wow. that's a long *** build time. i can get an evo done in 2 days. ill probably spend about 8 hrs on the engine assembly the first time around.

 

heres a picture of all tools required to blueprint the engine yourself (and misc other tools to assemble) and to assure your machine shop doesnt screw you over.



heres a pic of the micrometer mic'ing a 2" bullet.. pretty much dead on.. Mitutoyo is the industry standard for micrometers.

 

Just a little bit of equipment, huh??

I'm liking this thread!


-Bink

 

Only thing your missing from this pic is a real engine builder.No offense!!

 

Tom

A lot of bolt manufacturers, suggest the angle method. However using the stretch method when you have access to both sides of the bolt is increasing in popularity as well.
The bolts seem to be in the 30-50 ftib torque range I would imagine for the rods. This type of stuff is a hot topic ( lack of subjectivity similiarily compared to breaking in an engine..i.e purely opinion based.)

Arp is a wonderful resource for learning this as well .

Another thing that I might suggest .. give the machine shop your pistons.. have them bore each hole for that given piston and wall clearance.. they are never all the same.

 

Hey, you have to learn somehow.

I learn by doing as well.


-Bink

 

that really shows your ignorance level towards building an engine. the machine shop does 99% of the work, you just assemble it pretty much.

Assembling the engine actually isn't all that difficult.. i torn down the stock block already and its a hell of a lot easier then i thought.. there's not much to it..

most people just use plastigage and dont even have these tools that do it on the side.. at least im going to blue print all my work and make sure its 100% like a "real engine builder" does.

i know how to set clearances, piece together bearings etc to give me my clearance, and everything i need to know in order to successfully assemble the engine.

 

machine shop already has the pistons.. they need that to bore the cylinder walls properly based on the PTW i request.

the angle method is used on the main studs only. you mean where you tq each main to spec then paint mark it then turn the paint mark 90deg tighter on each stud?

i dunno im gonna use the arp rod bolt stretch gauge unless i read something otherwise.. tq wrench or stretch gauge works.. mostly everything will get oem tq spec pretty much im sure.

no matter what, i have snap on torque wrenches with fresh calibrations so its no big deal.

 

Well put...and congrats on taking on the job yourself instead of getting someone else to do it. Looks like your a perfectionist and I GUARANTEE this customer is going to be happy with his motor in the end.

 

So, when he builds this engine, he won't be considered a real engine builder? He's the one building it right?

 

Well there's a big difference between building it,and assembling it.Your looking to blue print too correct?

 

here is some good information pertaining to angle method
http://www.oliverconnectingrods.com/FAQ2.html
click on the oliver tightening procedure ( pdf)

 

i sure as hell dont own a machine shop to do all the work myself.

yes if you read my initial post, i just stated you should blue print it yourself (measure it all up) even if your machine shop has already done it for you..

once you gain trust with your machine shop then you really dont have to measure.. you can just plastigage to do a quick and dirty check to get an estimate where you're at.. but id never do that personally.. i refuse to build a engine without knowing specs down to the last tenth of thousandths of an inch.

this is my first time though, so i wanna experience everything.. and i feel more comfortable blue printing the engine in all honesty to assure everything is 100%.

 

thanks ill read it.

 

thats like a torque wrench but it has a dial gauge.. so its like a more detailed torque wrench another words. now that pisses me off.. i could of got something like that instead of the rod bolt stretch gauge which will be worthless for other things because it requires a top and bottom to read. i will probably buy that now also.