for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
Whelp there goes that idea. Guess I'll be running an uber long hose to in front of the Turbo. In reading through this thread I've pretty much figured it out......unfortunately I should have finished reading the whole thread before I got all antsy and starting drilling and tapping.
Last edited by Teal2nnr; Jun 27, 2013 at 07:21 PM.
(1) this was your setup and ill explain why it didn't work;
(2) you have the side and rear tapped into the same bottle. then on top of that, you had a 3rd port (outlet) (the black hose) tapped into the air intake pipe. (not in this pic)
(2) why would you even attempt this? did you not realize that oil blowby does accumulate out of the rear (pcv side) and overtime that bottle will fill with oil, and if you have the hose running from the bottle filled with oil, the turbo would suck the oil right into the intake pipe making it a mess.
(3) not to mention, you rely on just that hose to relieve the pressure from that tiny sealed bottle?
(4) of course in that case scenario its going to screw the car up. tune and all.
if you insist on running that bottle, then i'd put a big breather filter on it & open the outlet up more for it to be effective.
in that case though, yes you dont want to run that back to the air intake pipe. it will do nothing but cause problems as you experienced.
if you put a hose from the side valve cover port into the intake pipe you might see the tune won't be affected. its worth a shot. it did not affect mine at all. but never link the rear to the air intake pipe like you tried.
(1) the setup works great both VTA and sealed to intake . doing its job of relieving crankcase pressure and allowing no oil to be introduced back into the engine.
(2) of course i have both lines on valve cover going to my can. thats how you get good pressure release. the third larger line was connected to intake for a sealed system in effect making the two lines even larger by adding suction. It worked absolutely fantastic at solving my oil in the intake pipe pre turbo. I was afraid to even try the system VTA as i spent 3 hours removing the accumulated oil from intercooler and charge pipes. What you DONT understand is the catch can has a COALESCING filter. All oil mist is collected by the filter and turned into large drops that just fall to bottom of cup. ZERO oil comes out my black line, regardless of whether its sealed ot VTA. The can works fantastic no thanks to your advice on how to do it.
(3) more of your theories that are just wrong and untested.
(4) sealed it screws with the tune for the reasons i already stated. the A/F in the crankcase can drastically effect the tune.
bottom line is can works fantastic VTA. not a drop of oil from tube. very little oil accumulation in can. from testing so far it looks like I will need to poor filtered oil back into engine about every 5-6 months. For me this can design is a smashing success.
after 20 days. not much oil accumulation. and ZERO oil moisture from vent tube. its dry as bone.
You really are annoying. You theorize just great while I do actual back to backs and gather real data. What you dont understand about me is I was building fast turbo cars 30 years ago before you even knew what a turbo is.
(1) the setup works great both VTA and sealed to intake . doing its job of relieving crankcase pressure and allowing no oil to be introduced back into the engine.
(2) of course i have both lines on valve cover going to my can. thats how you get good pressure release. the third larger line was connected to intake for a sealed system in effect making the two lines even larger by adding suction. It worked absolutely fantastic at solving my oil in the intake pipe pre turbo. I was afraid to even try the system VTA as i spent 3 hours removing the accumulated oil from intercooler and charge pipes. What you DONT understand is the catch can has a COALESCING filter. All oil mist is collected by the filter and turned into large drops that just fall to bottom of cup. ZERO oil comes out my black line, regardless of whether its sealed ot VTA. The can works fantastic no thanks to your advice on how to do it.
(3) more of your theories that are just wrong and untested.
(4) sealed it screws with the tune for the reasons i already stated. the A/F in the crankcase can drastically effect the tune.
bottom line is can works fantastic VTA. not a drop of oil from tube. very little oil accumulation in can. from testing so far it looks like I will need to poor filtered oil back into engine about every 5-6 months. For me this can design is a smashing success.
after 20 days. not much oil accumulation. and ZERO oil moisture from vent tube. its dry as bone.
(1) the setup works great both VTA and sealed to intake . doing its job of relieving crankcase pressure and allowing no oil to be introduced back into the engine.
(2) of course i have both lines on valve cover going to my can. thats how you get good pressure release. the third larger line was connected to intake for a sealed system in effect making the two lines even larger by adding suction. It worked absolutely fantastic at solving my oil in the intake pipe pre turbo. I was afraid to even try the system VTA as i spent 3 hours removing the accumulated oil from intercooler and charge pipes. What you DONT understand is the catch can has a COALESCING filter. All oil mist is collected by the filter and turned into large drops that just fall to bottom of cup. ZERO oil comes out my black line, regardless of whether its sealed ot VTA. The can works fantastic no thanks to your advice on how to do it.
(3) more of your theories that are just wrong and untested.
(4) sealed it screws with the tune for the reasons i already stated. the A/F in the crankcase can drastically effect the tune.
bottom line is can works fantastic VTA. not a drop of oil from tube. very little oil accumulation in can. from testing so far it looks like I will need to poor filtered oil back into engine about every 5-6 months. For me this can design is a smashing success.
after 20 days. not much oil accumulation. and ZERO oil moisture from vent tube. its dry as bone.
what happens when your filter gets full? it drops into the bottle and collects to the bottom.
mine in 1000 miles of abuse barely accumulated anything and does what i wanted it to do and works.
keeps oil out of the intake mani + relieves all crankcase pressure.
try putting a setup like that on a car making a lot of power that actually has blowby issues and you will be spewing oil all over your injectors / intake mani.
clearly if you were beating on your car and barely nothing came out then you don't have much blowby to begin with.
btw when it was on maf; https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/10049935-post465.html
and no my tune didn't get affected, because i was smart and actually researched what to do and what not to do.
and no my tune didn't get affected, because i was smart and actually researched what to do and what not to do.
again you prove you dont know how my can works. from your pictures your $300 in cans is mixing oil and water, no wonder you have to empty so fast. my $35 setup separates the oil from water allowing the water to evaporate off which allows just reusable oil to collect in the can. I will stick to my design. the filter is NOT filling with oil like you ignorantly theorize.
and as a tuner I wouldnt be so proud of your 525 hp engine blowing that much oil into your cans. blowby problems do come from poor builds or worse poor tuning that kills good ring seal. my car is nothing but beat on with 460whp/430wtq and untouched for 1.5 years now.
Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Jun 28, 2013 at 04:44 AM.
I have a question. When tuning on the dyno my catch cans get no oil in them. When I go to the track I'm filling the cans a good 1/4 quart at a time. Any explanations for that??
Your car doesn't pull g's on the dyno as it's strapped down. On the street it's in motion, g-forces push the oil to the back of the engine and the up whatever it's pushed against. On the dyno the oil is almost stagnant in the engine a side from what pressure and movement the oil pump creates while lubricating everything. This will cause what your explaining.
Your car doesn't pull g's on the dyno as it's strapped down. On the street it's in motion, g-forces push the oil to the back of the engine and the up whatever it's pushed against. On the dyno the oil is almost stagnant in the engine a side from what pressure and movement the oil pump creates while lubricating everything. This will cause what your explaining.
i do not have there specific dip stick. i had one built a while ago. my catch can setup for the dipstick is like this. i removed the PCV valve and run a line from a fitting in its place to the side of the catch can. it has a filter on top and internally baffled. also on the bottom there is a line that runs from the can to the dipstick. about 8 inchs up from the block.
the other catch can i have just has the sides of the valve cover tapped and ran to a can which is vented. but i have to manually drain this one.
The routing wasnt important... When you gun it the g forces slosh the oil back in the pan and then up the tube... I had the same issue and ended up removing it... Mine is the stm tube and the fitting is a few inches from the top... For Years i never had issues with the catch can getting any oil. Put it on and 2 miles into the first drive i was pouring smoke from under the hood... The can filled and dumped oil everywhere...
you don't have to admit my setup worked. its already proven itself to work.
you only had that on the car since may of 2013. put 1500-2000 miles of abuse on it then post back what's in it without touching it.
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my engine new had 155psi across. and 20k miles later it remained 155psi.
same goes for the leakdown test. identical results 20K miles later.
not to mention it was a BR engine, not my own. so take it up with him.
Last edited by tscompusa; Jun 28, 2013 at 06:37 PM.
if you plug that and just run the front driver side that had a hole in it from the factory you won't push any oil at all.