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Evo Engine Break In [Super Hyper Mega Merge]

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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:35 PM
  #76  
Sweft's Avatar
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Perhaps you should read more closely..

Although the example here is a motorcycle engine, these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines;
Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
even Lawn Mowers !!
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:44 PM
  #77  
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From: Danville Ca
Originally posted by Sweft
Perhaps you should read more closely..

Although the example here is a motorcycle engine, these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines;
Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
even Lawn Mowers !!

so have you followed the suggestions outlined on the website yourself?

if so which car.

Personally I know several people who has had success with this method: Drive the car normally and follow the manf. guidelines. Then after the break-in period is over, take the car to a track and flogg it. (road course not 1/4mi).

Having done that the engine when put on a dyno showed 15hp more then normal. (it was put on the dyno with about 10K on the engine).
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 03:50 PM
  #78  
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Lancer Evolution comes with Mobil 1 SYNTHETIC from the factory. The important thing on break-in is you don't dump your oil out right away. Wait till the first change interval, or if you're concerned, change it the first 500 miles then wait for 5000 to appear. Lancer EVO can only use synthetic oil or you void the warranty.

Originally posted by Sweft
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 04:05 PM
  #79  
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This whole idea of mandating that you drain your factory synthetic crankcase fill for correct break in is complete bull. This is one of those old wives tales that synthetic oil is more slippery to the engine vs a conventional oil. Companies such as Royal Purple keep this voodoo going by claiming "more HP, more torque, yadda yadda." The only thing you getting more of is something which is needs a shovel.

Synthetic oil lubricates NO differently than a dino based oil. Conventional vs Synthetic oils perform differently (in terms of wear) depending on the additive package that is blended into the base stock, be it synthetic or conventional. So in simple terms, just because there's synthetic oil in the crankcase does not necessarily mean there is reduced wear compared to an equivalent dino based oil. There are major advantages to synthetic over conventional in the areas of oil pumpability when cold, high heat performance, and others.


Switching a new Evo to a dino based oil decreases your oil's ability to handle the heat of turbo bearings as well as resistance to boil off / formation of deposits. After owning two different turbo cars, you do NOT want to screw around with running a non Group IV or better synthetic oil in a turbo application.

Go with the factory manual. Somehow if Porsches and Corvettes that come with Mobil1 as factory fill break in correctly, I'm sure the Evo will as well.

DF

Last edited by diesel_fan; Mar 10, 2003 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 04:13 PM
  #80  
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How you break-in a new motor is subjective to your driving habits. Drive it normally and do not abuse the car...
Yeah... We are talking about an Evo here... It's hard to remain passive behind the wheels...
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 04:32 PM
  #81  
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From: Big Red Country
Im planning on having my oil changed at 500 miles, give or take 100 miles. I was on my350z.com for a long time and there are alot of very good imfo. on that page from break in to waxing your car.
They said that it is good to have your oil changed the first few hundred miles to get loose metal frags out of your engine.

Thats what im doing,,, and my first oil change is free , so what the hell!
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 04:51 PM
  #82  
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I'n not so sure about 20 miles for an oil change. but my advice is this...............I would change oil fairly quickly after delivery and deffinitely before your break-in period is over. the reason is because no matter how good the machining process is, there are always metal particles floating around inside the engine. and no matter how good the oil filter is, there is always the possibility that these particles will escape the filter and scratch metal surfaces. so it is important to get the oil changed ASAP.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 04:52 PM
  #83  
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From: Danville Ca
loose metal frag theory/idea was probably valid back in the 50-60-70 but I doubt with modern tolerances it's really necessary. also if there were "metal frags" wouldn't the oil filter catch them?
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 04:59 PM
  #84  
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From: Pottstown, PA
Originally posted by Sweft
He says to change oil after 20 miles... anyone have isight on this?

That's what oil filters are for. Anything smaller that gets through the filter will not cause significant damage... just do the first change at around 2500 miles or so...or whatever specifies for the first oil change.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 05:30 PM
  #85  
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Im going to change mine around 700 or so. Any problems with taking this on the 1/4 mile after this break in. Got some drags lined up for this coming weekend. Currently at 450 miles. shoud have over 700 by then.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 06:30 PM
  #86  
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Here's my break-in plan:

first 600 miles:
  • warm the car up very slowly before driving
  • avoid boost if at all possible
  • no more than 5000 RPM, possibly no more than 4000
  • vary speeds as much as possible in that time - no highway cruising at 70mph consistently, etc
  • change oil, not filter
After 600, up to 1000 or 1200
  • take it up to redline, but gently
  • no full throttle
  • still consistently vary RPMs - speed up and down on the highway, etc
  • change oil and filter
After 1000 or 1200 miles, drive it like you stole it.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 08:04 PM
  #87  
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Ok. Here is my take. I have pretty extensive knowledge on break in and power gains. I DO see higher hp #'s from cars that are broken in hard...so I believe his theory is pretty accurate. Just as an example I purchased a new Mustang GT back in 1988 and ran the **** out of it from the day I bought it. It put down some very impressive dyno #'s for a stock Mustang and it was very impressive at the track..producing high #'s for stock. It was sold at 150,000 miles and STILL ran 13's stock and ran like it was brand new.
With my cars I have found it is best to run them hard every now and then during the break-in period. I have owned and raced a bunch of cars over the last 15 years and have been successful in them being reliable and performing well. I also change the "break-in oil" at around 500-750 miles.
I do want to say I don't run them full tilt until about 1500 miles. After that, anything goes
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Old Mar 21, 2003 | 11:19 PM
  #88  
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From: NR Reading PA
Dave Buschur's breakin.....

Dave posted this on his website as a response to a question. This is vintage Buschur....

"Break in procedure? I broke this one in the same way I have broken in every single thing I have ever owned. I bought it or built it, then started it and held it to the floor. I believe in breaking something in the way you are going to drive it. The car had abour 180 miles on it when it hit the dyno.
If you want to get products to market that work before everyone else you can't wait around for a break in period."


Then another quote....

"I have driven alot of cars, this EVO is probably the best overall I have ever been in."

I am following the recommended guidelines, but thought this was worthy of pointing out.

Speedlimit.........
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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 12:52 AM
  #89  
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no ***** **** from them
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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 05:11 AM
  #90  
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nice post...
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