PS: a theory is something you think will happen.. I picked up 4 mph in 1/4 from 4.11's FACT

 

i do not push any oil out of the dipstick setup catch can. well nothing comes out of the breather anyways.

i only push oil threw the side valve cover line's into that catch can. i do understand what your saying.

i get it now. something very simple had me so baffled. thanks a lot. i will cap that off and report back with that happens. also by capping that off i guess i am loosing a source of pressure relief correct? this year i upgraded my lines for -8 to -10.

 

no problem Dan. ya it should fix up your oil issue once you cap that side off. you should be ok with just the front going into the catch can. it should be enough to relieve your crankcase pressure. but you are correct, you're losing that source of pressure relief once thats done.

one big -10 should be plenty though.

 

Tom you have a pm... Please get back to me..


Although I think you might have answered it for evodan.

 

I really dont care that you can setup works or not. I just like my design better.
your setup is twice as bulky with two cans when only one is necessary. You spent a ton of money when mine is dirt cheap. You retain the egr which is just plain stupid for performance car. You only vent from one line on your cover I vent from two. Your can mixes water with the oil so you cant dump it back in the engine. I may be arrogant to you. but i have no problem admitting when someone has a better way to do something. I am just not seeing your setup as any where near better. not even close. I am done here. I will let the blind lead the blind.

 

you're going off a picture that is over a year old. the last setup i had on my car was this;



also. i haven't had a EGR on my evo since 2009, so i don't know where you see a egr valve.

the purpose of my setup was to eliminate crankcase pressure and keep oil out of the intake manifold. and it did just that. so i am happy with it. yes it is bulky and it takes up space, but it works.

my setup is merely the stock side vent in the valve cover enlarged and the rest is OEM style.

all i did was take what was OEM and improve it.

i paid no where near $300 for my catch can setup either.

and also the catch can on the valve cover to intake pipe side has never seen a droplet of oil.

i never drove the car with no PCV so i cant sit here and honestly comment on what it will drive like, but from what ive read and researched, ive decided to keep it there.

at the end of the day the only part of my setup that relieves pressure is the valve cover side port that i enlarged. the rear was just made to catch oil so it dont get in the intake manifold.

 

So with the valve cover vented to ATM at the breather nipple (PCV still hooked up), crankcase pressure was essentially the same as before - peaking at about 2.2 psi.

Baro readings indicate only about -1 psi vacuum in the intake pipe at peak suction (WOT, max air flow).

 

I was referring to the factory PCV valve that is part of EGR system. it reburns the exhaust gas that gets into crankcase. you are still using that (only improved ) and it makes no sense to do so. you can take that can off your car because it is doing nothing to relieve crankcase pressure.

 

running an exhaust oil evac will cause the oil to get gummed up in the muffler and cause a fire? I call b.s.

 

thats where you're wrong. by removing the pcv you are sacrificing driveability and vacuum part throttle.

you seen what came out of that catch can. if i remove the can and connect the pcv back to the intake manifold that will go in the intake manifold.

So yes the catch can is doing what its supposed to, catching the blowby so it doesn't enter the intake manifold. thats what they are supposed to do.

The catch can between the valve cover and intake pipe can be eliminated yes.

-----------------------------

Look at this page

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html

My setup is

"PCV Setup #1 – The Improved Factory Setup"

It even says "The diagram below shows this improved version of the factory PCV system. This arrangement is the ideal setup for most street and part-time track DSMs. "



i hope you do realize and understand the main purpose of a catch can is not to relieve pressure its to catch blowby and trap oil from entering somewhere you don't want it to be.

there are multiple purposes for a catch can and i'm utilizing the most important function of it by keeping oil from getting into my intake manifold.

The only catch can helping relieve crankcase pressure is the one attached to the turbo, which honestly doesn't even need to be there. i could connect the valve cover directly to the intake pipe because nothing comes out of that outlet. i never got a drop of oil out of that can.

Read what he says about deleting a PCV valve

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152865548-post5.html

My entire setup was most likely based around that post. and the guy who posted it did a lot of research and development and sells catch cans as well.

 

Just got my smc can ill be putting it in

 

The PCV system has two purposes.

1. to catch unburnt blowby gases in the crankcase and reburn them to be environmentally friendly.

2. At WOT, crankcase pressure is sucked into the air intake. When the throttle plate is abruptly closed and the air intake loses its vacuum properties, the PCV opens to continue to assist in removing built-up crankcase pressure.

VTA systems can work as long as there is enough venting to not allow pressure to actually build up. This can be very challenging without adding sizable vents when running a built block with a fair amount of blow-by (i.e; Buschur blocks).

Using a sealed system is helpful because it doesn't require as much venting but the trick to to have enough vacuum to actually overcome the crankcase pressure. As MrFred just mentioned, there may not be as much vacuum on the air intake as some may require.

I too will be doing some testing with different air intake setups to see how much vacuum can be measured in different configurations, while monitoring crankcase pressure.

Although there is some heated discussion and disagreements in here, it's good to see everyone on this topic.

Springs on dipsticks is the worst solution ever, that is all lol.

-Jamie

 

I dont mean take the can off and hook it back like factory. eliminating PVC means to plug the holes when you take it off. You dont know how to think for your self. Your can that vents the valve cover is doing all the pressure relief the engine needs at both idle/light cruise and wide open throttle. YOUR SECOND CAN IS COMPLETELY USELESS. if you dont get it you are just plain stupid.

 

the pcv is dead shut under boost. no crankcase pressure is being relieved under boost.

TOMS check valve is dead shut as well. His main can is venting 100% of crankcase pressure at boost. PCV can is doing 0%....... At light throttle his main vent does 90% of the crankcase venting and his PCV can is doing the other 10%. but that extra 10% is not needed. At light throttle he could get by with 50% of what his first can is capable of. Thats why I say he can ditch the pcv can. its pointless to have it. good vetilation under boost is whats needed here. if you have that you will always have good ventilation at light cruise.

in our case we need to vent the crankcase with far more volume than the factory setup allowed. and it needs to be done with out oil coming out of the can. even in VTA if oil is coming out the filter that mist will be sucked back into the engine. at 400whp the volume of engine compartment air gets sucked dry 10 times every one second.

 

??? Really?

The second catch can traps any oil from going into the intake manifold when the intake manifold is under vacuum, which is probably 90% of the time driving a car. You are right, the can connected to the intake would vent pressure in this case. But you are trying to create airflow into and out of the engine to carry away water vapor. VTA only means you get water vapor building up in the engine under cruise conditions. It's not a big deal, but it's not ideal either.



Have at it.

It's not the muffler that gums up though. It's the valve. The fire side of this is related to how you do the lines. That valve gets hot as hell and will melt plastic lines. Then you have oil spraying on the exhaust at full boost...

Drag car, not much of a concern as heat doesn't really build up enough to cause the lines to melt. Cruise down the freeway at 80mph for an hour or so and it's a different story.