we had a little misunderstanding with the block notch, but other then that everything is good.. you did your job.. i have no complaints. id use you guys again for machine work. thanks again.

 

more updates .. its actually a full longblock right now but my camera ran out of batteries so will post the rest later.

Here i was pointing to the manual showing steve that the oil pump gear timing marks dont
need to be lined up when you do the balance shaft removal.. but i had them lined up anyways.
We seen this when we packed the pump with lube.

 

Hey Ernie I checked the full assembly tq yesterday it was 5-7ft/lbs.

Clearances were within .004 - .005 inches on everything with a digital dial bore gauge. i don't recall what it was with the feeler gauge. it was within spec though.

I am gonna measure the assembly tq next time with the timing belt on also.. im curious what that is myself. it turns pretty easy though... and we have it loaded
up heavily with Lucas assembly lube .. the oil pump gears are packed also with lube.

 

i still do not like the fact the crank has 2 scratches on it, like i said before the local shop said it was fine. But the scratches were on there when i picked up the block. i DID NOT examine the crank but Tom did first thing when he pulled out of the plastic and instantly saw the scratches. N Unless it could get scratched in a passenger front seat in a plastic bag it was not me that did it.

 

me either.. im a perfectionist.. but it is what it is.. as long as the scratches have no ill effect on the operation and performance of the engine then im ok with it..

I will share how we timed the engine for future reference to others with 2.4's using the stock cam gears from the vehicle & stock kevlar evo 9 timing belt..

The belt is alittle tighter getting on, but when its tensioned down properly 100% where you can slide the pin in and out with ease just blowing on it, then the belt tension is about stock.

If anyone else requests anything else to be shared let me know..

 

Why did you opt out of using a 2.4L Belt?
Specifically, part # MD182292, from a 94 Galant GS/2.4 w/DOHC Head?

 

evo 9 belt is kevlar.. as strong as power enterprise and other $100+ kevlar belts.

 

the 2.4L belt is also thinner then the 4g63 belt's.. and the 4g63 belts works fine if you no what you are doing

 

I was just weary about stretching it, but I suppose the Kevlar characteristic fixes that concern. I believe just the SOHC belt is thinner, but the DOHC one that I posted is the same width.

 

Great build! I've been toying with the idea of building my own engine too and I'm in the same boat... have never built an engine by myself from start to finish. The links to the tools helped out alot and I too have been reading every chance I get. Your my hero!!! Cant wait to see the finished product.

 

Why do you keep rehashing this? You're making something out of nothing. A scratched crank will damage the bearings as soon as it's installed. Tom said that the bearings are fine. That means the crank wasn't scratched.

You bought a reconditioned core crank that was ground .010/010". What you may be seeing are slight imperfections that weren't fully removed when the crank was ground. This is not abnormal because removing another .010" of material from the journal would be more detrimental than the blemish. The blemish is below the surface, it is of no harm at all. The void will fill with oil and that's it. Like I said, if it were scratched from carelessness or abuse it would have damaged the bearing as soon as Tom set it on the bearings. The only way to be certain that you get an aesthetically perfect crank is to buy a new one.

Once you or Tom had seen the scratch, a phone call would have sufficed. I'd have told you to bring it down and I would take care of it, polished it or whatever, regardless of whether your or I scratched it. You jumped behind the keyboard instead and started flaming instead of giving us the opportunity to take care of you as a customer.

 

was that static or dynamic? spinning it was at 5-7 or the break-away torque was 5-7?

Thanks Tom.

 

I've seen this before....customer trys to save a couple bucks my not having it checked....then BAM blame that machine shop for something that they didn't want to have to pay to get checked.

Honestly 5LEEPERISAH23I Just by reading your posts....you seem pretty immature. The last resort in dealing with an issue with a vender is to take it to the forms. To me its cowardly and childish.

Had to say that, anyway continue on.

 

ok well if the crank was fine when it left your shop, its fine with the scratches that is all im saying. Because on the phone you told me i must of scratched the crank and scratches means you need to re-polish it. And that doesnt sit well with me when i no i didnt for a fact and that is how you gave it too me.

lol immature. Im just not scared to say how it is. YES the crank has scratches on it. YES JAM said to me it was not scratched when they gave it too me. YES they said if there are scratches it needs to be lightly polished so i took it too a local machine shop to get it inspected. YES they said the motor was 100% ready to be assembled but put it together and had to notch the block. You can argue it wasnt there fault for that but he knew it was our first time and could said you need to notch the block. just sayin

When you pay for a service of anything in life. You except it to be right and work. I dont want to put it together and have something FAIL because of a machine shop half *ssing work or rigging something.

and FYI JAM is not a Vendor on this site. He is a "Newbie" and joined 1 months ago. A Vendor is someone that pays Evom money every month. He has a free account just like you can me

 

Looking good.