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Walbro 400LPH intank pump ? Anyone got any info

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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #256  
Broham's Avatar
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From: va
David,

how much for "Buschur pump assembly grind services"?

thanx
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #257  
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From: Washington D.C.
i just made a write up broham, do it yourself man!
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #258  
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From: va
It shouldnt be too bad from what i've read. Just don't want to cut that piece. This is great news though. Now there are many pump choices. Is rewiring recommended for 500 dyno?
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #259  
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I don't know a polite way of saying this but that install is a serious hack job and the pump isn't seated in the top portion like you have it either..........for the rest of you don't do it like that. The two pumps are the same length, the pump has to go down into the assembly as FAR AS THE ORIGINAL pump to get a good seal in the upper section. You HAVE to cut the bottom of the assembly off like MAP showed to get it to go that far and work......

Also, I just realized from looking at everyone else's pictures you guys do not have the same wiring we have for the kits. That short black connector you guys are getting isn't what I have here and will NOT directly swap ends like I said. We have a different connector than the one supplied in kit number 400-0001.

I did use the correct sock that comes with the pump.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #260  
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I already had my setup re-wired, but yes I would re-wire this pump for a legit 500whp car. FYI, you will need a FPR for this car, there are no if and's or but's about it.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #261  
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Say what you want, but the pump was pushed in all the way and definitely locked in. I see no need in cutting higher on the cylinder, when the seal is already tight.

I will also further my testing on the seal/pump to get final results.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #262  
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We could grind the housing, change the connectors and put a clamp on these making them a drop in. I suppose we could drill the siphon too to help with the fuel pressure.

The pumps are suppose to be sold at $159, the install kits are $11 extra. I suppose if someone wanted to send the pump housing in and we did all the work, installed the pump and had it so you guys could just drop it back in we could do them for $250. That's $300 less than the double pumper.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #263  
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Originally Posted by REV.olution
Say what you want, but the pump was pushed in all the way and definitely locked in. I see no need in cutting higher on the cylinder, when the seal is already tight.

I will also further my testing on the seal/pump to get final results.
You do know about my pump, it's the same one you have and I can assure you yours is ****ed up. MAP agreed when I said the same thing about the other guy who did the "how to thread". You both have the pumps too far out of the housing to work correctly...........
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #264  
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From: INDIANA FOO!
Speaking of rewiring, has anyone posted a legit how-to on how to do it? I'm surprised there isn't one up yet. You guys use a different relay?
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 11:38 AM
  #265  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by David Buschur
We could grind the housing, change the connectors and put a clamp on these making them a drop in. I suppose we could drill the siphon too to help with the fuel pressure.

The pumps are suppose to be sold at $159, the install kits are $11 extra. I suppose if someone wanted to send the pump housing in and we did all the work, installed the pump and had it so you guys could just drop it back in we could do them for $250. That's $300 less than the double pumper.
Guess we have to wait on flow test results to make sure, but would you expect that this pump would support an BB HTA Green with mods on E85, or is that too much to expect from the single, and the double pumper would be the safer solution?
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #266  
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From: va
Originally Posted by David Buschur
We could grind the housing, change the connectors and put a clamp on these making them a drop in. I suppose we could drill the siphon too to help with the fuel pressure.

The pumps are suppose to be sold at $159, the install kits are $11 extra. I suppose if someone wanted to send the pump housing in and we did all the work, installed the pump and had it so you guys could just drop it back in we could do them for $250. That's $300 less than the double pumper.
Thanks for the quick reply. Once you find out some flow info, I will be the first to send in the core
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by SyZyGy1394
Speaking of rewiring, has anyone posted a legit how-to on how to do it? I'm surprised there isn't one up yet. You guys use a different relay?
The 400-0001 kit includes a wiring pigtail that plugs into the factory harness and has two female spade connectors for the pump itself.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #268  
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We just finished up a customers FP red setup with this pump. The pump needs a rewire kit plain and simple. Without our rewire kit we were able to get the car to about 520 whp and with it we stopped at 570 whp just starting to run out of fuel.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
Guess we have to wait on flow test results to make sure, but would you expect that this pump would support an BB HTA Green with mods on E85, or is that too much to expect from the single, and the double pumper would be the safer solution?


Im with this guy!! All I want it to do is support my hta green on e85, stock block!
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by Gleason at STM
We just finished up a customers FP red setup with this pump. The pump needs a rewire kit plain and simple. Without our rewire kit we were able to get the car to about 520 whp and with it we stopped at 570 whp just starting to run out of fuel.
E85 or pump? FPR or stock?

Now that everyone agrees this pump works. Who is gonna offer the best deal with a hardwire kit!!

Last edited by tsidrift1; Oct 7, 2011 at 12:41 PM.
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