Lubrication thread
#31
EvoM Guru
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Look I'm really interested in this "Zinc and Phosphorus in engine oil" and was going to put up a few links but if you do a google search on it theres a lot of reading to do ... You will notice that camshaft lobes and either buckets/followers/rockers get the attention because they are the areas most likely to be damaged if the oil film isn't up to the task .
#33
Im not much of a mechanical engineer or anything like that but heres what I did...it was quite simple. Go do a couple of pulls around the corner, jack the car up...drain the oil and while its draining out of your oil pan feel the film thickness by rubbing the drained oil between your fingers as its coming out of the pan. I been using valvoline racing 20W50 after seeing the differences draining oils, its what works and what will stay.
#34
So there has yet to be an answer to the question.... If you are still on stock internals what is the best viscosity oil to run? From the posts I have seen tend to steer people with stock internals away from running a thicker 20-50 oil due to bearing tolerances. I would like to get a no BS answer on this...
RSMike- factory clearances on bearings still.
Ted- Sorry, I reread your post and see what you were saying.
General-
I think this is more about the turbo (if you run a journal bearing in high thrust situations) first, engine bearings second. All important no doubt about it, but the turbo is going to be the first to feel the affects of improper viscosity or an oil that isnt up to the needs of the system.
#35
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So there has yet to be an answer to the question.... If you are still on stock internals what is the best viscosity oil to run? From the posts I have seen tend to steer people with stock internals away from running a thicker 20-50 oil due to bearing tolerances. I would like to get a no BS answer on this...
#37
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After a few searches I found that Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 is available here in Australia and the way to buy it affordably is in a carton of six quarts . I believe a quart is about 950 mills and need 5 Litres anyway .
We get reasonably warm conditions here in summer 30-40C and if its proven that a 20W50 grade works ok then all's good .
I've been told Mobil's synthetic bike oils are group 4 PAO , can anyone confirm ?
Thanks , Adrian .
We get reasonably warm conditions here in summer 30-40C and if its proven that a 20W50 grade works ok then all's good .
I've been told Mobil's synthetic bike oils are group 4 PAO , can anyone confirm ?
Thanks , Adrian .
#39
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M1 0w-40 is not a good idea to use on a modded or high horsepower evo due to the grade being very thin it will add no protection to the bearings etc.etc.etc.Rp is a good oil but it tends to break down very quickly at around 1,000 miles is were I felt my car to feel sluggish and making my valves slightly tick a bit..That's not a good idea to change your filter every 4,000 miles just order a oem filter for 6 bucks with peace and mind that everything is clean and getting filtered with your new oil..
abra katabra I wave the wand and the amsoil guy will reappear >>>>
#41
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M1 0w-40 is not a good idea to use on a modded or high horsepower evo due to the grade being very thin it will add no protection to the bearings etc.etc.etc.Rp is a good oil but it tends to break down very quickly at around 1,000 miles is were I felt my car to feel sluggish and making my valves slightly tick a bit..That's not a good idea to change your filter every 4,000 miles just order a oem filter for 6 bucks with peace and mind that everything is clean and getting filtered with your new oil..
abra katabra I wave the wand and the amsoil guy will reappear >>>>
abra katabra I wave the wand and the amsoil guy will reappear >>>>
You felt your car became sluggish after 1,000 miles ?? Are you serious?
Interestingly, your butt dyno disagrees with what most of the synthetic manufacturers have claimed for years which is the oil actually protects better after being used a bit.
There is some good info here : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
#44
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So, 20W 50 is best for
1) ALL modded Evos?
2) Is this regardless of stock OR aftermarket block?
3) Stock or stock frame turbo? Larger turbos?
4) Pump gas/pump + methanol/ E85?
For those of us who won't be driving in sub-zero temperatures and who either rarely or frequently beat on our cars, is this the end-all best weight regardless of the mods/fuel types I mentioned? Just want to be clear on what the point is that has been stated... Thanks
1) ALL modded Evos?
2) Is this regardless of stock OR aftermarket block?
3) Stock or stock frame turbo? Larger turbos?
4) Pump gas/pump + methanol/ E85?
For those of us who won't be driving in sub-zero temperatures and who either rarely or frequently beat on our cars, is this the end-all best weight regardless of the mods/fuel types I mentioned? Just want to be clear on what the point is that has been stated... Thanks
#45
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Brad Penn is a Semi-Synthetic??? Pretty darn cheap at 4.50 a qt.
I'm not ballsy enough to switch oils after all this time. Kind like if it ain't broke don't fix it I guess.
Like I said once the bottom end is built I'll follow builders recommendations for oil which is generally a thicker oil from what I've seen
I'm not ballsy enough to switch oils after all this time. Kind like if it ain't broke don't fix it I guess.
Like I said once the bottom end is built I'll follow builders recommendations for oil which is generally a thicker oil from what I've seen