I'm not disagreeing. If the viscosity is too light and the oil is degraded by shear, that results in a loss of film strength. This is why my #1 caveat (above) is "Choose an appropriate viscosity". Increased resistance to shear also one reason why synthetics are superior.


With the relatively low friction designs of most modern engines, studies have revealed that decreasing ZDDP is relatively insignificant. With engines that have shim/bucket valvetrains with stiff (aftermarket) spring pressures, etc., that result in metal face surfaces being forced against each other at high pressures, ZDDP becomes much more important. Popular brands like M1 retain 1200ppm ZDDP in the 15w-50 grade, simply because few contemporary engines call for that viscosity as factory fill. Most engines today use 20-30 weight oils, and the ZDDP concentration in those viscosities has been reduced by as much as 40%. Boutique oils like Amsoil typically retain ~1200ppm ZDDP in all viscosities. Finally, be advised that too much ZDDP (apparent in some oils) is counterproductive, as demonstrated in at least a couple of independent studies. Most boutique oils contain 1200-1300ppm, which appears to be optimum.

 

If the ams oil guy pops up 'im a magician..

 

Im not much of a mechanical engineer or anything like that but heres what I did...it was quite simple. Go do a couple of pulls around the corner, jack the car up...drain the oil and while its draining out of your oil pan feel the film thickness by rubbing the drained oil between your fingers as its coming out of the pan. I been using valvoline racing 20W50 after seeing the differences draining oils, its what works and what will stay.

 

Freddie, 20w50-



RSMike- factory clearances on bearings still.

Ted- Sorry, I reread your post and see what you were saying.

General-

I think this is more about the turbo (if you run a journal bearing in high thrust situations) first, engine bearings second. All important no doubt about it, but the turbo is going to be the first to feel the affects of improper viscosity or an oil that isnt up to the needs of the system.

 

+1 , John's response to me is very informative . I'd also like to know what is the best oil choice for stock block/ minor bolt-on evos that are DD and only pushed hard not so often

 

i use penn green oil 20-50

so far so good

 

After a few searches I found that Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 is available here in Australia and the way to buy it affordably is in a carton of six quarts . I believe a quart is about 950 mills and need 5 Litres anyway .

We get reasonably warm conditions here in summer 30-40C and if its proven that a 20W50 grade works ok then all's good .
I've been told Mobil's synthetic bike oils are group 4 PAO , can anyone confirm ?

Thanks , Adrian .

 

I avoid M1 for reasons of my own valid or not. They would actually suggest their 0W-40 in modded evo's.

I use RP 10W 40 and live where it rarely get's below freezing. I change the oil every 2000 miles and filter every 4000 miles

 

M1 0w-40 is not a good idea to use on a modded or high horsepower evo due to the grade being very thin it will add no protection to the bearings etc.etc.etc.Rp is a good oil but it tends to break down very quickly at around 1,000 miles is were I felt my car to feel sluggish and making my valves slightly tick a bit..That's not a good idea to change your filter every 4,000 miles just order a oem filter for 6 bucks with peace and mind that everything is clean and getting filtered with your new oil..

abra katabra I wave the wand and the amsoil guy will reappear >>>>

 

Aight well there is a dealer for Brad Penn oil about 10 minutes from the house (Wheeler Power Products), and for $5 a quart I think i am gonna try this out for a little while and see how the car likes it.

 

You really have absolutely no idea what you are talking about, yet you speak with such conviction...0W-40 will not protect bearings ???? Untrue. The 0 represents the oils viscosity when cold (so it flows better when cold) and the 40 represents the viscosity when warm.

You felt your car became sluggish after 1,000 miles ?? Are you serious?

Interestingly, your butt dyno disagrees with what most of the synthetic manufacturers have claimed for years which is the oil actually protects better after being used a bit.

There is some good info here : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html

 

closest person that sells brad penn to me is 50 miles away -_-

 

Just got back from Wheeler, picked up a case of Brad Penn 20-50 for $54, got it for $4.50/qt! Also went by Mitsubishi and picked up 3 oil filters, along with dropping by a new E85 station that opened a few weeks ago... $2.49 a gallon...

 

So, 20W 50 is best for
1) ALL modded Evos?
2) Is this regardless of stock OR aftermarket block?
3) Stock or stock frame turbo? Larger turbos?
4) Pump gas/pump + methanol/ E85?
For those of us who won't be driving in sub-zero temperatures and who either rarely or frequently beat on our cars, is this the end-all best weight regardless of the mods/fuel types I mentioned? Just want to be clear on what the point is that has been stated... Thanks

 

Brad Penn is a Semi-Synthetic??? Pretty darn cheap at 4.50 a qt.

I'm not ballsy enough to switch oils after all this time. Kind like if it ain't broke don't fix it I guess.

Like I said once the bottom end is built I'll follow builders recommendations for oil which is generally a thicker oil from what I've seen