not fully built the bottom end is stock, have headstuds cosworth headgasket cant remember the specific size, cams springs retainers etc....

 

ive tried something similar to this.. tried to flip the bov around to make the pressurized side push the valve closed and still got same results

 

The wastegate has that adjusment part on it which is threaded about half way.. in theory in my head i would imagine if i tighten the wg arm (threading all the way down so no threads can be seen) this should alow the wg to only open the flap a little bit correct? or not as much as it is now which in turn might mean i can create more boost?? im not a scientist when it comes to this subject so i appoligize for stupid question i may ask. thanks for any more suggestions or things i may check

 

So, if the above quote is correct then you could try increasing wastegate spring pressure up to about 20 PSI, then the EBC will regulate boost starting at 20 PSI up to 40ish. From experience I know that this is how it works with an MBC. But, I know next to squat about EBC's.

When I initially read your opening post I suspected that your spring pressure might be too low for running that high of a peak boost level(38PSI).

Don't be fooled by that advertised 18 PSI rating of the FP actuator. I have one and as delivered from FP it opened at 14 PSI on my old Green.

 

I dono much about my evc either just know how to set it up and target boost and the offset. What spring are you talking about exactly when your talking about spring pressure? My wg spring?

 

Yeah, exactly, I was referring to the WG spring. Actually, in my little mind I think of it as WG preload. I don't think that the terms wastegate spring pressure and wastegate preload are synonymous in a strict sense. But, I initially if mistakenly thought of it as wastegate preload.

You probably need to preload the wastegate spring more. Rotate the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuator rod INWARD, clockwise which effectively shortens the overall length of the rod which will keep the flapper valve on its seat longer and make it more difficult for the diaphragm to counteract the preloaded spring pressure.

Before you start dicking with the actuator rod adjustment though you can try to find out roughly what your wastegate spring pressure is at currently. If you've never done it before you can approach it in a couple of ways. What happens if you turn your EBC down to its lowest boost setting possible? I'll bet that your peak boost level will be somewhere between 12 and 14 PSI.

 

Actually did this about a week ago and it hit 16 psi if I remember right. I'd go try it right now but had to send my fuel injectors in to get tested for leaks. But the actuator adjustment was only half way so I adjusted it all the way down to shorten it maybe this is my problem on why I can't reach boost levels I want. Maybe will help when shifting through gears was only hitting a peak of about 27 through 1-3 gear 4th would hit 30 because it was so long.

 

Yeah 14 to 16 PSI is too low for good transient response and quick spoolup. You need a minimum of about 18 PSI of preload on there for running 21 PSI of peak boost. As a rule of thumb, you'll want wastegate spring pressure to be set at a level just 2 to 3 PSI below peak boost.

I personally have no experience with boost levels above 27 PSI on my Old School Green. But, you are at a level where a 25 PSI WGA might not be a bad option. Before the 25 PSI actuator there were a couple of Meth injection guys running the 18 pound actuator at over 36 PSI. BlackCarbonEvo also runs relatively high boost levels on the 18 pounder.

Most of these guys ended up having to trim some threads off the end of the actuator rod though to optimize spoolup and boost holding. So, if you tightened THE TURNBUCLE END ALL THE WAY DOWN AS YOU DID HOW MANY THREADS ARE LEFT SHOWING?

 

Maybe I need to get the stronger one then. None of the threads are left showing now