions I got from tilton were to setup the pump to pull oil from the cooler and cooler to be connected directly to the gearbox oil drain, That way the pump gets cooler oil..
Jan 21, 2014, 05:05 AM
#520
Evolved Member
tilton pump is about 1.7 KG, but you might like the continuous use vesion which is 2.5 kg, add 1 kg for the cooler and about 1 kg for the extra oil.. maybe a bit more.
Jan 21, 2014, 10:52 AM
#522
The added weight is a downside yes, but the pros IMHO definitely outweight this. Another thing I am working on is moving all of the weight behind or closer to where the front of the chassis is to help with handling. But where you add weight you can also shed weight in other areas. So in essence you play a game of give and take. Just like many relationships.
Jan 21, 2014, 11:16 AM
#523
Well there are probably a million ways to do this. As long as oil gets circulated and not leak it will do a great job of cooling.
I was specifically instructed by RB racing to have the pump draw from the drain and pump its pressure through the system back to the fill. This guy knows his stuff, and has a big racing history, and as such is a very strong opinion'd kind of guy. Maybe not the friendliest either, to guys that don't know much about fittings, like me. He would likely say the only reason Tilton is telling you that, is because their pump will fail with the oil temps coming in. That is why the internals of the pump are critical to hanlde high heat. I think its likely all overkill, but that is the information I found when doing my research.
There is some pretty good info here if a bit clunky to navigate, for those that didn't see it on my pump build thread.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Protection of the pump and the lines is key as was mentioned. Not so much about the pump failing or getting corroded though. Just to be clear if something snags the line and you don't know, you will soon have a big bang theory of your own.
I would say the real compromise for the pump addition isn't added weight, though mine is heavy, its the risk of additional connections and points of failure with oil leaking out. That is the real trade off and require diligent maintenance to mitigate that risk. Its not a install it and forget it kind of thing.
I was specifically instructed by RB racing to have the pump draw from the drain and pump its pressure through the system back to the fill. This guy knows his stuff, and has a big racing history, and as such is a very strong opinion'd kind of guy. Maybe not the friendliest either, to guys that don't know much about fittings, like me. He would likely say the only reason Tilton is telling you that, is because their pump will fail with the oil temps coming in. That is why the internals of the pump are critical to hanlde high heat. I think its likely all overkill, but that is the information I found when doing my research.
There is some pretty good info here if a bit clunky to navigate, for those that didn't see it on my pump build thread.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Protection of the pump and the lines is key as was mentioned. Not so much about the pump failing or getting corroded though. Just to be clear if something snags the line and you don't know, you will soon have a big bang theory of your own.
I would say the real compromise for the pump addition isn't added weight, though mine is heavy, its the risk of additional connections and points of failure with oil leaking out. That is the real trade off and require diligent maintenance to mitigate that risk. Its not a install it and forget it kind of thing.
Jan 21, 2014, 12:01 PM
#524
Well there are probably a million ways to do this. As long as oil gets circulated and not leak it will do a great job of cooling.
I was specifically instructed by RB racing to have the pump draw from the drain and pump its pressure through the system back to the fill. This guy knows his stuff, and has a big racing history, and as such is a very strong opinion'd kind of guy. Maybe not the friendliest either, to guys that don't know much about fittings, like me. He would likely say the only reason Tilton is telling you that, is because their pump will fail with the oil temps coming in. That is why the internals of the pump are critical to hanlde high heat. I think its likely all overkill, but that is the information I found when doing my research.
There is some pretty good info here if a bit clunky to navigate, for those that didn't see it on my pump build thread.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Protection of the pump and the lines is key as was mentioned. Not so much about the pump failing or getting corroded though. Just to be clear if something snags the line and you don't know, you will soon have a big bang theory of your own.
I would say the real compromise for the pump addition isn't added weight, though mine is heavy, its the risk of additional connections and points of failure with oil leaking out. That is the real trade off and require diligent maintenance to mitigate that risk. Its not a install it and forget it kind of thing.
I was specifically instructed by RB racing to have the pump draw from the drain and pump its pressure through the system back to the fill. This guy knows his stuff, and has a big racing history, and as such is a very strong opinion'd kind of guy. Maybe not the friendliest either, to guys that don't know much about fittings, like me. He would likely say the only reason Tilton is telling you that, is because their pump will fail with the oil temps coming in. That is why the internals of the pump are critical to hanlde high heat. I think its likely all overkill, but that is the information I found when doing my research.
There is some pretty good info here if a bit clunky to navigate, for those that didn't see it on my pump build thread.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Protection of the pump and the lines is key as was mentioned. Not so much about the pump failing or getting corroded though. Just to be clear if something snags the line and you don't know, you will soon have a big bang theory of your own.
I would say the real compromise for the pump addition isn't added weight, though mine is heavy, its the risk of additional connections and points of failure with oil leaking out. That is the real trade off and require diligent maintenance to mitigate that risk. Its not a install it and forget it kind of thing.
And that is why I explained to people it really depends on the kind of pump they use which will determine how you set it up and route everything. I have probably been running mine longer than most people without any hiccups. But I am very meticulous and **** about everything.
