- ^ very true, regarding the first statement.

- Yes I have. Again if you want some logs, ask.... And running a "non-pressurized" system is just what happens when you run Evans coolant.. Read up. Technically there's no conversion involved (un-pressurized cap and such), but this coolant was designed and is used for "non-pressurized" cooling systems.


Read

- If you don't believe my word, look specifically at post # 12,, cfdfireman1... There is many instances scattered across teh internets, where people have had poor results when attempting to switch to this stuff.. I don't know why you persist in arguing. I'm just saying, the cost-benefit ratio is poor... Please go ahead and try it your self, but why fix something that's not broke?

 

you mean everything was the same, thermostat etc but it just plain ran hot?



Reposting this since it was on a page end - second e-mail response from Evans Tech after being asked for clarification:


Like I said earlier.................without having all pertinent information about our coolant, many would-be cooling experts will tell you that our coolant runs hotter than water.
Will water be a better dissipation source than our coolant? yes it will. We do not dispute that. But water will still boil at 212 DegF....our boiling point is 375. and the motor can run at hotter temps all day long with our coolant with no problems. I have guys running 230 deg all day with our coolant and they are fully aware of how ours works and they are fine with it.
To make a long story short...................I tell all my customers wanting to run our coolant that if the motor does not run hot now, running our coolant , the temp will be the same. If the motor runs hot and thinking our coolant will cure the overheating problem is not what you want to do. We work with any customer who has an overheating problem and try to get them under control before using ours.
I tell all my customers that I cannot tell you where the temps will be..........they can run the same as with water, they can be cooler or they may even run hotter. Way too many variables for me to pinpoint where it will run.
Too many car guys out there do not do the main thing you need to do if you plan or are already making more HP then stock..................GET A BIGGER TUBE RADIATOR!!!. A stock radiator will only cool stock HP. You make more power, you make more heat. That heat needs to be cooled and usually a stock rad will not do the job.
As far as running lower pressure, you can but it is not necessary. Our coolant does not generate pressure. The only thing making pressure within the coolg system with our coolant is the water pump and that will only be maybe 2-4 lbs. But if you have a 14-15 lb cap on the system, it's still not a problem.

 

^ thanks for posting that Kyoo. Very informative, right from the source. I ran the same thermostat, radiator, BUT not a pressurized cap aka stripped out old rad cap.. But now from reading your response from Evans, that wasn't necessarily needed.. So my results may have differed from one running a pressurized cap, but it seems that running the pressurized cap or not doesnt seem to skew the results. As Evans noted. The only pressure generated in the system, would of been from my water pump. I DID run hotter, like I said before, temps increased marginally ~5%, overall.. Which equates to about ~10* F. Which isn't much, but I bought my car with Evans waterless coolant and I switched it out because I track my car frequently.. Water and Redline water wetter is what I use for everything, and it complies to track rules that forbid the use of coolant or Ethylene / Propylene glycol based coolants. Since its very slippery stuff.. Which, Evans has both.

 

thanks. even though they say there should be no heat difference (in theory), it seems the heat differences are real. did you notice it on the coolant temp in the dash or did you have specific gauges monitoring all of that?

the heat differences concern me, but at the same time corrosion concerns me a little more - especially given the nature of my (new) evo - 2006 w/ 23k miles, I may want to look into all of this. just need to look further into the heat difference.

I'm still confused as to WHY the coolant runs hotter ceteris paribus, even just a little, doesn't make sense to me - i.e., under highway cruising circumstances. is this evans coolant retaining more heat than normal coolant/water, and it's just above the threshold of what the radiator can handle in terms of dispersing it? while normal coolant and water are under that threshold? i'm thinking the heat dispersement must be pretty damn poor compared to even normal coolant if you're seeing increased coolant temps under same conditions

 

Water is one of the best fluids to manage heat, due to it's higher "heat capacity".. Water has the ability to withstand higher thresholds of heat capacity, therefore its better at managing heat.. Coolant was designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, prevent freezing, or even to relieve some surface tension of water,not neccessarily to cool the motor. I understand how it increases the boiling point, but that does not help motors that were designed and engineered to run at say, 180* F.. What good does it do running at 200* F, including the temp fluctuations of about ~20% from that 200*F mark? Like when at the track or in traffic with the a/c on full blast.. If you really need to raise the boiling point of whatever Koolaid you got in the cooling system, get a higher rated PSI radiator cap.

 

why would it run at 200* or whatever, if the thermostat and radiator etc. were designed to run at 180*, unless the coolant were significantly worse at dispersing heat? and if that is the case, what stops it from just plain shooting up as the car was ran hotter and hotter? i thought the thermostat was in place to regulate the temperature? even for regular coolant and water, temperature is maintained until basically the system is overwhelmed and then it just shoots up. don't get why evans would operate differently than that, except for being terrible at dispersing heat?

there must be something basic i'm not understanding.

 

I only said that 200*F in theory, to use as an example. By in my case the marginal increase was small, maybe insignificant. So instead of running at 180*F around town, I was at around 189*F-190*F. I am no chemical or fluid dynamics engineer, all of my info is based fom experience or from valid sources.. Again, I am no expert on fluid dynamics. But I think, again I think, based on the data shown from other people's experiences and my own, this stuff does run hotter. The only explanation I can give is that water has a better ability than say Evans due to its higher thresholds of heat capacity, and it's ability to manage heat better than 100% coolant or in this case Evans coolant.. Or it's ability to manage "stressing" situations better. I saw this term thrown around loosely in a mechanical engineer's thesis concerning fluid dynamics. Hopefully an engineer of this nature can offer some insight on this topic.

 

get some consistent answers. Tell me more about your "stripped out old rad cap". Did you run the expansion tank with it?

Why fix something that's not broke? I think the standard cooling system is broke, I've replaced more than one rotten radiator more than a few water pumps and a bunch of hoses that went bad from the inside out.

 

The "stripped out rad cap" came with my car, and all that means is it wasnt pressure sensitive, or had no spring/ seal that would push over flow out... Also the previous owner did have a overflow tank, even though it wasn't necessarily required. Since it has an almost unreachable boiling point for most modern engines. Even though it does boil until 350*F +, I wouldnt want my engine to get remotely close to those temps. Its like getting a twin disk clutch, because your single disk blows out after 5 launchs.. Which was designed inherently, to save the rest of your drivetrain.. So why do people run twin-disks with sub 400hp power outputs? i dont know, beats me.. The drivetrain (ie transfer case, tranny etc..) is far more expensive than a clutch. Your just circumventing the problem, nah mean? Just trying to make some sense, with these comparisons lol they might not be the best..

Did you have a chance to check that link out? Thats the best discussion ive found that revolves around Evans waterless coolant. I think because Evans "waterless" coolant is so expensive or more expensive than the standard 50/50 mix, misleads some of the general consensus that this product outperforms conventional coolant/ conventional cooling systems.

 

Its all give and take. No one mentioned the fact that while it might be ok for your engine to run hotter, your engine oil will pick up some of that heat, so now you are working your engine oil system. These are all things you need to consider. The engine can take the heat, but all the sensors and rubber hoses and wiring harnesses probably aren't gonna last as long with the added radiant heat. my 02

 

right, i'm just saying that it doesnt make sense for there to be any deviation - i understand water having better heat capacity, but even 100% coolant should run at the standard operating temperature, so i'm confused why the evans would run hotter, unless, as i stated, its specific heat is much much worse


**btw, while you were running hotter, did you notice any movement on the coolant temp gauge in the cluster or did you have separate measurement? i'm assuming you have separate, since that thing doesn't really move unless temps deviate quite far

 

I think the expansion tank is pretty important if for nothing else but to keep any air out of the system. Air bubbles = cavitation. I wonder if the lack of any pressure could somehow affect the temps?

 

pv = nrt right? so with less pressure, there should be lower temps right?

just kidding.. kind of

 

pV = nRT works for gasses not so sure about liquids. Can you compress a liquid? :-p

 

I absolutely agree with that. While using the stuff I was able to log coolant temps but didn't log oil. I remember my oil temp while running around town was 80*C (have MR gauge cluster) vs the usual 75*C... I was eyeballing the gauge, so that information is kinda useless. But your right, I feel the extra heat would accelerate wear on seals and rubber parts, such as the coolant hoses. Also no one ever mentioned if the heater core and HVAC system could be affected.. But I don't know about that either.