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Fix My ACD Problem and I will pay you!

Old Apr 6, 2011 | 05:58 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Migsubishi
I believe my pump is working due to the turning the key forward and holding the throttle down thing, I can here it and it sucks the fluid down in the resevoir.
mine (quite corroded) was doing the same.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #47  
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Having a similar issue however mines is temperature dependent... I haven't had mitsubishi pull the code yet however it goes away when the car is cool. It goes on sporadically during the summer heat season however in the winter it only goes on if the car idles for long (like 15+ minutes long) times...

Unit operates fine and bled fine too.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #48  
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From: NNJ
FYI... the ACD system corresponds with the ABS system. So if you have a problem with your ABS then all three ACD lights will come on also.

Last edited by hamx0r; Apr 6, 2011 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #49  
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check your battery and alternator cuz this happnd to my car too. and it was a bad battery. never had that problem after that
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by hamx0r
FYI... the ACD system corresponds with the ABS system. So if you have a problem with your ABS then all three ACD lights will come on us.
FYI - this is true I had a bad abs sensor and had both my abs light and acd light on (it would trigger 1/4 mile after moving) and when I replaced the sensor it was fine..

Then my temperature issue started occurring...
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:52 AM
  #51  
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From: NNJ
Originally Posted by bruce988jl
FYI - this is true I had a bad abs sensor and had both my abs light and acd light on (it would trigger 1/4 mile after moving) and when I replaced the sensor it was fine..

Then my temperature issue started occurring...
Lol yeah, it is exactly a 1/4 mile... took me awhile to figure this one out..
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 02:37 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by bruce988jl
Having a similar issue however mines is temperature dependent... I haven't had mitsubishi pull the code yet however it goes away when the car is cool. It goes on sporadically during the summer heat season however in the winter it only goes on if the car idles for long (like 15+ minutes long) times...

Unit operates fine and bled fine too.
sorry, but this usually means that your pump is about to go. here's the deal.. when ATF is cold, pump makes a bigger pressure, just like the motor oil, hanging around 100 psi when you cold start the motor. eventually when it warms up the pressure gets lower. when your car sits on one place idling, the temperature in engine bay gets higher, pressure falls - then you have this error.

by the way, you can read out the error code without having to go to dealer. turn off ignition, ground pin 1 on your obd ii port, turn the key on and count ACD lights flashes. longer flashes are tens, shorter are units. example: eight long flashes, two short - code #82.

Last edited by justastockevo; Apr 6, 2011 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 05:30 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by hamx0r
FYI... the ACD system corresponds with the ABS system. So if you have a problem with your ABS then all three ACD lights will come on also.
LMAO are you serious... I do have a problem with my ABS, I have to replace a speed sensor. So if that's true you just hit the nail right on the head for my car.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #54  
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Justastockevo, are you fixed after the pump refresh ?
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #55  
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it seems so, runs great.
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by justastockevo
it seems so, runs great.
So all you did was drop the front drivers side under panel lower it out. Dissamble, clean it up, put it back in and bleed it and that fixed it ? You didn't need to replace gaskets or anything ?
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #57  
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mine does same thing with heat when it gets around 80 or hotter all 3 lights come on and when its cooler temps its perfectly fine
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 03:26 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by thatmr2guy
So all you did was drop the front drivers side under panel lower it out. Dissamble, clean it up, put it back in and bleed it and that fixed it ? You didn't need to replace gaskets or anything ?
i have european evo, so it's behind the left rear wheel and has 3 solenoids instead of USDM single solenoid. other than that, the pumps are the same.

all we did is: dropped the pump, disassembled it (just like on the pictures, except for the electric motor cover part), cleaned it thoroughly, and yes, that fixed it. no gasket/bearings replacement, although i think that would be beneficial. it was not that dirty and oxidized like on that pics i've posted, but far from being ideal. now it's clean and working.
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #59  
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Sounds good looks like I have project to work on.
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 06:38 AM
  #60  
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i'd like to hear feedback from more users, i.e. part numbers for replacement bearings/gaskets, how to ensure sealing of the pump so it doesn't break soon, etc. have anyone looked into the issue? please post your experience..

btw, came across a UK store that sells solenoids/pressure switches for our pumps..

http://www.evoayc.co.uk/3.html
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