Any recommendation on what to use to log that? I have an AEM Uego boost gauge, but couldn't find anything about people being able to make Evoscan log the 5v signal from it. I guess I could also just hook it up and eyeball it rather than log it.

I did also put in an email to FP today with the specs of my setup and what's happening still. Michael got back to me just asking what CHRA I had and I'm waiting to see what they say. I'm kind of wondering if stepping down to the .20" restrictor from the .30" would help at all or if that would end up being too little oil being supplied to the bearings.

 

I'm not sure how to log that boost gauge with evo scan.


It depends on which CHRA you have for the restrictor size. My turbo still see over 20psi of oil pressure even with a .020 restrictor, which is plenty of oil.

 

I have the older cast CHRA. I haven't hooked my oil pressure gauge up inline to measure the pressure getting to it, it's currently reading from near the oil filter.

 

It's higher my doubtful they'll recommend a .020" restrictor for that older housing.

I bought a -4 sending unit tee with an 1/8 pipe port and a small gauge.

 

I did a completely unscientific test in 2015 of adding a second restrictor (Nitrous Jet) inline after the FP oil line filter, and my oil leak at the inlet went away. But owing I wasn't taking measurements of oil pressure in that line, I pulled it out of long term fear of harming the CHRA.

My two cents.

 

I'm going to put a 1/8" npt to 4mm barb in an old oil cap and plug my boost gauge into that so I can see what kind of pressure is building up under load.

To check the oil pressure going to the turbo, using a cheap gauge like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-120-P...NY2Mn9&vxp=mtr

Plugged into this


Hopefully this would give me a better idea what's going on and help me estimate if adding another -6an line off the valve cover will help.

 

seven10

FP is a little sensitive to oil/crankcase pressure.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?

Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.

Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?

What oil weight are you running?

Balance shaft delete?

Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?

Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.

 

FP is a little sensitive to oil/crankcase pressure.
Do you have a stock engine with acceptable leak down? Has it ever blown the dipstick out?
I have a Buschur 2.0L block with a Curt Brown ported head. Never blown the dipstick out. Recent leak down yielded less than a 5% leak from a couple valves.

Does it move alot of air with the oil cap off? Basically, is the engine in good health.
Yes

Do you have a single -10 off the valve cover , to a can, then -10 back to the intake pipe?
Stock pcv?
I have 2 -10an lines off the valve cover, one from the back where the pcv was and then the other on the side where the 3/8" vent use to be. Those run into a sealed STM catch can which has a -10an line going to the intake and a -6an line with a check valve running back to the intake manifold.

What oil weight are you running?
I've run Amsoil 10w-30 Dominator and recently switched to Penngrade 1 20w-50 on instruction from Buschur.

Balance shaft delete?
Yes

Idle speed and is the idle choppy or clean?
Idle holds steady at 975 when warm, it's just sounds a little rough because of the Kelford 272 cams.

Getting the oil pressure reading going to the turbo is a good idea. On my older style red My stock engine was 1-3psi at idle and 17-18ish above 6000 on 20-50 IIRC.
My built engine on 10w-40 I've got 1-2psi at idle and 15ish above 6000 with some oil mods.
Thanks, no idea what the pressure at my turbo currently is at. Overall engine oil pressure seems healthy though. It's around 20psi at idle and above 6000 it usually has 95+psi.

 

Sounds like the engine is healthy with plenty of ventilation. Its harder to get a good ring seal with aftermarket 2618 pistons over 4032 or stock but if PTW is on the tighter side it should be fine . You could also monitor crankcase pressure with a gauge and a few pulls to verify it.

I like the idea of a PCV valve for a street car making moderate power. I've still got one and the single -10 setup.

I've found that heavier oil (20-50) made my car smoke a few times, even on the stock engine. It could be the angle of the drain on the car not flowing well enough with thick oil when cold and oil could pool up inside the compressor housing. If the clearances were set for 20-50 then you may have to stick with it.

Balance shaft delete is going to increase oil pressure a bit everywhere, including the turbo feed line.

I found that increasing the idle speed to 1100-1200 and making the idle as smooth as possible helped reduce the occasional smoke I had with the built engine. I ended up porting the oil pressure relief slightly and this reduced oil pressure a little more and has totally solved my occasional issue.

The combination of those things worked for me . They are just suggestions and you may still have to do your own testing.

 

Try running an oil that has a lower cold weight. You have a ball bearing turbo, so you don't need the high ZDDP content oil. I run Amsoil signature Series 5w50 in my car on the street. I do this because I found a lot of the oil seepage from my turbo was from when the oil was cold and thick, not wanting to drain out of the turbo as quickly.


My car, even with all the supporting oiling and crank case mods still gets some oil in the intake pipe, intercooler, and charge piping. It's just not 100% avoidable. But the stock turbo did it too. It's just what you live with for the performance you get from these turbo's.


For the turbo oil pressure gauge, just get a 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge that has an 1/8 npt fitting to mount directly to that adapter. Much easier then wiring in that gauge.

 

I'll try that, I know my oil pressure relief has never been ported. Upon looking around it seems like I should only do a little bit and retest. I think first thing this week log the crankcase pressure and see how high it is even with all my venting.

I figured it would never be 0% oil in my intake, I remember always have a light film with my Evo 8 and 9 turbos.

I'm on the heavier weight oil since that's what Buschur told me to be running with the block I got from them. Likely due to the looser clearances, so I'm not sure how much lower I should run. I'd rather keep the block running well than worrying about the turbo pushing oil.

 

going from 20w50 to a 5w50 will have the same viscosity when hot. It just won't be so thick when cold. It won't hurt anything.

 

Thanks, I didn't know. I might try that at my next oil change if the other things Abacus recommended don't help reduce this more.

 

Would this also be a good alternative to porting the oil relief? A friend suggested just getting this: https://englishracing.net/products/e...pump-gear-4g63

 

You'll need adjustable cam gears to run that oil pump gear. It changes the cam timing.