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Doing a full rebuild have a few questions

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Old Nov 22, 2011, 10:36 PM
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Doing a full rebuild have a few questions

Ok im 19 and its my first time building a engine but i thnk i have it all down packed just have a few questions im unsure about please help thanks.
I have a slowboy racing 4g64 with 87mm weisco pistons and manly hplus rods the block had low compression in cylinder 1,I tore it all down had the block honed and had the piston to wall clerance checked it was withinn 1thousands of a inch as told by the machine shop.Im going to replace everything and i dont really understand the torque specs or maybe im overthinking it?
 
15 ± 1 ft-lb+90° TO 94° -so that means 15ftlbs then plus or minus 1ftlb then a 90to 94 degree turn what tool do i use to get a exact measure ment of 90 degrees i know its just a right angle or a L but i want to get everything dead on.

Next im going to order bearings i have acl in their now should i keep them or go with clevite's im planning on makeing 350-400whp

Im going to be using 30wt oil on the arp rod bolts as well as the stock main bearing bolts im getting mixxed answers on wat the torque specs are.

And for the main bearing bolts torque its 18ft lbs then plus or minus 1ftlb then a 90degree turn how much torque is that in total?

People say 50ftlbs other say 60ftlbs wich one is it for the rod bolts on the manley's the rods have the arp 2000 bolts in them ?

I wanted to use plastigauge to check my clearances but everyone says dont use it at all why ? and what should the specs be for that and how do people make them bigger or smaller ?Im guessing by increasing the torque or losening it on the cap is the were that 90-94 degrees of play comes in?

What should my ring end gaps be ? i was thinking .018 1st ring and .022 2nd ring is that good for my power goals


Old Nov 22, 2011, 10:42 PM
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15lbs plus or minus a pound is 14...15...16 any 3.... and a 90 to 94 degree turn is an L as you stated...
Old Nov 22, 2011, 10:49 PM
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45ft-lbs on the ARP rod bolts. Your rings gaps you listed would be perfectly fine, some people over-complicate things like that.
Old Nov 23, 2011, 03:17 AM
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Who is balancing the rotating assembly?
You or the machine shop
Old Nov 23, 2011, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by izabran
15lbs plus or minus a pound is 14...15...16 any 3.... and a 90 to 94 degree turn is an L as you stated...
Thanks that's what i figured
Old Nov 23, 2011, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by okevolutionVIII
45ft-lbs on the ARP rod bolts. Your rings gaps you listed would be perfectly fine, some people over-complicate things like that.
ok so its 45ft-lbs with 30wt oil or molly lube?

Originally Posted by catman78
Who is balancing the rotating assembly?
You or the machine shop
I noticed my block had blue marks i was just going to line them back up but if not how can i balance it my self?

Last edited by bigturboevo03; Nov 23, 2011 at 05:09 AM.
Old Nov 23, 2011, 04:55 AM
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Unless you work in a machine shop then you can't balance it yourself.....get the crank, pistons, rods, flywheel and clutch balanced. So it's basically anything that's connected to or is spun by the crank
Old Nov 23, 2011, 06:25 AM
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If I were you I would have the machine shop balance the rotating assembly and put together the lower end.
They've done it hundreds of times and you've never done it, I think it's just prudent with all the $ your spending already.
just my 2 cents...
Old Nov 23, 2011, 06:49 AM
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Not saying you can't do it, but it doesn't sound like you are very knowledgeable on the subject. Quite a few things can go wrong. Is it worth ruining all your new parts plus more? Everyone has to learn somehow though. Good luck, and follow any manufacturers specs closely when in doubt.

To answer some of your questions,

15 ± 1 ft-lb→ +90° TO 94° -so that means 15ftlbs then plus or minus 1ftlb then a 90to 94 degree turn what tool do i use to get a exact measure ment of 90 degrees i know its just a right angle or a L but i want to get everything dead on: Yup, go to the measured torque, then add a 90 degree turn. You can either mark the stud for a point of reference, or Snap-On makes a TQ wrench that can measure degrees.
Next im going to order bearings i have acl in their now should i keep them or go with clevite's im planning on makeing 350-400whp: I have used both of those bearings. Either one will be just fine for your power goals.
Im going to be using 30wt oil on the arp rod bolts as well as the stock main bearing bolts im getting mixxed answers on wat the torque specs are: Use what ARP says to torque them to.
And for the main bearing bolts torque its 18ft lbs then plus or minus 1ftlb then a 90degree turn how much torque is that in total? Same as the first. Go to your torque setting, then add 90 degree turn.
People say 50ftlbs other say 60ftlbs wich one is it for the rod bolts on the manley's the rods have the arp 2000 bolts in them ? Again, use what the manufacturer says.
I wanted to use plastigauge to check my clearances but everyone says dont use it at all why ? and what should the specs be for that and how do people make them bigger or smaller ?Im guessing by increasing the torque or losening it on the cap is the were that 90-94 degrees of play comes in? You can use Plastiguage, but there are much better techniques/ tools available. Most of what a capable machine shop should have. If you need to change clearances it depends on what it is that needs to be changed. You can change clearances with different sized bearings, or having the parts machined or honed to get it to what specs you want.
What should my ring end gaps be ? i was thinking .018 1st ring and .022 2nd ring is that good for my power goals: I would do the calcs on what the manufacturer of the rings say for your power goals.
Aaron

Last edited by WHTEVO; Nov 23, 2011 at 06:56 AM.
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