EvolutinIX

iTrader: (10)

So what would you suggest for stock bottom end and say...an HTA green

n2oiroc

iTrader: (33)

I mentioned it in another thread and nobody seemed to care.

wshihdnevo

iTrader: (88)

I understand what you are saying. I have run 20w-50 since 36k miles in my stock motor and now have 120k miles on it and it runs just as good and has made 350-380 most of those miles. Just a comment, nothing more.

evolutong

iTrader: (1)

Subscribed

scheides

iTrader: (10)

FWIW I ran M1 10w30 (and 5w30 for 1 winter) in my 05 evo8 for 80k miles. After I crashed the car we pulled the motor out and it was pretty clean but I never saw the bearings (wish I would have).

So for those of us considering jumping the M1 ship, who here runs BP/Amsoil 20w50 and lives in an *actual* cold climate? I will be cold-starting my car (as I always have every winter) in temps down to -40°F. It seems ludicrous to run such a thick weight oil and expect it to do anything but be rubber in the depths of winter.

I am hearing all this talk about it being used on race cars and that means its the best, but what about real street cars doing lots of miles in all sorts of weather? Can I run 5k oil between oil changes on these oils?

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

I do not advise running anything but a "0w-X" in that type of weather. 20w-X is a poor choice for such a cold climate. You can change this in the summer, but in the winter, you want a "0w" that will get oil flowing right away. This is where oils like 0w-40 are especially advantageous.

norcalSRTrida

iTrader: (1)

just curious...are looser tolerances (ie; thinner thickness of the bearings) built into aftermarket bearing sets?

if not, how does one really set bearing clearances if they are sold "std sized" bearings? by sending their rods out to get resized?

for folks that do builds with stock bearing sets, are their bearing clearances really going to differ much from stock?




anyways, interesting topic that'll never have a correct answer.
ive ran 20w-50 in my car for the life of my built motor, but decided to step down to 5/10w-40

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

I follow Ted B advice on oils. He has far more knowledge on the subject than I. I was just pointing out the bearing clearance issue because it should have a say in these talks.

I personally like to change my oil in short intervals. like 2000 miles. I cant stand using 10$ oil because of this. I am currently switching to the Brag penn oil for my engines. it seems to have the best feedback from people around the net who have switched to the oil and rave about it. And I am talking about racers who are experiencing oil related bearing wear. their switch to BP oil has solved their issues. I would use 10-30 in factory engine and the 20-50 for a built engine. at 5$ its a bargain

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

yes after market bearing clearances are looser than factory sets. the factory also offers three different sizes for a standard bearing journal. these stock size bearings differ in size in .0002 increments. much more precision than an aftermarket bearing set. much more expensive too. like close to 200$ because you are buying the shells individually.

scheides

iTrader: (10)

That's fine and all but I can't help but notice your location as being Indiana. Looking for real world usage results over here.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

My location is the deep south (not Indiana), so we don't see anything lower than the teens. When you look at European cars, you'll find much greater usage of "0w" oils, even 0w-60. You're definitely in that category. Without that low cold weather pour point, you'll cause more wear upon startup then you ever will in running the engine. That's what you want to prevent. Also, cold temp performance is one area where synthetics trump conventional oils.

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

Just thought I'd jump in here.

I'll be switching to the 10w-40 Amsoil for the additive package.

I've run Mobil1 10w-30 for the last 30k miles of hard abuse. A lot of track time and lot of 30-40psi pulls. I feel a bit naive for running this oil now...and a bit lucky.

That being said... I change my oil before and after every track event/dyno session. Otherwise I change it after 500-1000 miles.

A point that hasn't been addressed is fouling the oil with fuel. I spoke to a few Chevron Engineers that came to discuss the DELO oil and Coolant options... They commented on the fact that I was fouling the oil with fuel long before I broke the oil down from use/heat/pressure.

I'm trying to find out what exact AMS oil 10w-40 Ted Recommended in the other thread.
*found it* premium protection 10w-40. Thank you Ted. I appreciate your insight and input!

nothere

iTrader: (23)

RT, did you mean to say you change the oil at less than 1000 miles generally?
that is to often, new oil actually attacks metal.

BoostedAWD25

Shell rotella t6 synthetic comes in only 5w-40 not 10w. http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...ucts_home.html

Mochafrap

iTrader: (1)

Good information here. Bump the old thread!