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for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues

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Old May 12, 2016 | 02:00 AM
  #1411  
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Originally Posted by BiFfMaN
Maintaining negative crank pressure is not just for blow-by gases, but to also to promote proper oil pressure. For every psi over in the crank, the oil has to overcome that to circulate.
and this is exactly why I wont be in here answering questions and schooling people.

5 psi crankcase pressure is very bad. and you are worried about 5 psi less oil pressure subtracted from say 80 psi?
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:07 AM
  #1412  
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
and this is exactly why I wont be in here answering questions and schooling people.

5 psi crankcase pressure is very bad. and you are worried about 5 psi less oil pressure subtracted from say 80 psi?
You could answer my question. It wasn't quite as stupid...lol
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:25 AM
  #1413  
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
...

5 psi crankcase pressure is very bad. and you are worried about 5 psi less oil pressure subtracted from say 80 psi?
And I'll add that crankcase pressure actually has no effect on recirculatory oil pressure. The same crankcase pressure that is pushing back against oil flow coming out of all the orfices is also pushing oil into the pump. Its a net zero loss.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 11:18 AM
  #1414  
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We used a positive pressure system in our dry sump to promote positive feed to the pump, but it will not gain you any extra pressure. After the pump it is regulated, any net gains is void at this point. While this positive pressure in the sump works good for a Dry sump, does not help a wet sump system.

Since we measure the pressure at the pump head, the pressure downstream the circuit is much lower. So the effect of a positive crankcase pressure is felt on those components down stream, like your wrist pins or valve train (Past the HLA).

Also to add, Negative pressure also helps the turbo drain work faster, and reduce oil foaming effects.

Edit: Some light reading on the subject.

http://scholar.uwindsor.ca/cgi/viewc...17&context=etd

Last edited by BiFfMaN; May 12, 2016 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2016 | 06:32 AM
  #1415  
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im pretty sure im having an issue like this as well. Ive read through several pages of posts, but want to be sure im on the right track. Im having the issue where after a pull and i let off throttle, about 2 seconds later i get the puff of smoke out the exhaust. Definitely oil.

ive checked the IC piping and no sign of any oil.
Right now the upper vent on the right side of valve cover is vented to a catch can.
The PCV valve side is still connected as stock( i tried removing PCV and venting under the car as a test) but saw no improvement


Evo VIII
Running a EVO IX 71HTA CHRA with full bolt ons and E85 approx 375WHP(28 PSI)

Someone recommended trying the Buscher catch can that goes back to the oil pan, but ive read that some have had condensation issues with this method.

Video of it doing it on dyno
http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOmy4wsn1hY


Any pointers are appreciated.

Last edited by xsolowx; Jun 22, 2016 at 06:43 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #1416  
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You need to enlarge the driver side port on the valvecover. As has been described in this thread.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 10:52 AM
  #1417  
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finally setup my pcv, better than it was anyways
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 04:19 PM
  #1418  
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My car had a -8an and a 3/8 to an line adapter on the pcv side to the moroso catch can and the cc psi got so bad, oil would seep out of the back of the oil cap and run down the back of the valve cover and down the back of the motor [2.4LR with 10.1CR]. I took my car to Freed Engineering in Millersville, MD [also personal friend], Ben [owner] right away diagnosed to me that the cc lines we're to small. He upgrade them both to -10AN and drilled and tapped the CC to -10an as well and crimped the ends on the oil cap and problem solved. She's back to running like a raped ape!
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 06:04 AM
  #1419  
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My car currently has just a vented relief valve, and it is leaking oil. The dipstick has been pushed out multiple times which to confirms blow by. Ive been recommended radium catch cans. Now which would work better, running two recirculating catch cans, one would plumb in with the crank case vent hose. The other would plumb in line with the PCV hose.

Now would it make sense to switch these to VTA or what would be efficient without being overkill. I would like room to grow with this setup.

Thanks
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 12:23 AM
  #1420  
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Here is How I measured my CC Pressure which is 0 (Zero) :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfAt...ature=youtu.be

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...project-9.html
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Old May 17, 2017 | 08:06 AM
  #1421  
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Not sure if it's been brought up in this thread, but how much moisture build up in a catch can is too much? I understand it's gonna build up moisture but at what point does it become excessive/indicate a problem?

Current setup is the STM recirc catch can.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 09:14 AM
  #1422  
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Running E85 you'll get decent amount.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 09:19 AM
  #1423  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Running E85 you'll get decent amount.
Caveat: I'm running pump 92.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 09:40 AM
  #1424  
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E85 you get the E85 soup, with gas you'll still get water because water is a byproduct of combustion. You also live in the humid PNW. I also noticed the STM sealed catch can does a very good job of catching fluid because it sits low relative to where it's recirculating to. I installed one on a car here, and he only runs pump gas too, and it collects a decent amount of water/oil gunk.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 09:51 AM
  #1425  
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Yeah, I totally understand. It just seems excessive as hell. I've been collecting it since my last oil change just to see how much. Gonna empty my can today most likely and see what the total is (since I'm only like 200 or so miles away from my next oil change).

I'm still getting some white smoke from my exhaust as well. I empty the can fairly regularly so I doubt it's from not emptying it enough (if that's even a thing). Thinking about opening up the DS AN fitting to a -10 instead of the -6 that came with the kit (or adding another -6 to run to the extra fitting on the can).
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