what's the best oil for race engine?
I am curious why so many seem to be pushing thicker weight oils in small engines with light weight internals. The EVO engines are similar in rotation mass as are formula one engines and they use a 0-30 weight and even a 0-20 weights oils. Im not an oil expert but its my understanding from my boat racing experience...( 502 ci engines making 1000 hp ) thats when you want to run a 50 weight oil for all the heavy parts. If someone knows for sure different from a real technical standpoint please speak out.
Its pretty easy answer. In fact, you kinda answered it your self. Remember the compression stroke carries a lot of "weight" down on the bearings. You have big v8 engines making 125hp per cylinder. We have little 4 cylinder motors making 200 hp per piston. No matter what way you cut it up, that is a lot of pressure on the rotating parts and the heavier oil protects that much more.
-Em
I am curious why so many seem to be pushing thicker weight oils in small engines with light weight internals. The EVO engines are similar in rotation mass as are formula one engines and they use a 0-30 weight and even a 0-20 weights oils. Im not an oil expert but its my understanding from my boat racing experience...( 502 ci engines making 1000 hp ) thats when you want to run a 50 weight oil for all the heavy parts. If someone knows for sure different from a real technical standpoint please speak out.
The use of higher viscosity oils in small displacement, high revving engines seems to be a continuation of an age-old preventative measure against viscosity loss due to high temperatures and shear. Full synthetics provide superior protection against issues, so this isn't as important as it was in years past (not to users of full synthetics anyway).
One thing that I've noted over past years with 4G63s is how those who take them out and really beat on them at the drags claim the thicker film of 40-50 weight oils fared better where oil pump longevity is concerned. I have no way to prove or disprove this, nor do I feel it's applicable to most here. Ultimately, it may be more so a matter of film strength than thickness, but again, I have no way to prove this.
Under no circumstances should you consider the 60 weight oil. Even M1 20w-50 is on the heavy side. Check into the M1 10w-40 4T oil I suggested above.
Last edited by Ted B; Nov 20, 2010 at 04:30 PM.
We can't realistically equate 4G63s to F1 engines. F1 engines are designed from the ground up to use lightweight oils, and aren't expected to go 100k miles between rebuilds.
The use of higher viscosity oils in small displacement, high revving engines seems to be a continuation of an age-old preventative measure against viscosity loss due to high temperatures and shear. Full synthetics provide superior protection against issues, so this isn't as important as it was in years past (not to users of full synthetics anyway).
One thing that I've noted over past years with 4G63s is how those who take them out and really beat on them at the drags claim the thicker film of 40-50 weight oils fared better where oil pump longevity is concerned. I have no way to prove or disprove this, nor do I feel it's applicable to most here. Ultimately, it may be more so a matter of film strength than thickness, but again, I have no way to prove this.
Under no circumstances should you consider the 60 weight oil. Even M1 20w-50 is on the heavy side. Check into the M1 10w-40 4T oil I suggested above.
The use of higher viscosity oils in small displacement, high revving engines seems to be a continuation of an age-old preventative measure against viscosity loss due to high temperatures and shear. Full synthetics provide superior protection against issues, so this isn't as important as it was in years past (not to users of full synthetics anyway).
One thing that I've noted over past years with 4G63s is how those who take them out and really beat on them at the drags claim the thicker film of 40-50 weight oils fared better where oil pump longevity is concerned. I have no way to prove or disprove this, nor do I feel it's applicable to most here. Ultimately, it may be more so a matter of film strength than thickness, but again, I have no way to prove this.
Under no circumstances should you consider the 60 weight oil. Even M1 20w-50 is on the heavy side. Check into the M1 10w-40 4T oil I suggested above.
Can you get Motul 300V Racing oil? If so, you might want to look into either the 10W-40 Chrono, or the 15W-50 Competition. Both feature a double ester formulation with 0% shear. They are however relatively expensive. But cost isn´t an impediment is it when seeking quality?
Last edited by sparky; Nov 20, 2010 at 08:56 PM.
I prefer M1 0w-40 to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 where readily available 40 weight oils are concerned, primarily because the Shell product's literature specifically claims it to be formulated with minimal phosphorus content. While that doesn't appear to present issues in most cases, I can't see anything about it that makes it especially desirable, not on paper anyway.
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Rotella T6 5w 40 voa http://home.earthlink.net/~alan.m.ro...lla5W-40T6.jpg
Rotella T6 5w 40 voa http://home.earthlink.net/~alan.m.ro...lla5W-40T6.jpg
thanks for sharing.
that is the oil i run in my car (Shell Rotella 5w-40). i get it by the jug for 24$ at my local autozone.
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Read the full details here this oil is awesome im running it in my 4g63 as we speak for winter time= http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...rotella_t6.pdf
Last edited by BoostedAWD25; Dec 31, 2010 at 12:31 PM.
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No point in doing that your not making krazy power or tracking the car that oil is aimed more for built motors,track cars,and highly modified cars. Brad Penn even states that on there website its for high performance engines. You can run brad pen 10w-30 as its for street/track cars or Run 10w-40 or 15w-50 if you plan on beating on it in summer time cause of more heat protection but in winter 10w-30 is fine or 5w-40.
Last edited by BoostedAWD25; Dec 30, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
this thread has a lot of good information on oil weights, keep the posts coming.
my one concern, away from the oil debate, is that if you have a person essentially building you evo engine from the ground up, they should be able to TELL YOU the proper oil to be used. if they suggest asking people on forums or online, that (for me at least) would be a red flag as far as a 4g63 engine builder is concerned.
obviously if he/she has a track record of building good engines, thats awesome. but if he cant recommend a good oil for it to run on....hmmm i duno. just my thoughts.
gl with your choice! cheers
my one concern, away from the oil debate, is that if you have a person essentially building you evo engine from the ground up, they should be able to TELL YOU the proper oil to be used. if they suggest asking people on forums or online, that (for me at least) would be a red flag as far as a 4g63 engine builder is concerned.
obviously if he/she has a track record of building good engines, thats awesome. but if he cant recommend a good oil for it to run on....hmmm i duno. just my thoughts.
gl with your choice! cheers
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