I'm glad someone realized what I was trying to say.

 

Yeah I agree for what you want, 2.0 hands down. I like the 2.4 for the best possible street build but I realized after my research there was a lot more things that I need to consider if I want to use it for other venues especially road racing(rr). RR that's where I think the 2.3 stroker takes a little bit of an edge over the 2.4.

 

what would be needed over the normal 2.0 build to do a 2.4 or 2.3?

 

100mm crank is needed for the 2.3 & or the 2.4.

 

that is a long story but since you went there so will I. Put a downpayment on a 2.3 but had no shop at the time so i told the company to hold on to it to fiqure it out. When i finally found a shop that was not going to rip me off and take care of my **** i bought it. i knew nothing of the 2.4 but blkcarbon along with others where like should have went that route. when we got the motor and i made my trip down 7 hours to the shop after taking it apart turns out it was a 2.4 thats when i started doing my research on it.

had two options from the guy that built my motor refund the difference and agree on a low price or send it back and get something else. well i already waited 5 months for the motor and already took time off work to drop my car off and motor was already there inspected and 2 parts needed replacement I was like fuc* it ill fiqure it out and make it work so i was sent the wrong motor but got credited the difference in fact i paid less then 2k once money was sent back and the motor had quality parts even after buying another rod and bearings still not close to 2500 for my built motor. The only thing i might do different is possible LR version but there was not alot of information back 9 months ago like now nor several companines building 2.4 evos

I understood him perfectly. yes i understand a 2.0 can be cheaper for sure. Several options which makes it great.

 

i see the revving capability of a 2.0 as an upgrade to the torquier stroker because you're using the gearing better (more revs + speed + ACCEL).

The only place where I actually imagine a stroker is either A) RALLYING or B) HIGHWAY MILES WITH A TALLER FINAL DRIVE for better economy and ability to overtake without downshifting or C) POOR GRIP CONDITIONS.

DOESN'T mean I WONT try a LR 2.4 ))

 

So the stock Rev limit of the 2.0 is ~7,000 RPM

Built 2.0 9000 RPM
Built 2.3 8500 RPM
Built 2.4LR 8800 RPM

For drag racing I would suspect a 2.4LR would be the ticket - torque, power, and revs (speed in each gear). That said, there are still too many things I don't like about the 2.4L block, but that is just me.

The 2.3L seems like a solid choice, for me, and probably a lot cheaper than a LR2.4. For a street car, you want a nice torque curve and generally the sooner it hits hard the better (yes I can downshift with the best of them, but I don't like driving around town at 5K rpm unless I am in my can-am car ). Most would be very happy with the 15% - 20% increased power of 2.3 and 2.4s compared to 2.0Ls, not to mention the broader torque curve. Either way, the 2.3 or 2.4 seem like better routes to take for STREET CARS.

The difference between the 2.3 and 2.4 is 0.1L ~4.3%. My guess is with identical setups the 2.4 should make at least 4% more power over the 2.3L (and IIRC AWD posted some REAL data showing ~ the same). 4% may not sound huge and most stock evos probably are within a 4% variance window, but 4% on a 500whp is a nice 20whp. That said, if you have a 500+ whp street car, you are in a special circle (small) and better know how to drive.

I like the fact that the 2.3L maintains the Evo block with oil squirters, wider spacing between the cylinders, and no changes needed for water pumps (minor) or cam timing (minor). I have a spare 4g63 Evo 9 block so I am leaning towards the 2.3L route. I like the 2.4LR option, but what started out as a relatively cheap toy has already started getting expensive.

 

A properly built 2.0 can go much higher than 9000^^^^. 9500-10500 is more like it and safely as well...safely is used conditionally, but nonetheless.

 

I have not seen any of the reputable builders say 10,000 - 10,500 for a 2.0L but OK...That said, what turbo would you be running to want to take the car to 10.5K rpm and what would the power band be like ??? My guess is if you are running to 10.5K, you are talking about a drag car with a power band from 6000 - 10,500 - hardly good for a street car IMHO.

 

Lets just say when you're racing bikes(R1, Hayabusas) with a 2.0L 6262 you need to go to 10,000 rpms to have a chance. But yea it is stupid to rev that high, I wouldn't do it unless I had some lightweight pistons, good rods and a fully built head. Thanks everyone for the input, I appreciate it.

I still think the 2.4LR is a better motor, with a Black you don't need to rev to the limiter unless you're going through the traps, when I go with the HTA86, I will most definitely be getting a 4.11 final drive though.

 

That will be an awesome set up.

The best advice I can give you is set a goal and stick to it. I've a wasted a ton of money with indecision. Best of luck to you.

 

Don't leave out the 2.2L option. 94mm crank. Best of both worlds.

 

when i build my tranny ill get that 4.11 drive

 

Not sure if they say it or not, but I do know they do it and it works. This is for both drag and road racing as well. I wont list names as to not step on any toes, but a certain winning Redline TA car constantly revved to over 10k and sometimes as high as 11,200, all on an off the shelf built block, nothing fancy in terms of oil supply either. I agree though that the higher rpm's are much more common in the drag cars where they only go a 1/4 mile at a time.

I personally run the HTA 3794 on my Buschur 2.0 ( I say run in present tense, but the build wont be done until the end of this month...ish). My car is 100% a streetcar, but I only drive it occasionally and when I do it is on the highways so that is why the higher rpms don't bother me at all. Power should come on at around 6500....maybe a bit earlier, and that way I have a solid 3k+rpm of powerband.

I agree that a powerband is different for everybody.

 

4.11 final drive will satisfy most evo owners stroker applications with the right gearing. However the LR 2.4 w/ HTA86 produces a lot of pwr & tq, you could even try 4.0 or even 3.73 final drive, again with the right gearing of course.