I may change the price later and base it more off a hourly labor rate then a fixed flat rate, because some covers we can do very quickly, and some take way to long and we actually get underpaid for the labor we do.

It would be more fair to base it off cover per cover, then fixed rate.

For now we just have it set to $150 for in person though. The quicker I get at it, ill drop the price.

 

See, even you don't understand. Over $5k in parts, engine R&R, tear down and assembly, machine shop, fluids, miscellaneous stuff. I wasn't building just a short block. Go buy a long block from English racing and see what it costs you..

 

Never said it would not work as I have 2 -10's in my valve cover connected to a Mishimoto baffled sealed catch can with the outlet hooked up to my turbo intake tub running 27+ psi on my built motor. So I'm very familiar with the evacuation setup. I just think 200.00 is a ridiculous amount for what you are giving us IMOP! Of course you're not going to agree you are here to make money! So for each his own.

 

Not that I did not understand dude , SMH, you just said LONG BLOCK! I'm done with you ,back on topic please!

Ps well you go with English racing I'll stick with Buschur stage 3 long block for a few 1000.00 less and just as proven as English.

 

I'm not here to debate but I thought i was getting paid well when we charge a flat rate of $4,000 for a full build which includes disassembly, assembly, shortblock, cyl head, and it covers every labor we do to the car (trunk battery location for example), etc. The only thing not included is trans rebuilding or stuff like that. I even include tuning in that 4k and fluids in that 4k and machine shop labor in that 4k. Turn key 4K labor car is back, broken in, ready to go. We do about 4-5 oil changes before the customer gets it back, and we don't use cheap stuff. All Brad penn break in oil / 20w50 based on clearances and Amsoil filters or OEM for initial fire up on the lift.

We also sell blocks at very good pricing and I have not had a single block I built fail to date and have about 70 out there now. My personal car put down 750wtq, and I have some customers around 1k WHP. I went 148.14 with my evo with around 780whp / 630wtq last time at the track with a back half pickup of 44mph.

Only reason I mention above is because it proves we know what were doing and our builds stay together. Every build we do is very reliable and we cover our work also once again.

I dont mind people questioning labor rates or costs on specific items I offer, but please also understand there was countless times i spent 4-5 hrs cleaning covers from spray paint coming off from being improperly painted and i still only charged 200-250$. Someone like me thats used to making a lot of money an hourly labor rate because of the profession im in thats really low hr/rate pay. I am all about customer service though and helping customers, so sometimes ill work for next to nothing just to help the next guy out with his project.

ceegutta you also must understand, depending where the shops located the hourly labor rate changes, which makes stuff cost more money. In PA I believe the average is 65/hr, but some places are over 100/hr!

 

Tom some people just think they know everything and run off at the mouth you do excellent work and it shows I need to get scheduled for my retune shortly too. I would listen to TSCOMPUSA if I were you his car makes like 2x more hp than yours

 

And with that power is probably more reliable too.

 

Look regardless of what the rest of these nut swinging tools here are saying in support of you here Mr Tom you not gonna justify to me someone spending 200.00 for a hole in a clean mitsubishi valve cover especially since I have done this myself. PERIOD!! It's not a GTR,AMG,nor M. Its a mitsubishi. I own the last two mentimoed M3 and a C55 and even still.

I'm not taking away from whatever other good work you may do but I will critique on the price of this valve cover hole. Its MHOP.

 

You People know that the last two pages have been about how other people spend their money.

This thread/forum is for Problem solving, not personal feelings, take that crap to Facebook please.

 

Why are you wasting everyone's time? People are here to learn, not here to hear you ***** about the cost of a service provided to the Evolution community.

You obviously have zero business sense when it comes to profits. Just stop. Go away. Take your non-Evo valve cover with you.

 

I'm pretty sure we've just set the record on number of posts it took to say "I think $200 is too much for a valve cover tap and cleaning."

In fact, I think you made your point about 3 pages ago.

Anyone who has done an engine build without generic parts knows things get expensive fast. $8000 to $9000 is completely reasonable without even getting to the ported head.

Regardless, this thread is about relieving crankcase pressure so how about we get back to that real quick like

 

yes dearwhatever!

 

I finally hooked up a boost gauge to my oil cap and I get 0psi at all off boost conditions and on a 2nd gear pull I could watch go from 0 to -0.7psi so the 5/8 line going to the intake pipe seems to be scavenging well. This is using my greddy profec b spec II. I have the stock PCV and 2 5/8 lines coming off the side of the VC. One going to the intake tube and one going through a 1/2" boomba check valve to atmosphere. The 2nd probably wasn't necessary but I did it in frustration before checking crankcase pressure.

I guess my next step is putting the stock turbo back on and verifying that it no longer burns oil to hopefully rule out valve stem seals and rings. I did have low compression in #4 and high leak down numbers for #1 and #4.

I drove it again this weekend and I get a lot of smoke in a big puff right after coming to a stop and it finds a steady idle and on start up after a few seconds. I don't notice any in the mirrors at speed but it may just be too faint to tell from my POV. Valve stem seals could be a possible issue? Anyway to check without just replacing them and seeing if it stops?

This is such a PITA. This turbo was so enticing but its coming back to bite me in the ***. Ugh.

 

I thought it was valve stem seals too (before I made ventilation improvements), replaced them, that wasn't the fix. I would call FP with your findings on the crankcase pressure. You definitely shouldn't have any smoke..

 

Last time I called, after I added vents but before I did the compression and leak down she asked about mileage and this and that and started pointing at valve stem seals and rings so I think the only fool proof way to determine its the turbo is to put the old one back on and verify unfortunately. Oh well. this thread helped my cure any crankcase pressure issues if they existed before. It would be quite the coincidence if it turns out to not be the turbo. I don't want to call them again until I have done all I can on my end and there is nowhere else for them to deflect blame to.