for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
The can draws from both the -6 fitting and the -10 fitting from the valve cover all the time. Depending on throttle position, that air is going to the turbo inlet or the intake manifold.
Have you tried hooking up a sensor/gauge to log crank case pressure? The turbo really should not be smoking with that catch can.
Have you tried hooking up a sensor/gauge to log crank case pressure? The turbo really should not be smoking with that catch can.
Also just noticed they've added an additional check valve to their system. When I bought mine it only had the check valve in the line running to the IM. Now they have a second one on the line running back to the intake pipe.
I'm gonna have to pay more attention to how often it smokes. Only time I really notice it is cold start in the morning before I'm heading to work.
Adding the check valve to the intake pipe line lets the IM drawy a vacuum on the crank case at idle. Without the check valve in the intake pipe line, the IM can just draw air through the valve cover from the intake pipe line. It also help make idle rpm more controllable/stable.
Adding the check valve to the intake pipe line lets the IM drawy a vacuum on the crank case at idle. Without the check valve in the intake pipe line, the IM can just draw air through the valve cover from the intake pipe line. It also help make idle rpm more controllable/stable.
I have a question for other FP ball bearing turbo users, before taking steps to reduce or eliminate crank case pressure was your turbo leaking past the compressor and turbine sides? Further, did your turbo have a little axial play?
I had a Buschur motor dropped in my car late last year and I put a used FP Red ball bearing turbo that I got from a member here on it. Shortly after I started seeing oil accumulate in my compressor and intake side piping. The shop I have work on my car thought that either I didn't break in the engine enough to have it seal well or that the turbo was toast. After doing a compression and leak down test and finding it was all good they went back to saying that the turbo was already done since oil was leaking past the compressor and turbine seals and there is about 7 thousandths of axial play.
However, after seeing other people here with FP turbos and similar symptoms I got to thinking my setup is also likely suffering from only high crankcase pressure. Unfortunately I don't have a gauge to log mine, but as long as the turbos wheels aren't hitting the housings wouldn't it be a better step to just increase valve cover vent sizes and run a sealed catch can system first to see if the problems go away rather than unnecessarily send the turbo back to FP?
I had a Buschur motor dropped in my car late last year and I put a used FP Red ball bearing turbo that I got from a member here on it. Shortly after I started seeing oil accumulate in my compressor and intake side piping. The shop I have work on my car thought that either I didn't break in the engine enough to have it seal well or that the turbo was toast. After doing a compression and leak down test and finding it was all good they went back to saying that the turbo was already done since oil was leaking past the compressor and turbine seals and there is about 7 thousandths of axial play.
However, after seeing other people here with FP turbos and similar symptoms I got to thinking my setup is also likely suffering from only high crankcase pressure. Unfortunately I don't have a gauge to log mine, but as long as the turbos wheels aren't hitting the housings wouldn't it be a better step to just increase valve cover vent sizes and run a sealed catch can system first to see if the problems go away rather than unnecessarily send the turbo back to FP?
Honestly, I haven't really even had time. Still need to order the check valve from STM (since it wasn't part of the recirc catch can kit when I bought it). Had other, more important issues pop up (like a fuel leak) that need addressing first.
I have a question for other FP ball bearing turbo users, before taking steps to reduce or eliminate crank case pressure was your turbo leaking past the compressor and turbine sides? Further, did your turbo have a little axial play?
I had a Buschur motor dropped in my car late last year and I put a used FP Red ball bearing turbo that I got from a member here on it. Shortly after I started seeing oil accumulate in my compressor and intake side piping. The shop I have work on my car thought that either I didn't break in the engine enough to have it seal well or that the turbo was toast. After doing a compression and leak down test and finding it was all good they went back to saying that the turbo was already done since oil was leaking past the compressor and turbine seals and there is about 7 thousandths of axial play.
However, after seeing other people here with FP turbos and similar symptoms I got to thinking my setup is also likely suffering from only high crankcase pressure. Unfortunately I don't have a gauge to log mine, but as long as the turbos wheels aren't hitting the housings wouldn't it be a better step to just increase valve cover vent sizes and run a sealed catch can system first to see if the problems go away rather than unnecessarily send the turbo back to FP?
I had a Buschur motor dropped in my car late last year and I put a used FP Red ball bearing turbo that I got from a member here on it. Shortly after I started seeing oil accumulate in my compressor and intake side piping. The shop I have work on my car thought that either I didn't break in the engine enough to have it seal well or that the turbo was toast. After doing a compression and leak down test and finding it was all good they went back to saying that the turbo was already done since oil was leaking past the compressor and turbine seals and there is about 7 thousandths of axial play.
However, after seeing other people here with FP turbos and similar symptoms I got to thinking my setup is also likely suffering from only high crankcase pressure. Unfortunately I don't have a gauge to log mine, but as long as the turbos wheels aren't hitting the housings wouldn't it be a better step to just increase valve cover vent sizes and run a sealed catch can system first to see if the problems go away rather than unnecessarily send the turbo back to FP?
Thanks, that's what I thought. Going to go -10an off the front and rear and run those to a sealed catch can from STM and then back into my intake. Hopefully that solves or greatly reduces the problems.
FP said my axial play was a little loose based on the measurements, but still within spec.
FP said my axial play was a little loose based on the measurements, but still within spec.
Thanks, that's what I thought. Going to go -10an off the front and rear and run those to a sealed catch can from STM and then back into my intake. Hopefully that solves or greatly reduces the problems.
FP said my axial play was a little loose based on the measurements, but still within spec.
FP said my axial play was a little loose based on the measurements, but still within spec.
I'm looking for some thoughts on the crankcase pressure/catch can issues I'm dealing with right now. My biggest problem right now is that whenever I hookup the line with the check valve running to the intake manifold, the car wants to idle around 2000-2500 rpms and won't go any lower, even after it warms up. If I block off the port at the intake manifold and then just run the line on the back of the VC to the can it idles fine, but I'm pretty sure it's pushing oil past the turbo seals because I get a little bit of smoke at idle. Anybody have any idea on what could be causing the high idle issue? I'm also on E85 FWIW.
Need to adjust the BISS, and possibly idle settings in the ROM. The PCV line that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold is basically a controlled vacuum leak, and you make it bigger with the bigger line. It also helps to put a check valve in the line that goes to the turbo inlet so that the intake manifold can't draw air through that line when it's in vacuum.
Need to adjust the BISS, and possibly idle settings in the ROM. The PCV line that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold is basically a controlled vacuum leak, and you make it bigger with the bigger line. It also helps to put a check valve in the line that goes to the turbo inlet so that the intake manifold can't draw air through that line when it's in vacuum.








