My friend was having a weird issue with his tial q it came with a 10 psi spring in it and when he was on the stock maf the check engine light came on..

I told him to put in a 11 psi spring in it and the light went away then he put back the 10 psi spring and the light came back..

The question is if he puts a lighter spring back on s.d will the light come back on again and will it affect the tune???????

 

I say just stay with the 11psi spring if it keeps the light off and sell me the 10psi?

 

i bet it was staying opened too long or opening too soon causing the problem i would keep the 11 psi spring in it and call it a day , does it whistle like its leaking ?

 

Its not leaking it's rare for a tial to leak the springs stiffness has nothing to dues with the bov holding boost it just makes it react faster..So what should he do can tial please chime in!!!!!

 

does it run better with the 10 or 11psi spring regardless of the check engine light

 

stock MAF you need to use a spring that keeps the bov closed at idle, or use the QR, on SD it won't matter as the air will be metered after the BOV.

if it goes away with the -11psi spring, use that - the -10 is probably hanging open at idle and decel and throwing a code

 

ok i have a question for you guys at tial i have the tial 50mm bov that is vented and when i get on it i hear a lot of fluttering and i think i have the black spring in mine not sure though. anyways what spring do you recommend?

 

Have you had the car on the dyno to make sure the bov is actually opening the the noise your hearing isn't the turbo trying to spin backwards??

 

OP....Have you guys tried scanning the code? I will bet $$ its P0121, TPS code...If you search, myself and a lot of other people have had this problem with the Tial Q and stock maf...11 psi will make the check engine light not come back on but there is a good chance the bov may not even be opening...What is your buddy's vacuum at idle? Did he use the chart on Tial website to pick the spring or did he just order the 10 psi spring? I suggest making sure the bov is actually opening with the 11 psi spring...If not, make up some shims for the 10 psi spring...

I am definitely not an expert on the Tial bovs but over the last couple months I have been going through a lot of trial and error with them...I've swapped 3 different springs, changed vacuum line sizes, eliminated any Ts in the bov vacuum line, added shims to the 8 psi black spring....check out the last couple pages on the build thread...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ktech-etc.html

 

i know its not the turbo because when we turned up the boost from 19-20 to 23-24 it started doing it. also when the fluttering starts we can still feel the boost increasing but the bov flutters

 

it's not the bov unless there is a leak in the line or you are running a line that is too restrictive (if this is the case, it would only happen for a split second)

 

The bov opens fine but it doesn't react lighting fast. I told him to leave it alone and so did his tuner the car is on s.d now so I guess if he changed the spring to Softer spring it would be fine.I went for a ride with him today and it has a slight flutter in the low rpms with 1 to 3 psi but after that it bows off clean I think he wanted it to be louder that's why he wanted to change it.

 

keep the 11 psi spring in. thats what i did.

 

I have the black spring in mine, running SD I am gettin a strange whistle sound at part throttle. I do not have any flutter issues. How can I get rid of the whistle noise? Do I need a stronger spring?