Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

It's one of the highest. I saw a chart on bob is the oil guy...need to find it...

EDIT: Can't find it at the moment.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

that's the first place i checked. LOL

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

There was a bar graph breakdown of all the key additives in like 20 different oils, and Motul was near the top in each one. There were a few motorcycle oils with high levels of additives/protectants, but I can't find the damn thread. Grr.

That stupid graph is actually what convinced me to run Motul in my 2.3 when it's done being built.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

i'm a long-time Rotella user. the Zn/P are really, really good and i'm happy with it. i found Brad Penn to be not much more, but has even MORE Zn/P. if the Motul is close in price and has similar amounts, i'd consider it. for my setup, i still think Rotella is perfect. BP would just give me a warm, fuzzy feeling LOL.

**edit at the risk of turning this into (another) oil thread LOL:

here's some "expert" info i found. take it or leave it, but the info seems to be the same no matter where i look:

Mobil 1 V twin, zinc--1750 phosp,1600
Amsoil-zinc,1575—phosp 1425
Brad Penn,zinc 1500—phosp 1340-1400
Motul—zinc 1330?-- phosp 1339?
Rotella T6, Zn 1264 ppm--P 1147 ppm

the general consensus is that anything over 1200Zn is best.

FWIW i pretty much only track my car. i very RARELY daily it.

i've concluded Rotella is still a great oil, i may pay a bit more for the Brad Penn. no WAY am i paying the premium for Motul nor Amsoil nor Mobil 1.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Amsoil isn't that much if you have the "dealer" account. I pay $86 for a case of Zrod 10w30. So its about $20 more than 3 gallons of rotella. I found rotella turns black very quickly when used consistently. And I mean its dirty on the first drive around the block. I'm not fond of that. After running Amsoil I actually had to take the oil pan off because I dropped a valve spring keeper into the motor (many four letter words were said). After having run the Amsoil Zrod for 3-4 oil changes, the bottom end of the motor looked about as clean as new one. I was impressed to say the least because when I was running the rotella, I had the valve cover off at one point, and the head was pretty dirty. I wanted to take a rod cap off, but I read somewhere the stock rod bolts are torque to yield junk, so I left them alone.

Technical10

iTrader: (2)

Transmission oil choices. Motul Gear 300 is great and Redline 75w-140NS works great as well. And yes, I am talking 6-speed and 5-speed gear oil choices. GL-5 is what you want. As for any other brands or concoctions... not interested and cannot provide any input. Between the two, the Redline was smoother shifting for me, yet neither gave me any issues as far as 7500-8500rpm shifting. The only thing you may run into with the Redline is if you run it in really cold weather, and that I am referring to below 0-degrees F, it will be a bit notchier until it warms up. So for the trans, the Motul has a slight advantage.

Transfer case and rear end: Motul 90PA or Redline 80w-140. Again, I have run both and I prefer the Redline. I ran the 90PA for a while and after I depleted what I had, I switched over to all Redline oils because it was easier to find.

I drive on the street and autocross. I am usually in the top 10 for raw time and when the course is right, I have been FTD. I change my gear oil once or twice a year as part of routine maintenance--- I get to see what is in it and so far, it has remained clear. For the $100 it cost to replace oils, it beats a $2500 transmission job and not having the car for 2-months and having to pull the trans which is always a joy

Currently the '05 6-speed has ~1100 autocross runs and about 20k miles on the clock. The transmission ran on Motul Gear 300 and then after a new clutch was installed, Redline went in. That was about 2/3 through those on the Motul and the balance since in Redline. No issues. Transfer case was gone through by TRE and the rear diff is a MaxLock 12-plate.... both done before the first autocross pass. Transmission is still original.

With my 5-speed '03 I also run the redline gear oils as mentioned. To round it out as it seems it has been added, for engine oil I also have run Motul 300V 5w-30 and currently Redline 30WT race oil. Here I prefer the Motul over the Redline, but again I can get Redline easier and it has worked well now for my second season with it.

For reference, I always seem to search out TRE's suggestions...
http://www.teamrip.com/manual_transm...tion_info.html

http://www.teamrip.com/rear_axle_hyp...tion_info.html

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

I'm going to run the Motul in my Evo because it's a built engine. Is Brad Penn a full synthetic? I know that Motul is a super-high grade oil PAO 5? I can't remember, and don't excoriate me if that's wrong. But it's above the grade of Mobil 1, which is a PAO 3 IIRC.

Lots of Subaru guys run Rotella and like it. There was another additive that Motul had that some others didn't, and I can't find that stupid link on the oil guy site

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Brad Penn is not a synthetic, correct. but i change my oil really often anyway. usually before each event, so i'm not worried about that.
i've been running rotella so long, i honestly can't remember if it's more dirty or clean than other oils LOL

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

Long term tests conducted by BMW show that 1000 ppm or greater ZDDP content is usually sufficient for engines whose construction renders them sensitive to this EP additive. Your 4G63 however is not one of them, which makes this subject largely academic except for certain FP turbo users.

To be clear, GL-5 is what you want for gear oil, not for transmission oil. Perhaps this is what you intended(?), but the wording was a little confusing.


Brad Penn is a conventional oil.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

just to clarify, that includes the turbo? our engines are the LS1 of four-cylinders, as far as i'm concerned LOL. i just worry about bearing life. actually, i used to be. i have a ball-bearing turbo now.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

Yes, ball bearing turbos aren't an issue. Where ZDDP is important is in engine and turbo designs that employ two steel faces that rub against each other at extreme pressures. This applies mostly to flat tappet valvetrains, chain-driven timing gear in some engines, and steel/steel turbo thrust bearings in FP Red and Black turbos. Our hydraulic roller valvetrains, belt cam drives, and steel/brass or roller bearing turbo setups largely exempt us from requiring much ZDDP in our oils.

alleggerita

To my knowledge Brad Penn 20/50 is a semi synthetic. I run it in some historic cars and it performs very well there.

I wouldn't run it in an Evo as I prefer a full synthetic there. I run Shell Rotella 5/40.

Also it appears that Brad Penn is not a good idea with E85.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

Yes, you are correct.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

i'm familiar with the flat tappet issue. i used to use a very high-zinc oil in my Grand National. that's what led me to use it for my turbo cars also. now that i am BB, i'm looking to go with a different oil. if i'm not needing to worry about a crazy amount of zinc, then my options are WIDE open.

any links? i'm curious to know why.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

http://www.penngrade1.com/CMSFiles/F..._BRAD_PENN.pdf

E85 ready oils employ a phase separation inhibitor that makes them compatible with ethanol, particularly in cold climates. Oils that meet the latest API designation (SN) includes this update. Otherwise, check the manufacturer's website for clarification.