for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
#1456
Evolving Member
iTrader: (14)
I did also put in an email to FP today with the specs of my setup and what's happening still. Michael got back to me just asking what CHRA I had and I'm waiting to see what they say. I'm kind of wondering if stepping down to the .20" restrictor from the .30" would help at all or if that would end up being too little oil being supplied to the bearings.
#1457
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I'm not sure how to log that boost gauge with evo scan.
It depends on which CHRA you have for the restrictor size. My turbo still see over 20psi of oil pressure even with a .020 restrictor, which is plenty of oil.
It depends on which CHRA you have for the restrictor size. My turbo still see over 20psi of oil pressure even with a .020 restrictor, which is plenty of oil.
#1459
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
It's higher my doubtful they'll recommend a .020" restrictor for that older housing.
I bought a -4 sending unit tee with an 1/8 pipe port and a small gauge.
I bought a -4 sending unit tee with an 1/8 pipe port and a small gauge.
#1460
Evolving Member
iTrader: (12)
I did a completely unscientific test in 2015 of adding a second restrictor (Nitrous Jet) inline after the FP oil line filter, and my oil leak at the inlet went away. But owing I wasn't taking measurements of oil pressure in that line, I pulled it out of long term fear of harming the CHRA.
My two cents.
My two cents.
#1461
Evolving Member
iTrader: (14)
To check the oil pressure going to the turbo, using a cheap gauge like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-120-P...NY2Mn9&vxp=mtr
Plugged into this
Hopefully this would give me a better idea what's going on and help me estimate if adding another -6an line off the valve cover will help.
#1462
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
seven10
FP is a little sensitive to oil/crankcase pressure.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
What oil weight are you running?
Balance shaft delete?
Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
FP is a little sensitive to oil/crankcase pressure.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
What oil weight are you running?
Balance shaft delete?
Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
#1463
Evolving Member
iTrader: (14)
FP is a little sensitive to oil/crankcase pressure.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
I have a Buschur 2.0L block with a Curt Brown ported head. Never blown the dipstick out. Recent leak down yielded less than a 5% leak from a couple valves.
Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Yes
Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
I have 2 -10an lines off the valve cover, one from the back where the pcv was and then the other on the side where the 3/8" vent use to be. Those run into a sealed STM catch can which has a -10an line going to the intake and a -6an line with a check valve running back to the intake manifold.
What oil weight are you running?
I've run Amsoil 10w-30 Dominator and recently switched to Penngrade 1 20w-50 on instruction from Buschur.
Balance shaft delete?
Yes
Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Idle holds steady at 975 when warm, it's just sounds a little rough because of the Kelford 272 cams.
Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
Thanks, no idea what the pressure at my turbo currently is at. Overall engine oil pressure seems healthy though. It's around 20psi at idle and above 6000 it usually has 95+psi.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
I have a Buschur 2.0L block with a Curt Brown ported head. Never blown the dipstick out. Recent leak down yielded less than a 5% leak from a couple valves.
Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Yes
Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
I have 2 -10an lines off the valve cover, one from the back where the pcv was and then the other on the side where the 3/8" vent use to be. Those run into a sealed STM catch can which has a -10an line going to the intake and a -6an line with a check valve running back to the intake manifold.
What oil weight are you running?
I've run Amsoil 10w-30 Dominator and recently switched to Penngrade 1 20w-50 on instruction from Buschur.
Balance shaft delete?
Yes
Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Idle holds steady at 975 when warm, it's just sounds a little rough because of the Kelford 272 cams.
Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
Thanks, no idea what the pressure at my turbo currently is at. Overall engine oil pressure seems healthy though. It's around 20psi at idle and above 6000 it usually has 95+psi.
#1464
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
FP is a little sensitive to oil/crankcase pressure.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
I have a Buschur 2.0L block with a Curt Brown ported head. Never blown the dipstick out. Recent leak down yielded less than a 5% leak from a couple valves.
Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Yes
Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
I have 2 -10an lines off the valve cover, one from the back where the pcv was and then the other on the side where the 3/8" vent use to be. Those run into a sealed STM catch can which has a -10an line going to the intake and a -6an line with a check valve running back to the intake manifold.
What oil weight are you running?
I've run Amsoil 10w-30 Dominator and recently switched to Penngrade 1 20w-50 on instruction from Buschur.
Balance shaft delete?
Yes
Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Idle holds steady at 975 when warm, it's just sounds a little rough because of the Kelford 272 cams.
Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
Thanks, no idea what the pressure at my turbo currently is at. Overall engine oil pressure seems healthy though. It's around 20psi at idle and above 6000 it usually has 95+psi.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
I have a Buschur 2.0L block with a Curt Brown ported head. Never blown the dipstick out. Recent leak down yielded less than a 5% leak from a couple valves.
Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Yes
Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
I have 2 -10an lines off the valve cover, one from the back where the pcv was and then the other on the side where the 3/8" vent use to be. Those run into a sealed STM catch can which has a -10an line going to the intake and a -6an line with a check valve running back to the intake manifold.
What oil weight are you running?
I've run Amsoil 10w-30 Dominator and recently switched to Penngrade 1 20w-50 on instruction from Buschur.
Balance shaft delete?
Yes
Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Idle holds steady at 975 when warm, it's just sounds a little rough because of the Kelford 272 cams.
Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
Thanks, no idea what the pressure at my turbo currently is at. Overall engine oil pressure seems healthy though. It's around 20psi at idle and above 6000 it usually has 95+psi.
I like the idea of a PCV valve for a street car making moderate power. I've still got one and the single -10 setup.
I've found that heavier oil (20-50) made my car smoke a few times, even on the stock engine. It could be the angle of the drain on the car not flowing well enough with thick oil when cold and oil could pool up inside the compressor housing. If the clearances were set for 20-50 then you may have to stick with it.
Balance shaft delete is going to increase oil pressure a bit everywhere, including the turbo feed line.
I found that increasing the idle speed to 1100-1200 and making the idle as smooth as possible helped reduce the occasional smoke I had with the built engine. I ended up porting the oil pressure relief slightly and this reduced oil pressure a little more and has totally solved my occasional issue.
The combination of those things worked for me . They are just suggestions and you may still have to do your own testing.
#1465
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Try running an oil that has a lower cold weight. You have a ball bearing turbo, so you don't need the high ZDDP content oil. I run Amsoil signature Series 5w50 in my car on the street. I do this because I found a lot of the oil seepage from my turbo was from when the oil was cold and thick, not wanting to drain out of the turbo as quickly.
My car, even with all the supporting oiling and crank case mods still gets some oil in the intake pipe, intercooler, and charge piping. It's just not 100% avoidable. But the stock turbo did it too. It's just what you live with for the performance you get from these turbo's.
For the turbo oil pressure gauge, just get a 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge that has an 1/8 npt fitting to mount directly to that adapter. Much easier then wiring in that gauge.
My car, even with all the supporting oiling and crank case mods still gets some oil in the intake pipe, intercooler, and charge piping. It's just not 100% avoidable. But the stock turbo did it too. It's just what you live with for the performance you get from these turbo's.
For the turbo oil pressure gauge, just get a 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge that has an 1/8 npt fitting to mount directly to that adapter. Much easier then wiring in that gauge.
#1466
Evolving Member
iTrader: (14)
I found that increasing the idle speed to 1100-1200 and making the idle as smooth as possible helped reduce the occasional smoke I had with the built engine. I ended up porting the oil pressure relief slightly and this reduced oil pressure a little more and has totally solved my occasional issue.
The combination of those things worked for me . They are just suggestions and you may still have to do your own testing.
The combination of those things worked for me . They are just suggestions and you may still have to do your own testing.
Try running an oil that has a lower cold weight. You have a ball bearing turbo, so you don't need the high ZDDP content oil. I run Amsoil signature Series 5w50 in my car on the street. I do this because I found a lot of the oil seepage from my turbo was from when the oil was cold and thick, not wanting to drain out of the turbo as quickly.
My car, even with all the supporting oiling and crank case mods still gets some oil in the intake pipe, intercooler, and charge piping. It's just not 100% avoidable. But the stock turbo did it too. It's just what you live with for the performance you get from these turbo's.
For the turbo oil pressure gauge, just get a 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge that has an 1/8 npt fitting to mount directly to that adapter. Much easier then wiring in that gauge.
My car, even with all the supporting oiling and crank case mods still gets some oil in the intake pipe, intercooler, and charge piping. It's just not 100% avoidable. But the stock turbo did it too. It's just what you live with for the performance you get from these turbo's.
For the turbo oil pressure gauge, just get a 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge that has an 1/8 npt fitting to mount directly to that adapter. Much easier then wiring in that gauge.
I'm on the heavier weight oil since that's what Buschur told me to be running with the block I got from them. Likely due to the looser clearances, so I'm not sure how much lower I should run. I'd rather keep the block running well than worrying about the turbo pushing oil.
#1467
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
going from 20w50 to a 5w50 will have the same viscosity when hot. It just won't be so thick when cold. It won't hurt anything.
#1469
Evolving Member
iTrader: (14)
I found that increasing the idle speed to 1100-1200 and making the idle as smooth as possible helped reduce the occasional smoke I had with the built engine. I ended up porting the oil pressure relief slightly and this reduced oil pressure a little more and has totally solved my occasional issue.
#1470
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
You'll need adjustable cam gears to run that oil pump gear. It changes the cam timing.