I agree, I would ALWAYS run an overflow tank regardless of the fluid being used for coolant. Necessary in all cooling systems, pressurized, semi pressurized or not pressurized IMO. But as we know, no pressure is need for Evans coolant due to its already high boiling point (350*F +).. That link I posted previously, one poster mentioned having no pressure in your cooling system would actually REDUCE cavitation. But I don't quite understand the logic behind that, because I also thought a pressurized system would be more efficient in terms of keeps the flow LPH up/ pressure, thus reducing cavitation.

 

I guess given that our cars, and many others run this hotter, while some don't etc., I would assume that is just over the threshold of what the stock evo radiator can handle, and that a larger radiator would run the coolant at the same temperature as a different cooler.

This could potentially explain why other cars don't/aren't expected to run hotter - the potential heat dispersion by the radiator is much higher than the heat the coolant generates, and so running something that doesnt disperse heat as well doesn't matter, because the radiator can still get rid of that heat to regulate the temp to what the stock thermostat is looking for?

Then again, if this coolant isn't able to disperse heat to what the stock setup can handle, then it should jsut continue to get hotter and hotetr until it overheats..

 

Good info, ill be sure to use this as well!

 

bump, still confused on this point.. why would any fluid you run as a coolant run hotter that what the thermostat dictates, unless it simply can't disperse the heat? And if that's the only reason, I'm confused as to why this coolant would even "work" period

 

The thermostat in the evo is gonna keep the coolant in the engine until about 170 deg F or so, when it begins to open. The thermostat will fully open around 190 deg F. Its also designed to allow the engine to warm up as fast is possible for emission purposes, and for a proper running engine as well.

Once the engine warms up and its in its range, the thermostat will regulate temps by shutting or opening more to try and maintain the desired temps. The thermostat will fully open at ~190 deg F. Once its fully open and the coolant is drawing out heat from the engine its the radiators job to try and keep those temps as close to the 190 range as much as possible. Its not that big of deal to be right at 190 as long as it doesn't go to say 225 or higher.

THe coolant runs hotter temps than the thermostat because the thermostat regulates flow. Its rated that at such temp it will be open this much. Its job is to regulate flow depending on the temps, BUT its the radiators job to cool down the coolant temps as effictiently as possible. THe radiator also has a back up if it gets heat soaked and that would be the fans.

The thermostat doesn't dictate what the coolant temps are, but what it does is react to the coolant temps by either opening more or closing more-- keeping coolant in the engine more or circulating coolant through the system more.

 

thanks - so, going along with this, there is no reason this coolant should be running hotter than ~190 unless it's overwhelming the radiator, correct? If it's running hotter than normal coolant, the thermostat must be open all the time, constantly circulating coolant, but still can't keep up with the lack of heat dispersion?

or is it that normal coolant runs too "cold"? but even if that were the case, the thermostat would keep it in the engine until it got hot, then circulate out etc..

this goes back to what I was saying.. which is that i dont understand how a coolant can run hot unless it's overwhelming the radiator?

 

Well idk if I would look at it as much as the thermostat 'circulating' the coolant, that's more of the water pumps job, but It certainly does permit the flow throughout the system, sort of like a door if you will.

The coolant is always picking up heat from the engine, so the coolant is gonna just keep getting hotter and hotter. The thermostat is designed to allow full system flow at that given temp, for the sake of argument we will say 190 deg F. So at 190 deg F, the thermostat is fully open allowing all the coolant to flow freely. THe coolant is still picking up more and more heat but its just allowed to flow completely unrestricted now. If, lets say the coolant dropped to 160 deg F, then the thermostat will close more, or completely, to "regulate" the temp to bring it back up.

Now because all the thermostat can do is allow full coolant flow, there has to be backup systems to help regulate temps from skyrocketing to un safe levels, and that's where radiators, fans, and pressurized systems come into play.

In my evo, with stock coolant system, I was seeing about ~200 deg F when I had to use it to commute. When temps would go up past that you could hear the fans come on until temps dropped back down to what it wanted. These are the redundant systems to help keep it in check.

Keep in mind, your thermostat opens fully at a certain temp, its also progressive. It starts to open way below that, so its range of opening is like ~20 or so degrees. LIke I said, iirc when I tested my thermostat is was around the 190 mark fully open, maybe even 195 or so. I think the engine fans don't come on till a bit later like 205-210 ish. So these numbers are off the top of my head so there not EXACT, but point Im trying to make is that you have a large temp range even from when the thermostat is fully open.

Now, fwiw, I have seen thermostats stick fully open and cause engine temps to not go above 170 even after running for an hour. I guess if the coolant temps don't initially buildup in the engine and just are allowed to flow freely when its cold, most coolant systems are too efficient to allow them to ever really get to warmup. Just another thought to confuse you more now,.

 

right, that's what i meant. so i guess your point is that there's going to be operating temperature variance, and this coolant simply (by people's experience) runs hotter, but well within what the factory is designed to accept as normal.

I was just kind of thinking that the temps would more or less fall in a fairly narrow range, where fans come coolant circulates more when hot, and vice versa when it gets cooler, etc. going up, going down, on and on.

i mean really, if this coolant gets hotter than what the motor is designed for, it will do what it needs to to cool it. otherwise, this coolant is going to run around the designed temperature. 190 deg w/ this coolant is the same as 190 deg with another, and thermostat etc will operate in the same manner...

 

That seems about right. I think that the thing to remember is that if this stuff makes your coolant temps run hotter than the oem stuff, then the radiant heat will effect other things like engine oil temps, increased heat on seals,gaskets, rubber hoses, etc. Like was said earlier, the a/c system may not work optimally if the coolant temps get too high.

 

right, but i thought the point of what we were saying was that it won't run hotter than normal coolant, or at least fall in the normal range of temps.. if it gets too hot the thermostat will open, coolant will flow and etc. right? 190 w/ this stuff is the same as 190 in water, in jello, whatever. it'll be forced to flow and cool, and do so until it does.

it's not like the system is run on a timer, like gives the coolant five minutes to cool down again before closing, it's run by the thermostat based on the real time temperature..

 

been using that in my race car,works great

 

shed some light - that's what we've been talking about this whole time - does it run hot in normal operation?? compared to regular coolant

 

I'll be converting to tap water (per AMSoil instructions) and Dominator® Coolant Boost for my 2013 track days. I researched this and realized that I was following corrosion prevention advice not track advice.
Dominator® Coolant Boost lets me address both during warm weather. For winter when the "cars" are stored, I'll run 40% Dexcool and 60% water till the next track day rolls around.

Have a track day planned for 3/23/13 so I'll see how Dominator® Coolant Boost works.

I'll evaluate using Evans Coolant for my 2004 Dodge Cummins Diesel. Props to FlyingScot for posting the Lenos garage link.

 

I had to see the Amsoil site for myself to believe this. I find the non-distilled water requirement when using straight Cooland Boost pretty wierd. Tap water is full of ions that are perfect for setting up a corrosion cell. I may have to call Amsoil to find out what they are thinking.

 

I also found that weird and checked Amsoils' site, to confirm what Apagon01 said. I have always used distilled water, because of the same concerns you had...

Can we get a general consensus or more opinions on distilled water vs tap/filtered water? Which is better? I think this information would be beneficial to this thread