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for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues

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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 01:09 AM
  #481  
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From: PA
Originally Posted by evodan2004
your car has a colostomy bag. it totally **** its self. you need to slow down and stop scaring people. haha.

its better to be in that bag then in the motor. glad its working man. nice review for sure.
LOL. those are from a random UPS packaging haha.. i figured why not put them to use. i think my car got scared on the dyno and **** its pants.

ya i cant imagine all that oil getting into the intake manifold.. that would not be very efficient.

next time i empty the can tho i will drive the car and get it up to operating temps.. i think it will come out much quicker since it will be runnier once heated up.. it took me 30min for that crap to come out.. i felt stupid sitting there waiting for it to come out i wanted to rip the can off the car and drop kick it.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 01:12 AM
  #482  
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From: PA
Originally Posted by n2oiroc
btw, picked up a pair of allstar cans and the baffling in them looks great! i had a moroso before that worked good and the baffling wasnt nearly as good as these. they are under $70 each too!



i think ams sells those same cans so i imagine they work pretty well.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 06:44 AM
  #483  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by RSMike
You'll try have to try yours and see what it does.
If it is a problem, you can just block that line off and run the two stock lines off the head.
Maybe with the angle i've put my ports into the block they perfectly line up with oil being flung off the crank... I'm not sure.
Not trying to put a downer on your ideas, just letting you know what i've found.

Cheers, Mike
I appreciate the input, i would rather find out now and work out a solution while its out of the car.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #484  
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From: milwaukee, wi
so here is what i was thinking. turn down a piece of 1.625" aluminum tube to a slight press fit into the balance shaft bearings. that gets the vent fittings out of the line of sight of the oil coming off the crank. think it will work? here is a rolled up piece of paper to visualize it. there is at least a .125" air gap min around it.

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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:48 AM
  #485  
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yeah that would work awesome, i think just anything to block the direct "line of sight" of the oil in the sump will solve the problem.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 02:01 PM
  #486  
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why dont more people just drill and tap for an NTP fitting? (maybe it was already covered)

This was a cracked valve cover i had laying around. Wanted to make sure before drilling my good one that it could be done. For about $25 you can buy everything you need to do this. (2-ntp fittings, tap, and drill bit.)











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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 02:06 PM
  #487  
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
We had this same problem recently... we did a number of things to help the issue. Fabbed up a new return line from the DBB Black... basically a -10an line, added the STM vented dipstick and then installed a Spec-Ops Baffled Catch can and completely fixed everything. Filter has no signs of any kind of oil, turbo is not blowing oil out the seals, and the car ran its fastest time to date this past weekend at the track... 10.1 at 133mph
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 02:51 PM
  #488  
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This is what we use. Works fairly well.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #489  
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From: Tampa bay area
Very nice Alpha.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #490  
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From: Union City, CA
Originally Posted by EVOizmm
why dont more people just drill and tap for an NTP fitting? (maybe it was already covered)

This was a cracked valve cover i had laying around. Wanted to make sure before drilling my good one that it could be done. For about $25 you can buy everything you need to do this. (2-ntp fittings, tap, and drill bit.)











I would like to do this, but how do you plan on getting the metal shavings out from the VC behind the baffles.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #491  
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Originally Posted by Migsubishi
Very nice Alpha.
Thanks Miguel
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #492  
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From: Bellevue - Olympia, WA
Originally Posted by tscompusa
So after 1500-2000 miles of brutal slaughter i finally drained can again. and heres what i got;

Keep in mind the car is usually only about 520whp for street usage (35psi), but it did get flogged recently on dyno up to 43psi.

So it looks like my setup works REALLY well.. this is how it should look when its working properly. If you're draining half your damn oil out with your catch can remove it ASAP.

You get this yellow mustard look and fuel in there.. the can wasnt overly full but id say it was atleast half full with this crap. This is with e85 only.

The valve cover to intake tube side was 100% dry. As was the inside of the intake tube.









Where is the outlet hose going into on the intake side of your catch cans? I see the pcv side is between the pcv and manifold. The intake side is between the valve cover and ?? Is it connected to the intake pipe somewhere? Can't really tell.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #493  
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From: PA
air intake tube.. using the turbo as a vacuum source to further suck crankcase pressure. read the thread from first page to end you will learn quite a bit.. i have everything documented in here.

no oil comes out of the valve cover to air intake side, its just there for pressure relieving via turbo vacuum.. as forced performanced suggested i do.. and it fixed my issue 100%.

I had so much blowby the CHRA was leaking oil because the oil was traveling back up the return line.

Last edited by tscompusa; Apr 4, 2012 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #494  
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From: PA
i think something all the T3 turbo kits are missing is a nippleon the intake to reconnect a line to like the stock setup has. i drilled a hole in my intake and mounted a nipple so i can get that vacuum back. i havent seen anyone else running this and once i get other issues fixed im interested in seeing what it changes at boost levels. i have a can between the intake and vc and have yet to need to drain it after 3k miles.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #495  
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From: OKC
My Internet is too slow to read through the whole thread at the moment but I have an STM -6an rear valve cover fitting and some check valves. I'm currently using a new PCV valve but I can still blow through it meaning boost will make it through no problem. These check valves would hold off any amount of boost I throw at it so would I be able to remove the PCV system and just run a check valve from the valve cover to the manifold? Ventilation is well taken care of elsewhere.
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