just asking, a turbo is a bit expensive anyway... jsut looking to put some new headers, intake,exaust, maybe some other parts on my car.. just want a little more hp outta my lancer... so on that can someone suggest a good website to look up performance parts for a 03 lancer es?

 

ok i have a question id like to throw in too. i know alot of guys on here have the ff turbo on there evo, but how many have it on stock ecu? or cant run ff turbo on stock ecu?

 

You can run it on a stock ecu. James Reese car is on the stock ECU + SD as an example

 

ok thanks, if anyone has any more to and to this that would be great, i was told it cant be done

 

There's more to posting than just assuming everyone reads your profile to get any pertinent information you left out. You know what they say about assumptions; asses.

And I'm sure your emails to your boss at work look better? Why not type like that all the time? There's zero reason to let yourself slip on the internet when you have to type like you at least graduated high school for work, might as well keep in practice all the time. Hell, if this were a text message I would type it no differently. Not to mention that without direct contact the way you type and handle yourself online is the only gauge anyone else has of you as a human being.

And I know plenty about the technical benefits it provides. Simply routing air from the bumper vent to the air filter can drop AITs by a few degrees, and every little bit helps. Anyone here knows that, be it a pound of boost, a degree of timing, or lower intake temps. But there's still NO point in doing it on a car that gets driven on the street. You still have an intercooler blocking your radiator and I'm sure you get stuck in traffic just as much as I do, it'll really suck in the summer (be it in traffic or in staging) since you had to get rid of that pesky A/C condenser that was in the way. You're running a filter, and that's cool, props for being one of the few I've run across, but that's just the tip of the iceberg as far as issues you'll run into with this setup.

And as for tackling that comparison to a wheel style, it was just that, a comparison. People slam their cars with ridiculous wheels and stretched tires on their daily drivers, which is dumb. Fine on a show car, but there's no logical reason to do it on the street. And an FF setup is no different, fine on a drag car, but more of a hindrance elsewhere.

And you still haven't told us, is this a race car or a street car? I've stated my stance on this setup for both, and I'll leave it at that at this point. You're going to do what you're going to do, from the looks of it already spending your money.

 

There's no reason it can't be done. The orientation of the turbo has zero bearing on what the ECU does, but without a MAF you will need to use a ROM that's set up for SD and have the car retuned from the ground up on it. Pretty much all of the big power guys are running SD anyway, due to the limitations of MAFs.

 

a lot of anger in this thread. I do love the internet .

 

You obviously have nothing constructive to add what so ever, except to spout your crap about internet grammar or your basic understanding of the benefit.

The title clearly stated road racing. Doesn't matter if its a street car or race car. In the end were talking about road racing.

BTW you don't need to read my profile, only to see that in the left hand side of the side bar it says COLORADO. Lets not mention you assumed RPM instead of feet in the first place for some reason because 6000 rpm is some how relevant to intake temps.

Your first post was simply to tell us about hella flush references, and blowing up turbos and motors. Cool way to add something worth while Mr. English professor.

 

Wait... you're going to road race hellaflush?







Contact Evolutionary with regard to road racing on a half width radiator, I believe he can answer some of your questions.

 

I realize that every little bit less restriction counts for HP up top if you want big numbers but if you want cold air why not run an air box? My car has a pod inside a carbon box. I lined the inside with heat reflective material to keep temps down. I have a 5" snorkel routed from my front bumper where the existing vent is where I made a funnel to push the air through into my air box. The unit surrounds the pod completely and has a very small gap exposed to the engine bay, with the higher pressure of the air coming in all the heat is forced back to the motor. Total cost of the setup was about $250. To be honest I don't know why there is so many US cars running exposed pods...

That way you still have a full size rad for cooling and an A/C condenser plus a cheaper turbo setup and only losing minimal power from the short pipe leading to the turbo. Unless you plan on making 1000hp it seems much simpler.

 

Maybe because by 6000rpm on an FF setup (where obviously you've maxed the turbo and need more) the wastegate is shut and the turbo is transferring quite a bit of heat to the intake charge.

So let's say you've not maxed the turbo before you decide to remount it, then sure, the RPM argument is null and void as I'd guess the turbo is still being operated inside its efficiency range. You're still avoiding engine bay heat and getting the air from outside. You're also getting effectively the same manifold pressure at a lower turbo RPM because the turbo is being force fed air instead of having to draw it in, provided that you're moving at a high enough rate of speed that the moving air can create a positive pressure against the turbo inlet... though granted you are effectively filling a space that was otherwise a vacuum, thus making that possible at achievable speeds.

So on a non-maxed setup you're gaining two things: Higher boost at lower compressor RPM and colder intake air. If I'm missing anything else then by all means let me know.

So I'm still left wondering... All this for something that could be achieved with a $250 airbox mod and a couple turns on an MBC that wouldn't noticeably affect the life of your turbo? And then posting a thread asking if you're limiting the enjoyment you'll get out of the car on top of that? In the end, I just don't understand why you're doing it. I mean, you've been on about gains gains gains, but gains over what that couldn't have been achieved by being more efficient with your money? All I guess I'm looking for is the pure and simple makes sense logic behind your decision.

As for being constructive... I'm trying to be constructive for you here. I realize it's your car and you can do with it whatever you want, but I'm just failing to see the potential power or component life gains that justify the sheer amount of money dropped into a setup like this, while at the same time risking streetability.

And if you want to know about component damage due to these setups, talk to the guys who run Bonneville.

 

This doesn't sound right I thought WGs normally open in higher rpms.. they are closed during spooling, but soon as it hits full boost it opens...