Don't use mobil 1, it will ruin your journal turbo
#211
Evolved Member
It refers to the amount of polymer added to the oil to raise the viscosity index to the advertised value on the jug. While it is great to use an oil that works over a wide temperature range this comes at a cost. These polymers can break down and burn onto engine parts. Also, they don't lubricate. So, what Mitsubishi is indicating by their oil recommendations is that they want owners to use oil containing minimal amounts of this stuff.
#212
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It refers to the amount of polymer added to the oil to raise the viscosity index to the advertised value on the jug. While it is great to use an oil that works over a wide temperature range this comes at a cost. These polymers can break down and burn onto engine parts. Also, they don't lubricate. So, what Mitsubishi is indicating by their oil recommendations is that they want owners to use oil containing minimal amounts of this stuff.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 3, 2010 at 08:12 AM.
#213
This thread is nuts I never heard of this before if it was like this then almost every turbo from the factory would have blown and there would have been a factory recall on the use of mobil 1 oil..I agree that mobil 1 is not what it once was, there have lowed the zinc levels a good amount but for some reason the 0w 40 still has a decent amount in it..
Last edited by toysgetsmoked; Oct 3, 2010 at 08:07 AM.
#214
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The Mobil1 0W-40 automotive oil is labeled, "European Formula". It has a higher Zinc content as does the Mobil1 15W-50. If you compare the specs on the back of the different Mobil1 oils you'll see that European Formula 0W-40 is rated SJ, and meets Porsche Factory specs as well. The other Mobil1 oils such as 5W-30, 0W-30, and 5W-40 are SM rated and do not receive Porsche approval.
Now, I realize that we drive Evos, not Porsches...But, I just can't help but notice the difference.
Now, I realize that we drive Evos, not Porsches...But, I just can't help but notice the difference.
Last edited by sparky; Oct 3, 2010 at 08:53 AM.
#215
Evolved Member
Multigrade motor oils formulated with wider spreads such as a 5W-50, a 10W-60, or my own favorite, 0W-40, will necessarily contain a higher amount of the polymer additives, or non-lubricant viscosity extenders, per quart, than multigrades with a narrower spread such as 10W-30. Is this correct?
Mitsubishi recommends 10W-30 rather than the more popular 5W-30 and 20W-40 rather than the the available 10W-40 for my Evo 8. So, this leads me to believe the Mitsu engineers are recommended we avoid oil with large amounts of viscosity indexers.
#216
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And I'd thought we'd established that the pre "W" number was a cold pouring index and not a cold/ambient temperature viscosity number .
I'd be very interested to know if the base stock of the true synthetic group 4 oils varies in formulation to get the 100 degrees centigrade viscosity rating . What this would prove is whether the manufacturers are using the same base stock in all their group 4 oils and changing the 100 degrees centigrade rating with additives , my gut feeling is not but that's hardly conclusive evidence .
Like the fella who likes Amsol I'm suspicious about pricing because when it suddenly gets cheap , everywhere , I smell a rat because discounting can't be only be on price . And the price of the same brand of "group 4" synthetic oils can vary widely . Like I mentioned earlier I was bitten years ago when the formulation of Pensol GT mineral changed here in Australia and it damaged a billet cam and rockers I had in an old Nissan OHC L series engine I had .
At the same time this oil suddenly became available in metric containers instead of the US ones sold previously . It was never able to be proved but we suspect the oil was arriving into Aus and being blended with some low grade rubbish and big cams and rockers were suddenly being damaged . In hindsight I think its possible that the ZDDP levels suddenly dropped and the big lobes were beyond what the "green" oil could cope with . Using imported Kendal GT at the time was the answer . This was back in the early mid 1990s BTW .
A .
I'd be very interested to know if the base stock of the true synthetic group 4 oils varies in formulation to get the 100 degrees centigrade viscosity rating . What this would prove is whether the manufacturers are using the same base stock in all their group 4 oils and changing the 100 degrees centigrade rating with additives , my gut feeling is not but that's hardly conclusive evidence .
Like the fella who likes Amsol I'm suspicious about pricing because when it suddenly gets cheap , everywhere , I smell a rat because discounting can't be only be on price . And the price of the same brand of "group 4" synthetic oils can vary widely . Like I mentioned earlier I was bitten years ago when the formulation of Pensol GT mineral changed here in Australia and it damaged a billet cam and rockers I had in an old Nissan OHC L series engine I had .
At the same time this oil suddenly became available in metric containers instead of the US ones sold previously . It was never able to be proved but we suspect the oil was arriving into Aus and being blended with some low grade rubbish and big cams and rockers were suddenly being damaged . In hindsight I think its possible that the ZDDP levels suddenly dropped and the big lobes were beyond what the "green" oil could cope with . Using imported Kendal GT at the time was the answer . This was back in the early mid 1990s BTW .
A .
#217
It just cracks me up when "vendors" for oil companies get on here and respond, and when things don't go their way they get butt hurt. You know, Mits puts the Label of Mobil 1 on the oil cap. mmmm SO?? Did they pay millions for that? I don't think so. I give Mits more credit than "some" people on here. Does Recaro Pay Mits to put their seats in our Evo? Does Brembo pay Mits to put their brakes on our Evo? Did Momo Pay Mits to put their name on the steering wheel? BBS? I mean I can go on and on.
Bottom line is this, and amsoil and ALL oil companies would agree that If you use Mobil 1 or ANY Name Brand Synthetic oil in your evo, weather you race it, beat it up, whatever, but you change the oil frequently and keep up on maintenance, I SERIOUSLY doubt that Mobil 1 would EVER cause a mechanical failure due to lubrication problems. EVER!
Its all smoke and Mirrors folks...all smoke and mirrors.
Im not saying Mobil 1 is the best, or amsoil is the best, hell, I had an 84 Corolla that I put over 330,000 miles on and NEVER had one mechanical failure while using an oil called Wolfs Head. Many probably have never heard of it, but do I say its the Best oil? or Did I just maintain the car? Or could it be that Toyota just built a hell of a car??
Anywazy, whatever OIL you use, Just keep the oil clean, use synthetics for your turbo car (unless your a vendor who builds motors after every meet) and you will be fine. Like Flavor Flav always says...."Dont, Dont Believe the Hype!!!"
Bottom line is this, and amsoil and ALL oil companies would agree that If you use Mobil 1 or ANY Name Brand Synthetic oil in your evo, weather you race it, beat it up, whatever, but you change the oil frequently and keep up on maintenance, I SERIOUSLY doubt that Mobil 1 would EVER cause a mechanical failure due to lubrication problems. EVER!
Its all smoke and Mirrors folks...all smoke and mirrors.
Im not saying Mobil 1 is the best, or amsoil is the best, hell, I had an 84 Corolla that I put over 330,000 miles on and NEVER had one mechanical failure while using an oil called Wolfs Head. Many probably have never heard of it, but do I say its the Best oil? or Did I just maintain the car? Or could it be that Toyota just built a hell of a car??
Anywazy, whatever OIL you use, Just keep the oil clean, use synthetics for your turbo car (unless your a vendor who builds motors after every meet) and you will be fine. Like Flavor Flav always says...."Dont, Dont Believe the Hype!!!"
Last edited by Jeffs2006EVOIX; Oct 3, 2010 at 09:27 PM.
#218
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So this article from Hot Rod magazine is all hype???
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
I realize our engines don't have flat tappet cams but when I see an oil do this from not enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), I prefer not to run it my built Evo. But thats my decision. Please keep running your oil you like if you're happy with it. You're not going to change my opinion of oil with the GF-4 spec. IMO any oil with GF-4 sucks.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
I realize our engines don't have flat tappet cams but when I see an oil do this from not enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), I prefer not to run it my built Evo. But thats my decision. Please keep running your oil you like if you're happy with it. You're not going to change my opinion of oil with the GF-4 spec. IMO any oil with GF-4 sucks.
#219
EvoM Guru
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Is it all hype? No. But does it apply directly to us? No. Where the Hot Rod article applies and what we work with are apples and oranges.
I may have said this before, but we don't have flat tappet cams. We don't have shim and bucket valvetrains either. We don't have iron faced components rubbing against each other at high pressure loads. Instead, we have relatively cushy hydraulic tappets and roller rockers, which is why we are relatively unaffected. If you're concerned, get an analysis and monitor the rate of ZDDP uptake. We aren't having valvetrain issues.
Also worthy of note is the fact that JAMA was the driving force behind the latest GF-4 standards. I feel I need not explain the significance of that.
I may have said this before, but we don't have flat tappet cams. We don't have shim and bucket valvetrains either. We don't have iron faced components rubbing against each other at high pressure loads. Instead, we have relatively cushy hydraulic tappets and roller rockers, which is why we are relatively unaffected. If you're concerned, get an analysis and monitor the rate of ZDDP uptake. We aren't having valvetrain issues.
Also worthy of note is the fact that JAMA was the driving force behind the latest GF-4 standards. I feel I need not explain the significance of that.
#220
So this article from Hot Rod magazine is all hype???
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
I realize our engines don't have flat tappet cams but when I see an oil do this from not enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), I prefer not to run it my built Evo. But thats my decision. Please keep running your oil you like if you're happy with it. You're not going to change my opinion of oil with the GF-4 spec. IMO any oil with GF-4 sucks.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
I realize our engines don't have flat tappet cams but when I see an oil do this from not enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), I prefer not to run it my built Evo. But thats my decision. Please keep running your oil you like if you're happy with it. You're not going to change my opinion of oil with the GF-4 spec. IMO any oil with GF-4 sucks.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
#221
Evolving Member
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Here a nice PDF of ALL the M-1 oils and there makeup
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
Phos: 1100 Zinc: 1200, is the best choice The only oil that adds better protection is the 15w-50 which i feel is too thick and not needed unless you're building a monster.
So, like I said before: 5w-40 FTMFW!!!
#222
It just cracks me up when "vendors" for oil companies get on here and respond, and when things don't go their way they get butt hurt. You know, Mits puts the Label of Mobil 1 on the oil cap. mmmm SO?? Did they pay millions for that? I don't think so. I give Mits more credit than "some" people on here. Does Recaro Pay Mits to put their seats in our Evo? Does Brembo pay Mits to put their brakes on our Evo? Did Momo Pay Mits to put their name on the steering wheel? BBS? I mean I can go on and on.
Bottom line is this, and amsoil and ALL oil companies would agree that If you use Mobil 1 or ANY Name Brand Synthetic oil in your evo, weather you race it, beat it up, whatever, but you change the oil frequently and keep up on maintenance, I SERIOUSLY doubt that Mobil 1 would EVER cause a mechanical failure due to lubrication problems. EVER!
Its all smoke and Mirrors folks...all smoke and mirrors.
Im not saying Mobil 1 is the best, or amsoil is the best, hell, I had an 84 Corolla that I put over 330,000 miles on and NEVER had one mechanical failure while using an oil called Wolfs Head. Many probably have never heard of it, but do I say its the Best oil? or Did I just maintain the car? Or could it be that Toyota just built a hell of a car??
Anywazy, whatever OIL you use, Just keep the oil clean, use synthetics for your turbo car (unless your a vendor who builds motors after every meet) and you will be fine. Like Flavor Flav always says...."Dont, Dont Believe the Hype!!!"
Bottom line is this, and amsoil and ALL oil companies would agree that If you use Mobil 1 or ANY Name Brand Synthetic oil in your evo, weather you race it, beat it up, whatever, but you change the oil frequently and keep up on maintenance, I SERIOUSLY doubt that Mobil 1 would EVER cause a mechanical failure due to lubrication problems. EVER!
Its all smoke and Mirrors folks...all smoke and mirrors.
Im not saying Mobil 1 is the best, or amsoil is the best, hell, I had an 84 Corolla that I put over 330,000 miles on and NEVER had one mechanical failure while using an oil called Wolfs Head. Many probably have never heard of it, but do I say its the Best oil? or Did I just maintain the car? Or could it be that Toyota just built a hell of a car??
Anywazy, whatever OIL you use, Just keep the oil clean, use synthetics for your turbo car (unless your a vendor who builds motors after every meet) and you will be fine. Like Flavor Flav always says...."Dont, Dont Believe the Hype!!!"
#223
W
Hmmm.. That is honestly an apples to thermonuclear device comparison. Flat tappet cams are VERY different.
So this article from Hot Rod magazine is all hype???
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
I realize our engines don't have flat tappet cams but when I see an oil do this from not enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), I prefer not to run it my built Evo. But thats my decision. Please keep running your oil you like if you're happy with it. You're not going to change my opinion of oil with the GF-4 spec. IMO any oil with GF-4 sucks.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
I realize our engines don't have flat tappet cams but when I see an oil do this from not enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), I prefer not to run it my built Evo. But thats my decision. Please keep running your oil you like if you're happy with it. You're not going to change my opinion of oil with the GF-4 spec. IMO any oil with GF-4 sucks.
#224
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iTrader: (299)
this thread is to educate about different oils and for the most part it has kept its standing with some smart people, and if you like to run your mouth about our product then you need to look for a different place to do so.
Last edited by apagan01; Oct 4, 2010 at 03:40 PM.
#225
The Mobil 1 Chart was very informative good job on that one guys Indeed it looks like the best bang for the buck would be the 0-40 or the 5-50 or 15-50.
Seems the 0-40 is the best "all around" oil from this particular brand. Even for lightly modified to modified class it should still sufice.
I think this thread should be re named because its VERY missleading by title alone.
Seems the 0-40 is the best "all around" oil from this particular brand. Even for lightly modified to modified class it should still sufice.
I think this thread should be re named because its VERY missleading by title alone.