I used synthetic oil for the 1st 500 miles (drove gently), changed the oil and filter.

Then regular oil for the next 500 miles (drove to redline occasionally), changed the oil and filter.

Then regular oil for the next 700 miles (drove to redline occasionally), changed the oil and filter.

Then synthetic oil for the next 1300 miles (drove normally), changed the oil and filter.

Since then I have been using synthetic oil, and changing the filter every 3000 miles.

 

I just wanted to find out what u guys used cause the show Super TNR TV guys said that for the first 1500 miles use non-synthetic then after that u can use synthetic and this is because synthetic is too slippery

 

I think we had this whole discussion before... do a search on it.

You do NOT have to use regular oil to "seat the rings". It may have been the common-knowledge thing to do in the old days, but it is not necessary for modern engines. If that was the case then all of the performance cars whose manufacturers specify the use of only true synthetic oil would be trailing clouds of smoke as they go down the roads due to their "unseated" rings.

Not sure about you, but I haven't seen many new Corvettes, AMG Mercedes, Vipers, Aston Martins, Cadillacs, or even Evos leaving a smoke screen behind them due to maintenance including only synthetic oil changes.

 

Thats what i wanted to do but I don't know about voiding the warranty. What if for some reason, the dealer finds out you put regular oil in. That would suck

 

Not sure how the dealer would know regular oil was used and then changed to synthetic. But even if they found out, I simply could not be happy burning oil and having a factory warranty.

I also question if Mitsubishi would install new rings and hone the cylinders if I was burning oil. My general understanding is that the manufacturers seem to find burning oil acceptable and within their standards.

 

Why waste your money? Do what your car manual recommended. Save money and not void warranty.

 

I definitely did not save money during break-in, only increased the vacuum readings. Not sure if this would have happened anyway with synthetic oil.
Not sure if this is important to anyone else either.

I will definitely use synthetic to protect the turbo bearing now that I am past break-in.

 

???
With most new car, the piston rings is not completely seated. So the breakin process is really a process to help the piston rings seat properly with the cylinder block. There is many breakin process. But the most important rule is not to rev your engine too high (redline). By the end of the breakin process, your engine will perform the best.

 

Can I get a reasoning for this? Seems counter productive to me.

 

Dun go 2 no tracks
Though seriously, im not really sure. Just go with the others, like wait tull it is "broken in" before doing anything to it, if u dun wanna void ur warranty, but may wanna mod be sure 2 ask ur dealer what u can mod, and cannot. ppl get screwed over this, and tha track thing, I read recently that some ppl are spyin on ppl, and reportin 2 mitsu what ur doin, (if u "race" *which u usualy do on a track*) it voids ur warranty, tho ppl are sayin its jus some pissed off punks, disgerunted track employees, dealers, etc.

 

SERIOUSLY consider the brake advice. A number of us have warped rotors with only a few thousand miles, and no track days or anything. I for one only followed the Mitsu advice and took it easy on the brakes, but I suspect a better break-in procedure like those mentioned above may have helped.

And I would ask them to check the alignment. A number of people including myself have reported bad alignment on delivery. My expensive tires are wearing funny due to this.

As far as dino oil for break-in, I think that's a very bad idea. If it were necessary, Mitsu would've filled it with dino oil from the factory. I'm sure this wasn't just an oversight on their part, the car is supposed to use synthetic during break-in.

 

To answer your first set of questions, ask the dealer for a price that is at or below invoice. There is no need to pay sticker. The Evo's don't seem to moving that fast. You are close enough to Atlanta that you may want to come up here if the prices are high in FLA. The invoice prices fall out like this:

$26891 (invoice)+ $418 (spoiler) + $653 (roof) = $27962

If you aren't planning on mods that would void a warranty, and you plan on having the car for a while, get an extended warranty. The one I had for my Eclipse has paid for itself a few times. It also helps when you go to sell the car later.

I hadn't heard about the alternate break-in for the breaks until just now. I've been taking it fairly easy on them. I've got about 100 miles left on my break-in and then I'm planning on getting the oil changed. I'll probably go a little easy on the car for a little while just to make sure everything is working ok. I’m a patient person and I know I’ll be with the Evo for several years. There will be plenty of time to hit it hard.

Good luck on your purchase and best wishes,
f86sabre

 

One more thing: I know there are no front plate laws in FL, but make sure they don't mount the front plate bracket. It requires a 1/2" hole in the bumper. (eek!)

Other than that, follow the brake advice and keep her under 5k rpms for 600 miles, then ease into the upper revs (example: I did under 5k for 600 miles, then started getting to 6k gradually, waiting until 1000 miles to hit redline, and that will be gradual as well). My entire break-in process will probably take me 1200 miles.

I also just changed the oil (M1 10W30 syn) at 700 miles last night.

Try to be nice to your clutch. Don't pull out into traffic and gun it immediately, give yourself time to get rolling first. I found that 1st gear was too quick to 5k to be going WOT, so use partial throttle in that gear. 2nd is almost as damn fast. I also haven't downshifted or rev-matched much. Again it's all about babying that clutch for a while...

Also keep it under 100mph for the first few hundred miles. You have to break in the drivetrain too ya know! Try to mix it up about 80/20 city/highway driving.

Now go out and buy one, they are a riot!

 

Thanks for the advice guys! I will be bedding my brakes now - and if they put a hole in my front bumper there will be hell to pay!

oh and I told The dealer 28,600 for the car - I will not go any higher.

 

Another thing: make sure they don't put dealer stickers/badging on the car and tell them you will refuse the deal if the car has more than x miles on it! (you decide what x should be, I said 5 then went to 10)