Thanks

we used brad penn break in oil on the cylinder walls/bores all over.. put quite a bit on and left it on.

we also used brad penn break in oil and covered the rings with oil before installation, and also afterwords. I made sure everything was 100% oiled up before installation to assure no snagging or damage occured.

I was able to push the piston into its home without any force.. it just slid right into its cylinder.. no mallet or anything needed like others show on here.

For lube we used Lucas assembly lube, which is green in color and is really good stuff.. its so sticky! we were able to turn the final assembly quite easy by hand even!

 

Glad to hear it.. thats why i documented it.. well that and so people can trust me if they need their engine built.

We spent 30 hrs on the first engine build.. maybe embarrassing to admit, but it shows how critical of a person i really am...

when I told you guys i was **** i wasnt lying.

Every tool i bought got used! I blueprinted the entire engine.

 

Aren't those Manley rods the straight beam design, I thought they were suposed to clear the block with 100mm stroke? I guess not lol.

 

yep those are the straight beam design. and they def dont clear.

 

they do make a "stroker" turbo tuff rod that has a thinner beam, but i dont think anyone uses them. doubt it would even make a difference.

 

these are the straight beam or "stroker" rods, same thing if Im not mistaken.
Whats the weight on these? The normal tapered I beams are around 675g.

 

I am using the straight beam "stroker" rods and was told by MAP that they are about 630 grams.

 

looks good buddy. what is your total investment on all the tools to assemble?

 

Problems with JAM....
Thats new and exciting

I heard so much bad things about motors that come out of that shop its not even funny. I mean its pretty sad when you "specialize" in something and cant even get it right everytime

 

Sucks that the block didn't get clearanced. Nice job documenting the build. I'm highly impressed with all the measuring tools you bought. Quality stuff makes all the difference. I suggest sticky-ing this thread.

 

Good info! Nice progress.

 

somewhere around $750.

 

ya were a bit upset. Thank you. feel free to ask any questions if you have any.

I will say it looked overall good minus a few scratches here and there on the crank, but the clearances they gave us seems reasonable.

The only thing i did not like was, they tried to make the clearance secretive.. even after i told the guy i got the measuring tools so im going to find them regardless.

Thanks Scott.

 

I find it easier to measure the piston size with the mic, then put the bore gauge between the mic and zero it based off of the piston measurement. Then when you put the bore gauge in the cylinder you automatically get the PTW clearance.


Does this really matter? I like to be consistent with how the factory does it but I don't think it matters. It's obviously important to have the pistons the right way in the bore and good practice to be consistent.


If you now have to grind on the block make sure you clean it up very thoroughly before you reassemble. Cleaning up the parts is just as important as having proper clearances etc. Tiny metal particles (like you would get from grinding) that you can't see easily with your eye will ruin a freshly built motor quicker than you can imagine.

 

For the record, setting a bore gauge using a Mic is not technically acceptable for this type of accuracy. However given the cost of a setting fixture I think its justifiable.