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Bent shaft on 71hta

Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #46  
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well Im glad I waited and didnt test out the 11.5.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #47  
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Guess Ill be checking my ish out when its off here again in the next few weeks.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #48  
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Best of luck, I honestly wanted to see this thing perform.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:32 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
Best of luck, I honestly wanted to see this thing perform.
I havent seemed to have any problems, but I still have to replace that comp housing seal, so when it comes off Ill check her out.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #50  
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They all look the same to me, after all they are from the same mold. I've been running 31psi on mine for a while now, lots of 1st-4th gear pulls to 120mph, no problems with mine as of yet.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #51  
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Yeah I hear ya and I think we will need more time and testing to say they are good. As it is there is little to prove any gain from this ..
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by wshihdnevo
I havent seemed to have any problems, but I still have to replace that comp housing seal, so when it comes off Ill check her out.
Ramz, how did your compressor housing seal get chewed up and how did you notice it? Or did you perform an epic fail during the 84mm FAP install and pinch it?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #53  
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So, if I'm reading you right, nothing was wrong with what FP did to your turbo, right?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by D Grade
Ramz, how did your compressor housing seal get chewed up and how did you notice it? Or did you perform an epic fail during the 84mm FAP install and pinch it?

Actually I ran it without a seal for over a year and somehow it finally started to leak. The FP cover didnt really come with any directions (as it is pretty easy install) or say anything about needing their special seal which kind of sucks and should come with all of their covers IMHO. But I did a boost leak test and found thats where the leak was coming from. So yes and no on the epic fail. It finally failed last time I went to go dyno the car.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
heres one pic.

I had a short conversation wtih Robert @ FP today. he mentioned thatt there was material missing which caused odd load on the bearing, in turn chewing the bearing up and allowing the wheels to touch the housings. In any case, the bearing and shaft bit the dust quickly. he also contributed this to the housing being non heat treated and moving during the heat cycle. The housing was not in good condition after only one heat cycle. its a paper weight.

The 11.5 was also examined closer by him, and he said mentioned some points:

The volutes are far from equal, the housing is ductile iron and did not appear to be heat treated from the look of the housing after one heat cycle. There was material missing from the exducer area of the td05 contour which is poor craftsmanship. I purchased a kinugawa unit from ebay. overall.. fail.. im using a genuine MHI 10.5 now.. the 11.5 is risky IMHO, you may get one that works fine, but I will NOT be making that mistake twice.

Also in any case, the result is less than stellar, and my notes above are subject to technical falacies due to having to intake, and retype info I heard at noon today... disclaimer

The end of the turbine wheel is well before that little area of "missing material" so i'm not sure what kind of problems that would pose? The area to the left of that is where the turbine rests, as evident by where your turbine wheel eat into the housing. From my inspection the turbine housing essentially looked like a ported 10.5 turbine housing with larger wastegate holes, and a larger turbine exit (62mm vs 60mm).
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #56  
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I just looked at the work order. It is explicit in the fault I experienced.. Will post later.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #57  
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Just weird, there are at least 3 other people running this turbine housing in the big thread, and only yours has had a problem so far. Performance hasn't been quantified yet but this failure is just odd. I ported that entire area of missing material to remove the step into the rest of the outlet of the turbine housing so mine would be worst than yours I imagine... unless yours had a machining error where the turbine sits. I checked the clearance of my turbine wheel before I installed the turbo and found everything looked the same as the OEM housing.

Looking forward to more information.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 05:44 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Guerillah
Just weird, there are at least 3 other people running this turbine housing in the big thread, and only yours has had a problem so far. Performance hasn't been quantified yet but this failure is just odd. I ported that entire area of missing material to remove the step into the rest of the outlet of the turbine housing so mine would be worst than yours I imagine... unless yours had a machining error where the turbine sits. I checked the clearance of my turbine wheel before I installed the turbo and found everything looked the same as the OEM housing.
Looking forward to more information.
As did I
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #59  
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Robert said the housing is ductile iron, but Guerillah found A3N stamped on the 11.5 cm housing indicating that its cast stainless steel. Ductile iron will strongly attract a magnet, but A3N will only weakly attract a magnet (if at all). Can someone with an 11.5 cm hotside put a magnet up to it?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by wshihdnevo
Actually I ran it without a seal for over a year and somehow it finally started to leak. The FP cover didnt really come with any directions (as it is pretty easy install) or say anything about needing their special seal which kind of sucks and should come with all of their covers IMHO. But I did a boost leak test and found thats where the leak was coming from. So yes and no on the epic fail. It finally failed last time I went to go dyno the car.
Extremely interesting. I used my stock orange o-ring and it was a pita to get on. Nothing a lil lube of the ring couldnt fix though. Whats the difference in o-rings? And I agree thats pretty stupid that the FP cover doesnt just come with the ring. Its a $200 cover, why not throw in a $5 o-ring?
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