If you use their push/pull conversion (which I admit looks pretty ghetto....but works) then theres an adjustment on that as well as the clutch pedal adjustment. Both you can play with to get the engagement point where you want it.

From personal experience I prefer to have the clutch engage in the middle (how mine is setup now). The one on the push/pull mechanism is adjusted almost all the way in and the clutch pedal is adjusted 1/3rd of the way up. I think playing between the two will also alter pedal pressure (maybe) but idk I like it how it is and it doesn't slip even when it gets REALLY cold. Even down to -13*F it hasn't missed a beat.

 

I understand how to adjust the engagement point at the pedal and how the push-pull assembly works. I've taken the time to make sure that when the clutch pedal is completely disengaged that the top of the clutch fork is as far over as possible. My pedal adjustment is just where I like it. About two thirds the way up off the floor. Also keep in mind that if you were being accurate with the torque you are making them my car is making almost 100 ft/lbs more than yours so that might be why you haven't noticed any issues when it's really cold.

 

Slipping like a biotch now. Boooooo!

 

are you still dragging/launching it?

 

Have you tried any more adjustments? Does it still slip even when you warm the clutch up? You should also post mileage, number of launches/other abuse, and what the clutch looks like when you pull it out if this is truly the end of your clutch.

I'm at 8k miles, no launches, lots of fast shifting and clutch kicks (fun in the snow ), and generally heavy inner city driving and long distance highway driving. My clutch has no issues other than when DDing now it engages even softer than stock. But will grab hard if I let it out quick.

 

Seems like its not a weather issue. Apparently its at the end of its life? interested in knowing the mileage it lasted, as I am getting mine installed this week.

 

About 18k miles. I tried adjusting it and it made no difference. It only has about 10-12 launches on it and my power level hasn't changed from the numbers in my sig.

 

Odd, mine is still holding like a champ, maybe the quicker release from my QM Hyd TOB vs the "contraption" is aiding in this.

 

Curt how many miles are on your clutch? And how many launches? (if you can remember)

 

Wow, not many, 1500 max. 12 autocross launch's, zero on the street, maybe 5 at the track. I just had it out and it looked brand new, I was shocked, should outlast the car at this rate.

 

I thought you had more miles than that. I guess at the rate I'm going I'll be the first to find out how long this clutch lasts if 4xforce's 18k isn't the real lifespan. Although now I'm much less confident about launching it given he has problems with his now. Maybe the TOB does make that much of a difference.

My previous clutch was an ACT HDSS that I ran from June 2010 to Aug 2011. It had a total of 35000 miles (yes I drive that much, half highway half inner city), 15 road track days, 30 or more decent drag launches at the strip, 1 formal winter tracking day (epic high rpm clutch kicks), and one really botched launch on the street. The last one is what made it start doing the well known lock-out, but when I took it out it was still able to DD without an issue. I demand a lot out of a clutch.

 

Yeah this is not a good "launch" clutch at all for a big power car. I would say it may be the most reliable clutch for the price ever for an Evo though. SO nice not messing with that clip everytime you got to pull the trans! Mine does shift clean still on 9000+ 1-2 shift, im happy.

 

I contacted carbonetics about a replacement carbon disc. They said they will soon offer one for around $300.

 

Nice to know. I'm going with an ACT street disc for half the price. No more carbon on a daily driver for me.

 

CB (Or anyone else that has an input),

Sorry if this is kind of a newb question, but what would be the advantage of using a hydraulic TOB like the QM unit you use? (Besides not having the Carbonetic conversion contraption)

I'm trying to decide between the Carbonetic Twin kit and the Blade kit for my DD and was going to buy a new slave unit anyway to keep everything fresh but saw your post about using the QM TOB. If there is an advantage to doing a hydraulic TOB I might as well spend my money that way.

Thanks.