Contraindications for using Motul gear 300 in 6spd/TC/rear diff?
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Contraindications for using Motul gear 300 in 6spd/TC/rear diff?
I need some input from people that may know more about this stuff than I currently do. Last year I had all the fluids changed out in my car, which included the transmission/transfer case/rear diff. Motul gear 300 was used for all of them. I never put much thought into it cause I believed in the race shop's advice. Well I'm going to be changing fluids again and was looking into options.
I could go with Motul again, seeing as quite frankly I've never had a problem with it and I think I had a slight grind (mostly because of lazy shifting) 3 times in the past winter. All on cold start and temps below -15 celsius. Otherwise its been flawless.
Amsoil was another option but I'm pretty against it actually. I know this forum has a love affair with all things amsoil/exedy/buschur but I've used the engine oil and really it didn't live up to the hype. Motul simply performs better as an engine oil for me. The gear oil might be different but for now I'd like to steer clear.
Redline seems to be the proven choice. No doubt if my car was highly tuned I'd probably go here just because its known to be safe. But really my car currently is not highly tuned right now and I know theres a certain "drag" sort of feeling with redline in drivetrain components. Translating into worse mileage. Sort of important for me seeing as I average like 50miles a day.
OEM is always an option but its $$$ and only seems to be available through dealers. And why not use a better grade of oil if I can?
I've looked into compatibility with motul 300 and the recommendations and it seems to be not a problem (as far as I can tell). Meant for hypoid type gears and GL5 certification. Plus on the TRE website Jon recommended it for trans. And I just like how I can consistently break 300miles/tank if I run all motul. Any reason why I shouldn't be using motul again? Especially for TC/rear diff?
Also wth is the recommendation for the ACD? The service intervals don't even call for replacing it....ever. And what do people usually use to replace it? Again I believe gear 300 was used or some other motul when I had my clutch done by the same shop.
Advice appreciated! Condescension not so much!
UPDATE: DO NOT RUN ANYTHING EXCEPT DIAQUEEN IN YOUR T-CASE! Or suffer the deathwhine like me.
I could go with Motul again, seeing as quite frankly I've never had a problem with it and I think I had a slight grind (mostly because of lazy shifting) 3 times in the past winter. All on cold start and temps below -15 celsius. Otherwise its been flawless.
Amsoil was another option but I'm pretty against it actually. I know this forum has a love affair with all things amsoil/exedy/buschur but I've used the engine oil and really it didn't live up to the hype. Motul simply performs better as an engine oil for me. The gear oil might be different but for now I'd like to steer clear.
Redline seems to be the proven choice. No doubt if my car was highly tuned I'd probably go here just because its known to be safe. But really my car currently is not highly tuned right now and I know theres a certain "drag" sort of feeling with redline in drivetrain components. Translating into worse mileage. Sort of important for me seeing as I average like 50miles a day.
OEM is always an option but its $$$ and only seems to be available through dealers. And why not use a better grade of oil if I can?
I've looked into compatibility with motul 300 and the recommendations and it seems to be not a problem (as far as I can tell). Meant for hypoid type gears and GL5 certification. Plus on the TRE website Jon recommended it for trans. And I just like how I can consistently break 300miles/tank if I run all motul. Any reason why I shouldn't be using motul again? Especially for TC/rear diff?
Also wth is the recommendation for the ACD? The service intervals don't even call for replacing it....ever. And what do people usually use to replace it? Again I believe gear 300 was used or some other motul when I had my clutch done by the same shop.
Advice appreciated! Condescension not so much!

UPDATE: DO NOT RUN ANYTHING EXCEPT DIAQUEEN IN YOUR T-CASE! Or suffer the deathwhine like me.
Last edited by deeman101; Sep 8, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
have motul gear 300 75w90 in my 6 speed, cold shifts into first or reverse feel crappy (less into other gears), most likely it's too thick when its cold for my syncros. i'd like to change that stuff for something else.
please report your experience here
please report your experience here
Using this for the 6 speed

MT-85 provides superior gear and synchronizer protection, while its balanced slipperiness provides an improved coefficient of friction for easier shifting over a range of temperatures. This product is safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the damaging, reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils. MT-85 satisfies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W and 85W as well as SAE 30 and 5W30 motor oil viscosities. Recommended for GL-1, GL-3, and GL-4 applications, as well as where most special synchromesh fluids are specified
Available from MAP, Jegs, and sometimes Amazon
Diaqueen has worked well for the TC and Rear Diff

MT-85 provides superior gear and synchronizer protection, while its balanced slipperiness provides an improved coefficient of friction for easier shifting over a range of temperatures. This product is safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the damaging, reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils. MT-85 satisfies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W and 85W as well as SAE 30 and 5W30 motor oil viscosities. Recommended for GL-1, GL-3, and GL-4 applications, as well as where most special synchromesh fluids are specified
Available from MAP, Jegs, and sometimes Amazon
Diaqueen has worked well for the TC and Rear Diff
Last edited by icrnk; Jan 17, 2012 at 07:10 AM. Reason: picture too big to handle
thanks for that huge pic of red line oil can. might work good, but here it retails for $20/qt and just one dealer carries it. so it's a hassle factor for me personally. anyone using castrol syntrans multivehicle 75w90 (a replacement to smx-s 75w85)?
MAP has it for less but not sure on shipping charge.
Amazon has it for around $14.50 with $6.99 shipping
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I need some advice here, I have some leftover Motul gear 300 75w-90 GL5 LSD gear oil. I was thinking about putting it in the rear differential of my EVO VIII and then put OEM Diaqueen for the transfer case. This would'nt damage anything now would it?
The reason I ask this is because I have a race application gear oil in the rear differential, an OEM gear oil in the tc, and then possibly Amsoil for the tranny. I am running 3 different brand of oil for all 3 drivetrain components, I really hope it wont cause any premature damage, lol.
I need some advice here, I have some leftover Motul gear 300 75w-90 GL5 LSD gear oil. I was thinking about putting it in the rear differential of my EVO VIII and then put OEM Diaqueen for the transfer case. This would'nt damage anything now would it?
The reason I ask this is because I have a race application gear oil in the rear differential, an OEM gear oil in the tc, and then possibly Amsoil for the tranny. I am running 3 different brand of oil for all 3 drivetrain components, I really hope it wont cause any premature damage, lol.
Hi all,
Been owning my EVO 7 GSR in New Zealand for over 7 years now.
I understand this thread is old, but I believe its important to share my experience here.
As there are lots thread warning or scaring people about using none OEM oil in TC / rear Diff causing damage or break downs.
Personally, I do not believe in that "ONLY USE OEM Diaqueen" comment for a several good reasons.
1. In New Zealand, Mitsubishi dealer never actually brought Diaqueen into New Zealand and has been using Castrol "AXLE EPX 80W-90" in TC, and Castrol "AXLE LIMITED SLIP 90" in rear diff all the time.
2. I've been using "Redline MT90" in my gearbox / "Motul Gear Competition 75w140" in TC / "Motul Gear 300 LS in rear diff" in my EVO for the past 5 years with no issue or any funny noise at all.
3. Bill at Ralliart New Zealand even recommend the use of "Redline Shockproof Heavy 75w250", as thats what all their race car uses, but as a everyday driving vehicle I felt 75w250 being over kill and too heavy weighted. So end up using Motul 75w140.
4. Another EVO specialist called EVOPARTS here uses Elf "TRANSELF TYPE B 90" in TC with no customer complaint at all.
The most TC break down here are usually due to low oil level (Those of you did DIY correctly will knows that when first filled up in TC its better to check again shortly with a slow drive around the block as suggested in TRE) or crazy hard out launchers.
Lastly of the oils Ive tried in the past before I fully went to Motul,
TC:
-Castrol AXLE EPX 80W-90 from dealer = no noise notice and no problem for 6 months of usage.
-Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil = when warmed up, I can hear very very minor whining noise on highway driving so I took it out in the first day.
-Redline 80W140 GL-5 Gear Oil = when cold its making a different kind of noise, more like thick fluids in between gear, and makes the car a little sluggish when driving very lightly.
-Motul Gear300LS 75w90 = switch from Redline 80W140 GL-5 car feels lighter to drive and no noise at all which I was happy.
-Motul Gear Competition 75w140 = like the Redline 80W140 GL-5, you do feel abit sluggish when driving lightly, but again no noise at all.
Rear diff:
-Castrol AXLE LIMITED SLIP 90 from dealer = no problem with 6 months of usage.
-Motul 90PA = 6 months of usage with no issue.
-Motul Gear300 LS = switch from 90PA with no issue and been using this for the last 5 years, which I change them once each year with no problem at all.
Gear box:
-Castrol MANUAL VMX 80 75w80 from dealer = no problem at all until draining it out, the magnetic plug seems crazy amount of metal powder on it (excessive wear???).
-Redline MT90 = switching from Castrol MANUAL VMX 80, it is a little little bit harder to get into reverse in cold winter morning (-2 deg cel) when car is dead cold, but once warm a little it shift nicely. but might be a problem for those of you who live in even colder climate areas. When draining out very very little amount of metal powder on magnetic plug.
So hopefully, my experience can help someone here.
Been owning my EVO 7 GSR in New Zealand for over 7 years now.
I understand this thread is old, but I believe its important to share my experience here.
As there are lots thread warning or scaring people about using none OEM oil in TC / rear Diff causing damage or break downs.
Personally, I do not believe in that "ONLY USE OEM Diaqueen" comment for a several good reasons.
1. In New Zealand, Mitsubishi dealer never actually brought Diaqueen into New Zealand and has been using Castrol "AXLE EPX 80W-90" in TC, and Castrol "AXLE LIMITED SLIP 90" in rear diff all the time.
2. I've been using "Redline MT90" in my gearbox / "Motul Gear Competition 75w140" in TC / "Motul Gear 300 LS in rear diff" in my EVO for the past 5 years with no issue or any funny noise at all.
3. Bill at Ralliart New Zealand even recommend the use of "Redline Shockproof Heavy 75w250", as thats what all their race car uses, but as a everyday driving vehicle I felt 75w250 being over kill and too heavy weighted. So end up using Motul 75w140.
4. Another EVO specialist called EVOPARTS here uses Elf "TRANSELF TYPE B 90" in TC with no customer complaint at all.
The most TC break down here are usually due to low oil level (Those of you did DIY correctly will knows that when first filled up in TC its better to check again shortly with a slow drive around the block as suggested in TRE) or crazy hard out launchers.
Lastly of the oils Ive tried in the past before I fully went to Motul,
TC:
-Castrol AXLE EPX 80W-90 from dealer = no noise notice and no problem for 6 months of usage.
-Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil = when warmed up, I can hear very very minor whining noise on highway driving so I took it out in the first day.
-Redline 80W140 GL-5 Gear Oil = when cold its making a different kind of noise, more like thick fluids in between gear, and makes the car a little sluggish when driving very lightly.
-Motul Gear300LS 75w90 = switch from Redline 80W140 GL-5 car feels lighter to drive and no noise at all which I was happy.
-Motul Gear Competition 75w140 = like the Redline 80W140 GL-5, you do feel abit sluggish when driving lightly, but again no noise at all.
Rear diff:
-Castrol AXLE LIMITED SLIP 90 from dealer = no problem with 6 months of usage.
-Motul 90PA = 6 months of usage with no issue.
-Motul Gear300 LS = switch from 90PA with no issue and been using this for the last 5 years, which I change them once each year with no problem at all.
Gear box:
-Castrol MANUAL VMX 80 75w80 from dealer = no problem at all until draining it out, the magnetic plug seems crazy amount of metal powder on it (excessive wear???).
-Redline MT90 = switching from Castrol MANUAL VMX 80, it is a little little bit harder to get into reverse in cold winter morning (-2 deg cel) when car is dead cold, but once warm a little it shift nicely. but might be a problem for those of you who live in even colder climate areas. When draining out very very little amount of metal powder on magnetic plug.
So hopefully, my experience can help someone here.
Pretty much all the people that know better than I say to use OEM for the 6spd and (for my power level) the t-case.
So far, not a single issue and my car is only driven hard with very little daily driving.
I use OEM for the trans, t-case, and rear diff.
Just my preference, though.
So far, not a single issue and my car is only driven hard with very little daily driving.
I use OEM for the trans, t-case, and rear diff.
Just my preference, though.
I use gear 300 for the 6 spd box and 300 gear LS for the ACD transfer.. it is not the smoothest shift when going slowly, but when hammering around it is perfect..
also, gear 300 is both gl4 and gl5 spec
also, gear 300 is both gl4 and gl5 spec
I have/had 175,000 miles on my Evo MR. After 12,000 miles I put only Castrol Syntoq LT 75W-85 in my 6 speed. Worked/works flawlessly. In my TC I put Redline Heavyweight Shockproof. I did just read a post on Jack's Transmissions that not using Diaqueen in the TC can affect the ACD clutch packs. I never noticed anything, but hey, I am not a transmission expert.
I will be using the Motul 300 10W-40 fluid in my 2.3 when it's done being built. Very good oil.
I will be using the Motul 300 10W-40 fluid in my 2.3 when it's done being built. Very good oil.









