5LEEPERISAH23I

iTrader: (23)

Do you pull the motor with trans connected?

And also with intake mani still connected?

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

last time i took off the intake manifold, head, turbo, etc and pulled just the shortblock out, seemed to be easier for me, but others will argue its easier to pull everything out at once.

i was able to disassemble my entire motor and pull it in 3 hours this way.

I always remove the transmission first. make sure you have a lot of support on the trans its pretty heavy for a 4 cylinder engine transmission. i usually connect a engine hoist to two of the studs sticking out of it for the engine/trans mount on it and balance it that way.. be sure to disconnect the throw out bearing from the wedge collar before trying to pull the trans or it wont budge.

depends how good of equipt you have to work with and stuff.. ive seen guys remove the entire engine + trans all at once.

last time i did this i left the hood on the car, so i had limited space.. i reocmmend removing the hood, front bumper, etc.. gives you more room. last time i did it i was in a hurry so i left the hood on and bumper etc..

removing the stuff is easy and shouldnt take you long, assembling is another story

If you want the manual for your car let me know, ill link it to you.. also you still need the oil?

5LEEPERISAH23I

iTrader: (23)

So it is possible to pull out the motor with trans and TC connected

four-loco

iTrader: (21)

It is possible to get the motor out with the trans still connected. It going to be tough though and you will need the leveling device on your hoist so you can drop the side with the tranny towards the ground and pull it up at an angle. Your best bet is to disconnect the transfer case from the tranny, then drop the tranny out the bottom and pull the motor though the top. Leave the intake mani on. I took the exhaust mani and turbo off before I pulled the motor.

-Chris

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

ya you have to unbolt the Tcase from the trans. I always piece together slowly to avoid any issues, but im sure my way makes it harder.

I just dont have enough trust in hoists to hoist my entire engine in the air and drop it in lol. Makes it harder to tighten the headstuds on a engine stand, yet at the same time makes it harder to do timing belt once the engines in the car etc.

I did the following in the order if i can recall:

Removed upper/lower piping.
Removed air intake, maf etc.
Removed spark plug stuff on valve cover.
Removed turbo & downpipe etc.
Removed intake manifold from head.
Removed valve cover.
Unbolted headstuds from head.
Removed accessory belt
Removed misc pulleys
Removed timing covers
took tension off hydraulic tensioner ( pulled off timing belt)
Pulled head
unbolted cam caps and make sure you mark each cap with a number and NEVER get them mixed up

Use Lucas assembly lube also when reassembling. i recommend loading up the oil pump with it also.
To get oil pump open to apply lube you need a impact screw driver where you hit with a hammer and
it breaks the screws loose, otherwise you will strip the screws.


Then the rest is self explanatory.. LIke I said I have the manual that gives all torque specs and etc so you can do everything by the book and know its being done 100% proper. (very important when it comes to suspension bolts)

if you want it let me know.

You'll need a good 1/2 torque wrench, and full 1/2 set, 3/8, etc.. the suspension bolts are not possible to break loose with anything less then 1/2 or it will break sockets.



= as i was installing

= as i was installing

Id do it the same way over again, just this time id know better once i bolted up the engine to the passenger side motor mount that the engine will lean over far enough to hit the waterpump pulley/timing pulley against the side of the engine bay, so you must support the engine under the pan with a jack to keep it supported.

The fastest way of course would be pull everything in big pieces and assemble the same way as well, but i like my method, it allowed me better access to make sure every single bolt received proper torque spec on the car.

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

I'm pulling my motor from the top in the spring time with the trans.

sunrichmond

iTrader: (5)

when i pull mine out i remove the t case and drop the whole motor still connected with the trans, of course though i got a lift at my shop

naplesevo

iTrader: (13)

if you are asking this please dont do it !

you can drop the whole cradle right out the bottom best way in my option leave everything attached take the exhaust off, and take the drive shaft out and your golden

The-Evo

iTrader: (20)

^^^ this is how we did my buddies evo. Very easy this way. Remove the crossmember which holds all your front suspension and just drop it to the ground and slide it out. Only problem with this is that you have to remove the oil pan to avoid damage to it and also the sheild to the transmission might bend when it hits the ground. We actually removed the trans and transfercase and then droped it down to the ground. Everyone has their own opinion on how to do this, but this is how we did it.

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

If you have the ability to get the car high enough to drop the subframe and roll it out then yes do it that way. Most people don't have that luxury so we have to pull it from the top.

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

wow f that. good luck with that. i did this twice now on my evo and i would never drop the subframe or attempt to remove the engine with the trans attached to it but thats just me.. i have experience doing this tho.. i guess do whatever works, but i cant imagine the subframe being fun to get off the car lol.

BuiltS13

iTrader: (11)

I found unbolting the tcase and dropping everything down the fastest way. This is with the car on heavy duty jack stands of course..... Yes I said duty

sunrichmond

iTrader: (5)

you do not need to take the subframe out, to much work to unbolt the rack & pinion