yea just moved the throttle plate it wasn't a big deal, and where there looked to be any really rough spots or uneven edges sticking up you can smooth it just a little with some fine sandpaper

 

Interesting, I've cleaned and rebuilt a number of DSM and Evo throttle bodies over the years and never needed any kind of coating to make them idle properly afterwards.

 

I did the coating a week ago and the car drives noticeably better

 

Liqquid - thanks for taking the time to post this. I will definately be using it the next time I replace my TB shaft seals, if not sooner.

Dan (drb)

 

I did this and didn't really notice a difference.

 

Wish I did this before selling my Evo. The idle issues were the main reason I sold it, after a year of dealing with a crappy idle.

 

I wanted to contribute something to the forum besides smart *** remarks which make up the rest of my posts j/k, for real I've benefited from others taking the time to post up pics and info so I wanted to make an attempt when I had the chance

On another note, I will be the first to say that a variety of other small issues had added up to cause my idle issues, and I am not surprised that not everyone can tell a difference, especially on stock ECU where it is going to just be plain better at year-round any weather drivability than standalones. The big thing though for me is that I'm a believer in not trying to re-engineer what the factory did all the leg work on, and there's a reason they did this from the factory.. no doubt it would have been cheaper for them to not do this, there must be real benefits from it and I think it is a very worthwhile practice.

The only thing different I'd say since I did this is due to Buschur having a plate screw vibrate and back out I'd use locktight red if I wanted more peace of mind.. not sure how easy that would come out again if you wanted it to but I guess it is better than the alternative!

 

I believe that original coating is to help prevent build up of carbon, Ford also coats their throttle bodies for this reason not for idle control purposes.
It doesn't make sense, the coating would eventually wear off from normal service so it doesn't seem like a very logical method of reliable long term idle control.

 

This is what I'm ASSuming as well. You have to remember, we have IAC's and biss screws. If the biss is properly set, it along with the IAC will make up for any amount of air bypassing the throttle plate.

 

It's a bingo!

 

yea that's what I had done to unknowingly compensate for the air going past the throttle plate when shut (after the first time I replaced shaft seals before i stumbled upon this.) Sure you can crank down the BISS to make up for the gap and if that works out well then there's no reason to go any further, this just happened to work out better for me.

 

Hey, no worries man. I'm all for trying new things. I actually did this to my throttle body as well. I just didn't get any special results.

 

Will this stuff from Birchwood work as well? It's used on firearms which is certainly a high temp application. Thanks

http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Case...5692705&sr=8-2

 

Hehe I almost used that stuff too. My father is a gunsmith and he had some laying around in his shop. He thought it would work fine.... but my ocd got to me and I ended up purchasing the expensive stuff I think you should give it a shot and let us know how it goes

 

According to the description its a clear liquid type lube. So, i'm not sure how tacky it'll be when it's sprayed. But I might give it a try cuz the expensive stuff sells for almost $300 a can after shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Force-842-Dry-...sr=1-2-catcorr