Unsprung vs sprung
you're talking about clutches, right? don't get an unsprung disc unless the car is fully intended for racing. basically, if you're not trailering your car to the track, get a sprung disc
it allows for smoother engagement, the unsprung disc has a very harsh engagement
it allows for smoother engagement, the unsprung disc has a very harsh engagement
Sprung clutches help dampen the shock of engagement trough the drivetrain... Unsprung can send all the shock through your gearbox, transfer etc which can actually cause damage to components over time, especially if you are rough and like to launch the car, etc.
But drivability also depends on clutch material, full face or puck design and also pressure plate clamping strength.
But drivability also depends on clutch material, full face or puck design and also pressure plate clamping strength.
Last edited by MISHI; Dec 7, 2011 at 06:55 PM.
There is no shifting advantage to sprung or unsprung in drivability... it's the composition of the disc and force of the clutch plate as I said before. But it WILL affect engagement/ disengagement in driving.
All the sprung / unsprung will do is give you more or less shock as you come off the pedal. In racing where it doesn't matter about driveline shock etc an unsprung clutch is the best bet especially where in harsh conditions as racing an unlikely event as the spring(s) breaking can end your racing day. not to mention with higher horspower/ torque cars the clutches tend to be more metallic for better grip and not full faced in order for the plate to give better clamping ratings...
The Sprung just takes some shock out of the re-engagement so you don't wreck your gearbox synchros (or the box itself) over time.
What you didn't mention is what your goals are with your car.
If you're a daily driver stock or with slight mods (just figure this is your case) just get a good sprung organic such as the ACT HDSS or the Exedy Stage 1. The pedal will be slightly harder but the shifts will be as stock.
If you're into more racing or drag, or with with lots of torque, get the pucks or even a twin/ triple disc system.
All the sprung / unsprung will do is give you more or less shock as you come off the pedal. In racing where it doesn't matter about driveline shock etc an unsprung clutch is the best bet especially where in harsh conditions as racing an unlikely event as the spring(s) breaking can end your racing day. not to mention with higher horspower/ torque cars the clutches tend to be more metallic for better grip and not full faced in order for the plate to give better clamping ratings...
The Sprung just takes some shock out of the re-engagement so you don't wreck your gearbox synchros (or the box itself) over time.
What you didn't mention is what your goals are with your car.
If you're a daily driver stock or with slight mods (just figure this is your case) just get a good sprung organic such as the ACT HDSS or the Exedy Stage 1. The pedal will be slightly harder but the shifts will be as stock.
If you're into more racing or drag, or with with lots of torque, get the pucks or even a twin/ triple disc system.
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unsprung disc grabs quicker. very direct. its best advantage is the trans will shift better at higher RPMs. lockout is at higher RPM. the disadvantage is there is harmonic energy put into driveline. and the springs are there to combat this energy. without the springs the driveshaft becomes noisy during decel and cruise conditions. this is when the driveshaft is not heavily loaded and it able to vibrate from the harmonics. there is more stress on the clutch splines because there is no release from the harmonics. this is why you can find threads on clutch splines stripped out with unsprung discs. happens to singles, twins and triples.
the spring movement is very limited when springs are mounted at clutch disc. and they arent very strong because of the small diameter you have to work with. thats why late model cars come with dual mass flywheels. its a much more effective spot for the springs. allows greater absorption, lighter clutch discs. less noise and stress and driveline parts.
this video shows construction of dual mass. at end it shows movement. skip to 2:10 to see it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
the spring movement is very limited when springs are mounted at clutch disc. and they arent very strong because of the small diameter you have to work with. thats why late model cars come with dual mass flywheels. its a much more effective spot for the springs. allows greater absorption, lighter clutch discs. less noise and stress and driveline parts.
this video shows construction of dual mass. at end it shows movement. skip to 2:10 to see it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
I personally don't have a problem DDing an unspring twin disk. I did have it eat the splines on my input shaft, but, I can't be certain to what actually caused it. Could have been the harmonics, the way the old style QM friction disks were designed, if my disks were "hardened" or not or if it was because I had one of them machined down to try and get more life out of the set.
I just rebuilt the clutch, using the new "Gear-Drive" disks instead of getting a new clutch entirely
I don't get the on/ff switch thing either. It just takes some getting used to, it's not hard to drive.
Either way this was the result:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lure-pics.html
I just rebuilt the clutch, using the new "Gear-Drive" disks instead of getting a new clutch entirely
I don't get the on/ff switch thing either. It just takes some getting used to, it's not hard to drive.
Either way this was the result:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lure-pics.html
The springs do almost nothing for shock absorption. Look at a sprung disc that's seen any abuse and you'll clearly see wear marks on the springs and discs from the springs reaching coil bind. LOTS of wear as it happens constantly. Even without shock loads, I would bet the engine torque alone has them at coil-bind.
They are there to reduce noise on neutral throttle and decel and little else.
They are there to reduce noise on neutral throttle and decel and little else.
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