I had a horrible problem wit my car stalling when I pressed the clutch in while coming to a stop. I have ETS intercooler piping where a pipe merges from the uicp back to the intake.


About 2 months ago I was on a pump gas tune with evo 9 turbo, evo 8 bov, and forge wastegate. The car stalled at random I'd say once every 5 stops.

I then added an fp red with evo 9 bov, fp wastegate. The car stalled(rpm dropped to 200-500) and then settled back up to around 1000 when I pressed in the clutch everytime I stepped on the clutch.

Tonight I put on a 3582 with tial wastegate, still have evo 9 bov. The manifold places the turbo too far to the left for the ets bov to mount to the intake with the coupler I have so I ran it VTA and went crusing around town.

The driveability is ABSOLUTELY insane. The car didn't stall at all and idled absolutely PERFECT. I honestly felt like I was driving my moms nissan altima. I didn't plug up the hole in the intake where the bov went as a side note. I have read on here that stalling could be caused by the MAS thinking there should me more air in there than there really is, and I'm thinking it could be that the hole being in the intake allows for more air to actually be in there tricking the MAS. Maybe it would work right if my mas was rescaled.


Anyone care to add any input? I don't know a great deal about cars this is just an observation.If anyone else whose had problems with stalling would be willing to try to disconnect the tube recirculating the bov back into the intake I would appreciate it and I feel it could be beneficial to evom. Thanks for reading


Corey


Video coming soon.

 

I feel if my theory is correct then maybe a MAS or MAF or whatever it's called Rescaling could allow us to run VTA BOV's and hold boost better. I don't know if my theory is off, or if rescaling the mas has been tried to run VTA bov's or not but just as I said, I'm not a car guru or anything. But I would like to stir the brains of those with more knowledge and try to help some folks.

 

You're kidding me right? For now I'll take you serious. Plug that hole asap and get your car checked out by someone that knows what they're doing. You clearly do not know much about turbo systems and should not be modifying your car yourself.

As for your stalling issue it sounds backwards. Turbo cars usually have the stalling issues when they still run the MAF and use a VTA blow off valve. The ECU thinks the engine is getting air that it's not when you shift/release the throttle.

Don't worry about any MAF scaling right now. Is your car even tuned?

 

Thank you for you condescending comment. It wasn't needed at all but thanks anyways.

The car is tuned for 29lbs on e85 on fp red...But OBVIOUSLY the car isn't "tuned" for 3582 since I SAID I put the 3582 on tonight and cruised around....Yes, I'm aware of the dangers of running an intake with a hole on the top However I drove like 3 miles and didn't get above 30mph and never hit more than a pound or 2 of boost. I just wanted to see how the car would run. And YES I am also obviously aware that these cars have issues with running a VTA BOV....Just wondering if youhave any real world experiences to back up your claims? My BOV is running VTA right now with 3582, 1450cc injectors, e85 and IS running better than my car did on 9 turbo and pump gas. Or are you just another mindless guy who read a once upon a time bov story, and is now a turbocharging guru, preaching to the choir?

It is commonly said over and over here again "Do not run VTA, your car will stall". However there are threads all the time with a title pretty close to "Car stalling, Help" And they are running damn near stock setups. There is more to this big picture and if MORE people would look into things further, rather than reading once upon a time stories and passing the info along like it was whispered into their ear straight from Jesus himself, This community would be better off.


I would greatly appreciate it if you would refrain from posting worthless comments in my thread. Thanks

 

just to be honest man im suprise ur car didnt cut out, sounds like it needs to be retuned with that hole plugged or a different intake pipe. as a side note, dont be a dick when you askin for help. another thing i wonder how long youre evo 9 bov with hold up to a 3582, cuz if u dont have driveability issues now oh itll be a lot worse when the bov goes bad.. so you know people are saying that because some aftermarket bovs cause huge stalling issues if not adjusted right your running a stock bov, the spring pressure on the stock ones are a lot less.. so if its driving fine take it up to 10 psi see what happens...

 

You should plug that hole on the intake pipe because it is allowing non registered air to be fed and in turn will most likely mess with your tune by not running the correct fuel table per actual load.

Also, I have been Venting my OEM crushed bov for a really long time. Never had any stalling or any adverse affects on my car.

 

I'm suprised too it didn't stall too. And your right....Just the way the guy replied really got under my skin.... And the BOV should be fine. I will only be running 25-26lbs.I guess we'll see.

 

Yeah, I'm going to plug it back up before I start retune. The last tune was done with the bov recirculating back into it. I'm not going to run the risk of sucking a rock up and tearing everything up. So I am going to plug the hole up. Put the bov back on it, I don't know. But I will plug it up. I honestly think that the air going in the hole is registered....If it wasn't then the air from the bov wouldn't be registered either and it wouldn't matter if bov's were recirced or vented. I guess maybe since the air outside is inconsistent, wind speed, direction, it could mess with stuff. Not sure though. I'm really glad to see you venting with no problems!

 

I wasn't trying to be an assh0le, just sincere. What I said was a lot nicer than what most people would have said.

I honestly wouldn't boost the car at all since you're not tuned for that setup, and wouldn't drive the car at all unless you plug that hole. Was your car even tuned previously when you had the Evo IX turbo and running pump gas? I don't see how your car could possibly run well at all in its current state.

No I'm not some e-thug that just reads things on forums and call myself an expert. I've been around turbo cars and tracking them long enough to know what I know. I went through several bypass valves on my Evo 8 before I found one that worked well. While still running the MAF, the APS twin vent seems to be the best option. The Evo IX bypass valve still bucks at low RPM, and I feel doesn't release as well as the APS.

If you convert your car to speed density you could run whatever VTA blow off valve you want. Contact some of the good tuners on here and they could help you out on that.

As for anyone who has stalling issues while running the OEM bypass valve, they probably have a leak in their system somewhere. All the air is recirculated, there should be no stalling ever.

Again, not trying to be a dick but you don't know what you're talking about. The air isn't going to be registered unless it passes through the MAF. Wind speed/direction will have no affect on anything. The air still needs to pass through your air filter which is in the engine bay, then through your MAF. Any air going through that bypass valve hole in your intake pipe is unmetered, meaning the ECU doesn't know about it, thus you're going to run lean. I'd be more concerned about that then sucking up a rock.

 

The reason they have stalling issues is because the vta bov cracks open at idle and becomes a large air leak.

I run a tial bov with the correct spring pressure on all of my cars and have never had an issue.

But for you, sounds like your tune is ****ed up if it runs better with a huge air leak.

Just my .02 cents