Evo Engine Break In [Super Hyper Mega Merge]
Actually, not only is there nothing wrong with it, its probably good for your engine. Something about properly sealing the ringsor something... I'll post the link when I find it in a minute.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It even says at the top of the page, although the example is a Suzuki, it applies to all engine types. Everyone about to get a new car should read it!
It even says at the top of the page, although the example is a Suzuki, it applies to all engine types. Everyone about to get a new car should read it!
Void the warranty? No way. First of all, how would they know? Second of all, the car should be able to run over 5000 rpms right off the assembly line. Read the information from the link above. It explains is all pretty well, especially this point.
The number one cause of engine damage: Running the engine hard without warming it up first!
The number one cause of engine damage: Running the engine hard without warming it up first!
i was just posting what i heard and if it were true all they have to do is plug into the computer port to read the rmps thats just what i have heard i dont know if its true or not
I think we should force them to do that check before we take delivery to see if the techs were doing it. I know some people yesterday were reving the engine while in neutral just after turning it on. It wasnt even my car and I told them to stop.
Where are you guys getting this "breakin" information??? I ask because most any car you buy is good to go right away. Engines are broken in the moment you start them. However if the engine is a specialty engine that was built especially tight then it would be wise to take it easy, but in all my years of experience there was never a rule for breaking in a new car. As for checking the engine at the dealer they would need to have some sort of datalogging utility built into the ECU. If they have it then they can find out anything they want.
I highly doubt you are doing harm. SO, just go out and enjoy the car. Just let the engine cool before you shutdown and give it a couple minutes to warm before you start pushing boost into. If you don't then you will run the risk of seizing a wrist pin or something like that.
Have fun!
I highly doubt you are doing harm. SO, just go out and enjoy the car. Just let the engine cool before you shutdown and give it a couple minutes to warm before you start pushing boost into. If you don't then you will run the risk of seizing a wrist pin or something like that.
Have fun!
SO which is right? The hard break in or the easy break in?
I was told to always drive it the same. If you plan on driving it hard, break it in hard.
With such polar opposite opinions, only one can actually be right. Maybe we need people who did it two different ways get their cars on a dyno (the same one preferably).
I was told to always drive it the same. If you plan on driving it hard, break it in hard.
With such polar opposite opinions, only one can actually be right. Maybe we need people who did it two different ways get their cars on a dyno (the same one preferably).
It's an interesting debate...
Motorcyclists in general feel that breaking it in hard is correct, while dragsters are adamant that soft is the way to go. I assume that manufacturers put the engine under extensive rev testing, but want to be EXTREMELY safe about your new car, so recommend you drive it real easy. But it's kinda confusing with all of the differing opinions, especially when your sales rep tells you the best place to test 0-60 where there are no cops the day you buy it.
Motorcyclists in general feel that breaking it in hard is correct, while dragsters are adamant that soft is the way to go. I assume that manufacturers put the engine under extensive rev testing, but want to be EXTREMELY safe about your new car, so recommend you drive it real easy. But it's kinda confusing with all of the differing opinions, especially when your sales rep tells you the best place to test 0-60 where there are no cops the day you buy it.
I've read that motoman study. I'm skeptical a bit since he's got a lot of statements with no statistics. Informative and subjective it is, but scientific it ain't. No disrepect intended to motoman or whomever. Maybe motoman's approach is valid and accurate for engines that spend the majority of their time on the track where an engine tear down after a few seasons isn't a big deal. I agree rings have to seal, whether or not his informal and general motorcycle assessment applies equally to an Evo or base Lancer's (or any passenger car engine) is another matter.
Engine break in is a reality whether it is in a manual or not. Just read any C/D long term test for a bit of enlightenment. A new vehicle almost always takes more time for 0-60 than when it accumulates around 30k and is retested. Why? The motor has literally 'loosened' up since opposing surfaces on bearings and rings have had a chance to mate with each other forming surfaces that offer the minimum possible amount of friction to each other. It's this mating process that's the hot potato in terms of how fast it happens and over what time period.
The concept of having different cars dyno'd that followed a "hard" vs "easy" break in is interesting, but statistically a handful of cars may not be enough of a sample group to base conclusions on about what is right or wrong. It certainly would qualify as informative though.
I've always followed the rule pounded into my head from Dad..."Don't beat on it. Don't baby it. RTFM and Enjoy it." Although overly general, it accomplishes what I believe is a sane break in and producing a motor that won't turn into a 1qt per 1k oil burner down the road. Your goal may be different , so I'd close by saying "Use the force", but don't jump to lightspeed too soon.
DF
Engine break in is a reality whether it is in a manual or not. Just read any C/D long term test for a bit of enlightenment. A new vehicle almost always takes more time for 0-60 than when it accumulates around 30k and is retested. Why? The motor has literally 'loosened' up since opposing surfaces on bearings and rings have had a chance to mate with each other forming surfaces that offer the minimum possible amount of friction to each other. It's this mating process that's the hot potato in terms of how fast it happens and over what time period.
The concept of having different cars dyno'd that followed a "hard" vs "easy" break in is interesting, but statistically a handful of cars may not be enough of a sample group to base conclusions on about what is right or wrong. It certainly would qualify as informative though.
I've always followed the rule pounded into my head from Dad..."Don't beat on it. Don't baby it. RTFM and Enjoy it." Although overly general, it accomplishes what I believe is a sane break in and producing a motor that won't turn into a 1qt per 1k oil burner down the road. Your goal may be different , so I'd close by saying "Use the force", but don't jump to lightspeed too soon.
DF
hey my mitsubishi master tech at my local dealership told me to drive my 2003 lancer the way I was always going to drive it,
when I left the lot it was wide open, and has been ever since.
No problems yet "yet" bieng the key word here.
18,000 miles since october 11th but will keep you posted, as I
drive my car about 150 miles per day.
mostly interstate but every chance I get, it's ***** to the wall wide open.
when I left the lot it was wide open, and has been ever since.
No problems yet "yet" bieng the key word here.
18,000 miles since october 11th but will keep you posted, as I
drive my car about 150 miles per day.
mostly interstate but every chance I get, it's ***** to the wall wide open.


