Have a link to a thread? I didn't see much in this thread about it.

 

I believe it is in this thread somewhere.
Have fun.

 

Don't know if you're building for anything specific or just drag racing, but Vac pumps and exhaust scavengers aren't legal in many classes. Also, unless you have a real crazy build or an endurance car, the basics talked about in this thread will get you 90% of what you could hope for.

 

That's disappointing since I've done what most people in this thread have done and am still getting oil pushed into the compressor housing.

 

What turbo are you running? Have you done a leak down test? Have you logged crankcase pressure?

 

DBB MHI housing FP Red. Leak down was 3-4% on all cylinders, stock motor. I have a oil cap I can drill for a gauge, but I wouldn't be able to log pressure I don't think. I need to seal my catch can and create a better venturi in the intake I think.

 

Yeah, same thing happened when I had the DBB green. If you just seal your catch can and run a line to the intake and I think that will solve your problem.

 

So I did just that, sealed up the catch can and ran a 10AN from it to the intake replacing the small 1/4" vac line I had. See how that works out. Just need some more testing and tuning around with it to solve it.

I assume that's what fixed your issue with the green?

 

I switched to a BBK B BB so I never did that but I have read plenty and talked to FP a few times and that generally fixes the issue.

 

Hey... I am strongly considering the STM Sealed catch can made specifically for the FP turbos. Thoughts? I have the DBB FP Red. Sounds like a good catch can, plug and play.

Just want reviews or comments.

 

This is a direct fix for 99.9% of the people.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...ification.html

We get cars that have so much blowby that as I mentioned in here over and over, will force the oil back up the oil return line into the turbine housing soiling the turbo and burning oil on decell from oil slosh.

Nothing is EVER going to come out of this side port I don't care how bad the engines built. Open one of these valve covers like we have and study the insides once. There's a massive trap baffle in this corner and it has zero oiling issues even if left open and exposed with a huge 5/8" hole on your cover.

I would recommend a filter of some kind over the fitting, or you can just run it back to your intake pipe if you like, but running it straight open to atmosphere with the vehicle left outside will make the cams get mild surface rust on them (which doesn't harm them, but it doesn't look pretty once the covers taken off).

After this key mods done, then you can implement more things if you want additional. This is one of the major keys to eliminating the crankcase pressure.

I started this thread, and believe me I tried everything. So I'm talking from direct experience.

I offer the service for those who don't want to do the mod themselves, but for those who want to do it themselves, I gave enough info with pictures, data, that you're more then welcome to save yourself $ and do it yourself!

Nothing wrong with adding some catch cans to your setup if you want as well.

I don't run anything but the stock PCV system in my evo that goes 148.14 in 1/4 at only 36psi (with a really ****ty piloted driver (me). I have a 150+ street car on a 6466 with ZERO blowby and this is all the modding I did to the crankcase system. It works. My intake manifold is bone dry, along with all air intake related parts.

 

Managed to fit today NPT breather on valve cover to additionally prevent crankcase pressure even tho I already have fitted an -10AN fitting on Block.

 

If I wanted to do an AN fitting on the side of it rather then NPT fitting. What fitting would it be? -10? Should I do a weld in fitting or use a STM push in fitting?

 

I just went with the STM -6 on driver side and -10 on rear. Easy, clean, and about 450% more breathing that factory setup if looking at vent area alone.

 

Buy a -10 AN fitting and 1/2" NPT thread on the other side. Thread to 1/2" NPT like the guy up there did, and install.



So I've put 3 or 4 hundred more miles on my car. I've sealed the catch can. I ditched the venturi fitting in the intake I tried to make since it didn't seem to work at all. I put the PCV system back to stock. I sealed my PCV system catch can and am thinking of reinstalling that to see if that helps. I have modified the catch can to accept the factory PCV check valve. The current setup would run a sealed can with a -10AN fitting to the can from the valve cover, and then factory check valve and vacuum line to the intake manifold.

I am considering switching to a lighter oil as well. Might that eliminate a bit of the problem? I currently run 20w50 Brad Penn (what my tuner recommended, and to be fair probably for drag strip racing, not primarily daily driving like I do) and it rarely gets fully up to temperature with my around the town driving- since the car is a DD. I was thinking that perhaps the lower oil pressure when the car is cold/oil is cold by swapping to a lighter weight oil may aid things a bit...

Still getting oil in the intake with my MHI housing BB red. It's also going in to the LICP, but that's not a surprise or anything.

I have heard rumors that FP has since changed the bearing housing and that this problem is greatly alleviated now. If that's true, I'm pretty tempted to buy a new SS unit and ditch this MHI one.