My03evo

iTrader: (1)

I have the clutch at the MAX adjustment and it's still a pain to get into 1st and Reverse, I gravity bled the slave (was alone) and the fluid came out right away with only 2 little bubbles. It's getting worse and worse so I can only point my finger to the master or slave, how can I narrow it down to which to replace? Once I pressure bled it if not much pressure comes out then it's the master? The slave isn't leaking so I don't see how else to determine if that's bad since it's such a simple device.

I'm ready to stop driving it because I don't want to do any harm to the trans
Car has 34k miles, clutch and trans has 5k miles
Pedal is pretty stiff and has good foot pressure
Also can I use any DOT 3/4 fluid or only from Mitsu? I know some cars are real picky with only oem fluid like honda

barneyb

Well, the master has about the same complexity as the slave.

You might try bleeding again with someone helping you.

KX250Fmotoracer

Need to bleed it properly first

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

A bad slave will fill up the boot and eventually pop it off. The master can bleed fluid up to the reservoir but the slave has no where for it to go other than out.

Did you adjust as shown on jacks trans website? Where does the clutch engage?

For bleeding, get a clear hose to run down to a bottle that fits on the bleed nipple. Crack it open and push the slave in as far as you can (this bleeds the area after the bleed nipple. Then pump the clutch 3 times. Fill the fluid, repeat. Gravity bleeding isn't aggressive enough to get trapped bubbles out.

EVO8emUp

iTrader: (30)

You didn't tell us the actual procedure you're using to bleed the system.

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

Ok so ignore my whole first post because it's not either cylinder, I pointed my little probe camera w/ detachable screen and pointed it at the clutch fork/slave and pushed the clutch in and it works perfect, moves instantly with no delay and proportionate per movement I move my foot so the problem is elsewhere.

I'm afraid to find out the clutch is bad even tho it's got like 5k miles on it and was installed at Buschur so I doubt it's something from being installed wrong. It's a $2300 clutch and I really don't want to pull this thing apart....I have no idea what else it could be if it's not the clutch??

What else can I check?


So I'm not confusing anyone I bought the car from someone, he had the clutch/trans/engine work done at Buschur, TOWED it back home, drove it around for 3k miles then I bought it and put 2k on it, it hasnt been taken apart since the install. It drove fine until recently, the shifting starting getting notchier and notchier and now it wont go into 1st unless I shove it into gear

Jrah2987

iTrader: (9)

You probably already did this, but did you check your bushings & linkage for any damage?

That's all I can think of, except for a synchro going out.

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

Yep bushings are fine and if they werent it wouldnt go into gear with the car off like butter.

I'm 90% sure it's the clutch, that one of the plates are sticking or warped or something....Could be a loose clutch or trans bolt backing out but with my luck the clutch is shot

CammedEvo

iTrader: (5)

Its your clutch. Chance's are the discs are worn out.. or 1 of the 3 is. 5k isn't long life... Are you sure BR tq'd the flywheel ring bolts to spec? And tightend them with a star pattern? ie. did you watch the install.

As stated before you did adjust the petal accordingly ? And re-adjust after break in?

Was the clutch new when you installed it or used/new rebuild?

Could you have gotten the clutch too hot and a floater warped?

or possibly a disc couldve been stressed by hanging the tranny on the clutch when installing it?

Any way you stack it. Somethings wrong in the clutch time for a rebuild / send other parts off to exedy for inspection. And ensure the install is done correctly this time.

Theres no way i could buy a 2300$ critical wear item and trust someone to install it who doesn't make 2300$ in a month

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't there when all the work was done, I bought it off someone with 30k, he put on around 2k maybe 3k and I put on 3k. He towed it to Buschur so everything was done "right" and he had the money to burn for the parts, labor and time to drive back and forth 16 hr round trip 2x. Basically dropped it off and came back in a few weeks and picked it up done.

Since Buschur has done so many cars and have way more than 5k mileage on their work I would say they don't do shatty work. Back to my issue I'm going to jack it up check the trans bolts and look through the inspection hole for anything out of place

8UpUrV8

iTrader: (9)

Any updates? I have the same issue on my Exedy twin/TRE trans.

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

Nah I took it out and I bought a new one to put in so I didnt have to deal with any nonsense since its my dd, once that I think about it it started doing it after I did a good street run so im sure the clutch got hot but these clutches should be made for serious applications and our cars should be nothing for these clutches to handle and not warp or whatever after one run.

I'm going to get a straightedge and put it across the plates and see if the plates did warp or not cuz Im still real curious what happened, prob will call exedy eventually too. I need to get to bed got work in a few hours so will update later on, let me know what happens with yours