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for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues

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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:09 AM
  #331  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by 06MREvo
So no check valves on the turbo/maf pipe side? I drew up my catch can setup last night and put 2 1/4" check valves in on the pvc/intake manifold side and 2 3/8" check valves in on the turbo/maf pipe side....sound about right?
no doesn't sound right. just follow my pic where i have them placed and you'll be fine. the one on the intake manifold side is so pressure cant enter into the catch can.

the one in front of the pcv is so if the pcv fails the check valve is a backup wall to block the potential failure.

no need for a check valve on the valve cover to air intake side.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:27 AM
  #332  
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You see any increase in HP with this Catch can setup? or any difference at all besides pressure being down?
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #333  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by LGshow19
You see any increase in HP with this Catch can setup? or any difference at all besides pressure being down?
scroll back a few threads and youll see my initial response.. it did more then i thought it would do.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #334  
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From: pa
also check this out; http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=333816



the mother of all dry sumps.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #335  
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Nice review... ill be doing this once i get the built motor in.

That Dry sump seems pretty rowdy as well, never really read about them though. How much is that Norris built one?
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:10 PM
  #336  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by LGshow19
Nice review... ill be doing this once i get the built motor in.

That Dry sump seems pretty rowdy as well, never really read about them though. How much is that Norris built one?
5k retail price
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #337  
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From: San Antonio
Originally Posted by tscompusa
5k retail price


Good thing im not in need of oil scavenging... Road racing is some pretty serious stuff
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 05:04 AM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
5k retail price
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Road racing is expensive, but the dry sump is far and away the best option for those having oil starvation issues. The Norris design kit is one of the better ones I have seen, but for the street or even mild-medium track use (drag or auto-x) it is overkill, I would try an accusump setup before going to the dry sump if you are having issues.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:54 PM
  #339  
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If you have serious blowby wouldn't this indicate that you have badly seated rings? Block might be in need of another rebuild, this is the correct way to fix blow by issues. Whats your compression? Sorry I didn't read through the whole thread, might have missed some info.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 10:55 PM
  #340  
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From: sc
Originally Posted by tscompusa
Heres a diagram just flipped.. the way the arrows are pointing is the way the check valves should allow pressure to pass.

Also I mentioned what I used in this thread its scattered, but heres exactly what I did.


did you remove the throttle body for instant 500+ HP at all times?
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:31 AM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
did you remove the throttle body for instant 500+ HP at all times?
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:21 AM
  #342  
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TS you dont need the one way valve or pcv in the line from cam cover to can . since you already checked any pressure going in with the check valve in the line from mani to can.

???
fluid and vapours will not flow freely across those valves and even air your trying to vent is having a hard time passing them too!
can 1 needs a vent too
i know you've done lots of searching and lots of input in this thread but that just rubs against MY grain.
wanting to learn what you found to go with that setup

Last edited by leecavturbo; Jan 21, 2011 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:46 AM
  #343  
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Just joking about the TB thing above. About sump venting. I believe it is very important to address as TSCOMP has. Very small inconsistancies in CC pressure can drastically change the health and performance of combustion, turbo, and lubrication. Exp, a + pulse can shove oil out the turbine seal and rings. Too much suction might fight oil pressure. And lack of catch will send oil right into the combustion chamber (esp cyl1) for sudden octane drop.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #344  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
Emissions aside... oil or oil vapor should NOT enter the intact tract at any point.

The crankcase pressure should be reduced as much as possible. The vaporized oil should not be put back into the engine.

If you can do those above... you'll get most of the way there. there are certainly ways to reduce how the crankcase pressure is generated, but that would be a case to case basis.

Good luck.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #345  
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Picked up the SS fitting & check valves and a couple other things from those links you posted Tom. Colling @ Toxicfab will be making me a dual sealed catch can and I may get it coated by TCC also...
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