Some current oil analysis info, ongoing testing.
Jan 14, 2011, 03:15 PM
#46
For 95% of the Evo population the OEM or paper eliment filters are all you need. Many good companies make oil filters that are paper, WIX, Denso, and Purolator to name a couple. Nothing wrong with them. At least my UOA's never showed much of a difference between brand A (paper) vs. brand B (cellulose media).
I trust the guy that knows Evo's better than I do. My Tuner and Friend. When I asked him what filter to use for my application he said stick to OEM. I have used other filters that cost 3x's as much, but after doing the UOA's there just isn't enough there to support the added cost.
If your interested in doing extended drain intervals, then by all menas, buy yourself a "upgraded" filter. For DD use? The OEM, WIX or Purolator's are just fine.
I trust the guy that knows Evo's better than I do. My Tuner and Friend. When I asked him what filter to use for my application he said stick to OEM. I have used other filters that cost 3x's as much, but after doing the UOA's there just isn't enough there to support the added cost.
If your interested in doing extended drain intervals, then by all menas, buy yourself a "upgraded" filter. For DD use? The OEM, WIX or Purolator's are just fine.
Jan 17, 2011, 07:09 PM
#50
i think we should also add tranny and maybe diff fluids test in here, these dont have to be done soon but along the the way sometime.
i may have some test results and can get some new ones on SVG 75W90,, i may have one of our sponsored cars do an analysis on Red line
Jan 18, 2011, 07:32 AM
#52
I do know that Mike at Road Race uses 20/50 Redline, and BR uses 20/50 not sure about AMS, but MANY west coast tuners all run 20/50 weather its a modded block or OEM. Im really confused on that part. Who do you trust? People that sell oil? The people that build motors? or the people that made the car 
Jeff
Jeff
I trust the people who built the engine
, and my experience,, you can trus whoever you want however if you are not right you will loose power or loose an engine over time through excessive wear.However it should be very evident to you and others that once you modify your engine to anything over the stock power all rules and regs go out the window therfore the 10W30 spec in most cases may go out the window.
The pressures inside them cylinders will increase drastically hence more forces on the pistons downward translated into more compression loads on the oil thats flowing between the crank and bearings you put heat, contaminants on top of things and matters get worse.
With that being said this is why many shops and many cars opt to go up in viscocity at least one grade 10W40, rule of thumb has been that anything modified can get a way with going up one level to a 40,,, cheap inssurance
once you are modified you must choose your oil battles carefully, and what i mean is that you should run the oil dependant on your set up, driving conditions, fuel being used.
For built engines, talk to your engine builder no questions asked,,, or just run a 40 or 50 and be done with it.
Jan 19, 2011, 06:37 AM
#53
Tommi
i think we should also add tranny and maybe diff fluids test in here, these dont have to be done soon but along the the way sometime.
i may have some test results and can get some new ones on SVG 75W90,, i may have one of our sponsored cars do an analysis on Red line
i think we should also add tranny and maybe diff fluids test in here, these dont have to be done soon but along the the way sometime.
i may have some test results and can get some new ones on SVG 75W90,, i may have one of our sponsored cars do an analysis on Red line
Jan 22, 2011, 08:51 AM
#58
I know Ralliart UK did not use 20/50 oils and they built MANY WRC and Group N Evo Rally Cars, they used 10/60 Castrol RS Oil, Now, Extreme Motorsports UK (formally Ralliart UK) currently runs 10/60 Castrol Edge Sport in their Rally Cars.
Mind you though, this thick viscosity is not recommended on OEM bearing clearances. Here is a copy of an email I got from Extreme Motorsports when I asked about the 5/30 Redline in my car. They do not advise the use of a 20/50 which is kinda ironic since most tuners here in the USA recommend it even on OEM blocks and OEM Turbos.
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for your email.
With the 4G63 engine, we have always used Castrol RS and now Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 fully synthetic oil, in the Castrol recommendation guide, they list 0w30 fully synthetic.
I don’t think you would have any issues running the Redline 5w30, but wouldn’t advise the 20w50 option.
I know that ambient temperature will also be a factor and we’re not graced with your temperatures over here, but I don’t think your doing anything wrong with the oil you’re using.
The Evolution X 4B11 engine uses 5w30 fully synthetic as recommended by Mitsubishi.
Regards,
Simon Grove | Xtreme UK Ltd | Aftersales Director | T: 01384 880680The Old Forge Estate
Dudley Road
Stourbridge
DY9 8EL
I personally have ALLOT of respect for these folks. They Started up Ralliart UK a decade ago, and were building Evo's since they were first introduced in the UK in the mid 90's. They know the Evo probably better than anybody (besides of course). Mind you this is Extreme's response with my mods and using a STOCK block and STOCK turbo.
Oil is a really tough subject to talk about on the boards. Its kinda like talking about Religion or Politics at work. Everyone has an idea, a plan, or whatever, but what it comes down to is what works for you.
Im running 5/30 Redline in my Evo. When I tell tuners that I use a 5/30 they say "man your stupid for running such a thin oil in an Evo" and I tell them I don't consider an oil with an HTHS of 3.8 to be thin, and they look at me with this look of disbelief. I really feel that most tuners don't know much about oil either. They just won't admit it. IMO.
Anyway guys, good thread here. Hope we can keep it honest and non biased. Otherwise its just a waste of time. I think the intention here though is good, so I am keeping up on this thread.
Jeff
Mind you though, this thick viscosity is not recommended on OEM bearing clearances. Here is a copy of an email I got from Extreme Motorsports when I asked about the 5/30 Redline in my car. They do not advise the use of a 20/50 which is kinda ironic since most tuners here in the USA recommend it even on OEM blocks and OEM Turbos.
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for your email.
With the 4G63 engine, we have always used Castrol RS and now Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 fully synthetic oil, in the Castrol recommendation guide, they list 0w30 fully synthetic.
I don’t think you would have any issues running the Redline 5w30, but wouldn’t advise the 20w50 option.
I know that ambient temperature will also be a factor and we’re not graced with your temperatures over here, but I don’t think your doing anything wrong with the oil you’re using.
The Evolution X 4B11 engine uses 5w30 fully synthetic as recommended by Mitsubishi.
Regards,
Simon Grove | Xtreme UK Ltd | Aftersales Director | T: 01384 880680The Old Forge Estate
Dudley Road
Stourbridge
DY9 8EL
I personally have ALLOT of respect for these folks. They Started up Ralliart UK a decade ago, and were building Evo's since they were first introduced in the UK in the mid 90's. They know the Evo probably better than anybody (besides
of course). Mind you this is Extreme's response with my mods and using a STOCK block and STOCK turbo.Oil is a really tough subject to talk about on the boards. Its kinda like talking about Religion or Politics at work. Everyone has an idea, a plan, or whatever, but what it comes down to is what works for you.
Im running 5/30 Redline in my Evo. When I tell tuners that I use a 5/30 they say "man your stupid for running such a thin oil in an Evo" and I tell them I don't consider an oil with an HTHS of 3.8 to be thin, and they look at me with this look of disbelief. I really feel that most tuners don't know much about oil either. They just won't admit it. IMO.
Anyway guys, good thread here. Hope we can keep it honest and non biased. Otherwise its just a waste of time. I think the intention here though is good, so I am keeping up on this thread.
Jeff
From personal experience, I wouldnt run a 20w50 in my stock 4g63, My personal belief is to use the THINNEST oil possible. Too thick of an oil is not gonna flow as easily through which could cause premature wear on parts. Too thin, might not protect enough under higher loads/heat. For guys that are concerned about your oil getting too hot with a 0w30, the evos do have a decent oil cooler setup that will keep temps in check.
Just like a cooling system which operates at best efficiency at a cetain temp, the oil system has a temp which it operates best at, but I dont know if its any different for a turbo vs n/a though. This is just my view, Im by no means an oil guru and dont have any problem admitting that.
Jan 22, 2011, 09:36 AM
#59
From personal experience, I wouldnt run a 20w50 in my stock 4g63, My personal belief is to use the THINNEST oil possible. Too thick of an oil is not gonna flow as easily through which could cause premature wear on parts. Too thin, might not protect enough under higher loads/heat. For guys that are concerned about your oil getting too hot with a 0w30, the evos do have a decent oil cooler setup that will keep temps in check.
Just like a cooling system which operates at best efficiency at a cetain temp, the oil system has a temp which it operates best at, but I dont know if its any different for a turbo vs n/a though. This is just my view, Im by no means an oil guru and dont have any problem admitting that.
Just like a cooling system which operates at best efficiency at a cetain temp, the oil system has a temp which it operates best at, but I dont know if its any different for a turbo vs n/a though. This is just my view, Im by no means an oil guru and dont have any problem admitting that.
Basically what you are saying is that with the cooling systems we have these days we shuld not see anything over X degrees, thermostat is instrumented into the car onboard computer, at a certain temp that thermostat will open to maintain a prescribed temperature, the oil cooler helps with keeping the oil that passes through the red hot turbo and that cast iron block a little cooler.
NOTE: And this is the main reason why is important to purchase high quality highlly refinned base stock oils, because when you are intersted in running the tinnest oil you can that will allow you for best power output and best MPG its so important that your oil holds up to the abuse of heat and shear, this if where the consumer should be looking at their oil results for (High Temperature/High Shear (ASTM D-4683) very closely, rule of thumb an oil should not see results below 2.9 cP
Evos dont suffer much from overheating.
The key lies in how well that oil is capable of holding up to the seen heat and shear, where temps is concerenned,
You want an oil that passed with flying colors the following test, ASTM D4683 "High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity", and ASTM D5800 "Noack Volatility"
