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Throttle body shaft seals and proper plate sealing

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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #31  
Erik@MIL.SPEC's Avatar
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Originally Posted by boostedwrx
I can guarantee Aby has been doing this for years, I remember seeing one first hand and was wondering what the stuff was Makes perfect since and they have been doing it all along.

Just waiting for the coats to dry on mine..
It's one of the reasons our throttle bodies don't "whistle."
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #32  
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Nice work and helpful info!!
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #33  
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Anyone have any good tips on how to re-install the seals? I am not having luck getting them in without mucking them up and it's really ticking me off.
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by thebluesky
Anyone have any good tips on how to re-install the seals? I am not having luck getting them in without mucking them up and it's really ticking me off.
hmm.. I think I used a silicone grease and worked slowly to get the 'squared' in there, then gently tapped them in with a socket the rough size of the metal portion of the seal.. however now I'm having a tough time remembering exactly.. maybe that helps
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #35  
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i hear ya bluesky, i just did mine and ruined the first set. Had to buy another set. U have to go slowly and use very little force or they will come outta round and turn into junk.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #36  
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Yup, that's exactly what's happening. I'm waiting for set number three to arrive
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 11:27 PM
  #37  
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set 3?! thats tough man, i was uberpissed when I messed mine up. Then I got the TPS side in there and was a bit outta round, thought I would have a leak, but got lucky and didnt. Then a company I wont name took FOREVER to ship another set... Hope you get it squared away
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 06:06 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by thebluesky
Anyone have any good tips on how to re-install the seals? I am not having luck getting them in without mucking them up and it's really ticking me off.
Ok here we go, after messing up my very first seal I realized just put the shaft all the way through the tb and where the shaft is sticking out a couple inches put the seal over the end of the shaft and slide it into the the seal pocket then put that gold washer over the seal and use a socket, like the smallest you can that can still slide over the shaft and push down on the washer, I think I used like a 10mm then used a 3 inch extension on the end of the socket so I could apply hand pressure down which got it square into the seat then just tapped it the rest of the way home on the end of the extension (the longer the extension the better it will help with knowing its not crooked at first) and by using the gold washer it wont let it go down too far into the recess since it will stop when the washer hits the top of the seat bore. Holy run-on sentence haha.

That can work for both sides but for one of the sides, I believe for the rear tb bushing side? you can put the the same gold washer all the way down on the tb shaft then CAREFULLY and Slowly slide the seal down the shaft with the outside lip facing the black cam for the throttle cable then slide the shaft into the throttle body (into the front seal side), with lube of course and just slide the shaft all the way in and once it gets all the way in, push it to help seal it square then tap on the end of the shaft where the black cam is (dont hit the plastic, altho I did and was fine) hit the metal part till the sound tone changes to a solid tone then you will know the washer is seated against the seal bore and the seal is fully seated and obviously visually check it when you take it out. Use LOTS of lube, I used fluid film but I would use whatever abby recommends, its so the shaft doesnt tear up the lips of the seal which is a very tight seal and also when doing the last seal you will be putting the shaft through the first seal again and the lip can catch on the end of the shaft and where it's not fully circular . You can only use the last method on the rear seal because the black cam and throttle stop will get in the way of the tb housing, youll see what I mean if you try it. If I'm wrong on the which side you can figure it out.

Last edited by My03evo; Sep 5, 2011 at 06:15 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #39  
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I would almost just buy an upgraded TB if i was gonna do it again lol
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 09:17 PM
  #40  
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is that dry moly stuff seriously $200 a can? WTF

Last edited by prowakeskater; Sep 30, 2011 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by thebluesky
Anyone have any good tips on how to re-install the seals? I am not having luck getting them in without mucking them up and it's really ticking me off.
Aby has instructions on how to make a pilot tool to do the install. Might be in the beginning of the seals for sale thread.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by prowakeskater
is that dry moly stuff seriously $200 a can? WTF
Na the good Dow stuff is $40 I think @ Grainger. I paid for the same kind Liqquid used and it was ~$20 I think @ Grainger.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by boostedwrx
Na the good Dow stuff is $40 I think @ Grainger. I paid for the same kind Liqquid used and it was ~$20 I think @ Grainger.
you wanna sell your remaining stuff? works just as good i assume?


edit: Just bought the stuff in a can.

If anyone wants to buy it off me LMK, I'm only going to use a spray or two from it

Last edited by prowakeskater; Sep 30, 2011 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #44  
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This is great! Just wish I found it before I put my mil.spec TB seals in.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #45  
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I'm a little confused though. I understand that the plate has to seal, but how did you seperate the plate fron the tbody wall? did you use a blade and cut a circle once this stuff dried? Did you just force open the throttle?

I'm taking my tbody off soon to do this.
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