''like button here'' quote if you ''like'' haha.

 

So how far out is it looking until this auto setup is up for sale as a ready-to-roll kit?

 

Thanks for the update!

 

At the rate we are going, and very soon being able to test it at high torque, I would say within the next few months.

 

 

I am trying to figure out how to post the log and show exactly what the shift speed is as a quantified result, but in the meantime it shifts 0.14 to 0.18 seconds which is the time it took me to consciously make the shift and not overshoot to third or something.

 

Here is a car with the same mods as Andrew but still as a manual for comparison with the Auto and how much power the planetaries and converter chew up-



Then the 2 overlaid-



Converter doesnt load up the same down low but you can see it parallels from 5k or so and up.

 

Nice data Aaron

 

Sounds like you need a better shifter!

Is the converter in the car stock still? I'm shocked to see the torque lower than a similar 5 speed set up. Was the auto car dyno'd in 3rd gear? What gear was the 5 speed car dyno'd in? Typically we see the auto's make crazy torque numbers that don't even make sense compared to the HP numbers, that's why I am asking.

Great work.

 

Could be an MD vs. DJ thing?

 

I don't think so R/T, I've seen it on Dynojets when we had one and when I've tuned cars on other DJ's. The converter in the car may just be real tight, that's why I asked.

 

Definitely need a better shifter, we didnt tape it but the 1 to 3 (missed second in an Auto...lol) was very easy so I had to focus on getting 2nd. This is a very tight stock converter. So tight in fact it seemed like there was barely any difference between locked up in an Outlander and where this one tachs with no lock up.

 

Also-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5mU4...mment_received

 

Impressive work, I will share this with the world.

 

Nice results and it is good to see people doing things outside the box. On my twinturbo 240Z (2850lbs w/driver) I retrofitted several automatic transmissions for drag racing.

1st was a Jatco 4N71B from a Mitsubishi Starion. Car dynoed very bad numbers that were somewhere in the low 300's, but ran 11.1@129.1.
2nd I made a custom adapter and swapped to a Powerglide, which again dynoed lower than expected numbers, but with no other changes vs 4N71B went 10.6@134.

My point is that you may find your actual track results are not reflective of the dyno numbers.

I see two challenges:
1) having a good converter built as this is not a standard application for converter specialists. This is something I soon realized and one of the main reasons I went from the 4N71B to the Powerglide.
2) without a transbrake or nitrous the car may be difficult to get into boost off the line due to the tight converter. How will you get the car into boost off the line?