How to get more HP/TQ up top on Evo 9 Turbo
Jan 22, 2012, 06:34 PM
#37
from the looks of it it seems like the best option is to just move on from the IX turbo. That BB Green does look pretty damn awesome.
Jan 22, 2012, 06:49 PM
#38
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
You definitely need to go bigger. I just thought that you were on a mission to squeeze every last drop out of that dinky little turbo. Under the circumstances, you pretty much tried everything possible.{thumb up}
EDIT: FWIW, I like the MAP EF3 too. At least it is worth considering. It and the BB BBK-B as well.
Last edited by sparky; Jan 22, 2012 at 07:17 PM.
Jan 23, 2012, 10:34 AM
#41
I have had a few high hp stock turbo Evos. You need to make sure the turbo can breath up top. The big thing with such a little turbo is the increased heat you are going to be running into with higher boost in higher rpms, if you can even get it to run higher boost and still make power you are golden. I’ll give you some advice below and if you would like to ask questions or need further help I’m all ears sir.
First things first! I know you have the 25psi actuator. You need to preload it more than it comes from FP. I had to cut two threads off the actuator arm to get the proper preload on the stock turbo and my old Red. You should preload the wga to the point that you are holding 25-26psi out the top on wastegate pressure. The wastegates are designed to open around 23psi. You need to force it to open later and not open all the way by decreasing the travel of the flapper. (Making the wga arm shorter) Take off the nutt and cut 2 treads off. Also once you do that you can look and see what your boost plot looks like. If you are trying to make the most power you can on the stock turbo you may want to look at inducing boost creep and getting it to increase to 26psi out the top. Modifying the wastegate will do that for you.
I would look at getting a 4” intake on the 84mm Compressor cover to let the turbo breath as easy as possible.
Next you need to look at boost control. The AEM EBC is not a good boost controller if you are trying to hold more boost out the top. The AEM doesn’t induce 100 wgdc like many think. It seriously hurt power on my car and I went back to a Hallman. You will be surprised that it helps hold boost better out the top. Or you can try a 3port design.
Don’t listen to what people are telling you about back pressure. The stock turbo doesn’t produce enough airflow to really affect the performance of the turbo in most areas. The largest restriction is the donut flange on the 02 housing/downpipe. If you can modify that with a straight 3” that will help out. Go take off the hotside and port post turbine and open it up to port/match the 02 housing. Increasing the ID of the post turbine section of the housing will increase exhaust velocity/decrease post turbine pressure. You could always do a Single Scroll housing like I did. I picked up 40whp on an already maxed out FP Black.
Another thing you can try, since you are increasing the air temps, is to put a small 500cc meth fogger on the car to cool the air charge pre intake manifold. You will get better air cooling if you can find two 250cc foggers and separate them by a foot to allow better mixing/cooling. I used 100% M1 meth with great results.
btw, your tq is already enough to throw a rod. Putting in S3 cams will help lower your tq and increase your hp.
E85 ftw. Lol
Mikey
First things first! I know you have the 25psi actuator. You need to preload it more than it comes from FP. I had to cut two threads off the actuator arm to get the proper preload on the stock turbo and my old Red. You should preload the wga to the point that you are holding 25-26psi out the top on wastegate pressure. The wastegates are designed to open around 23psi. You need to force it to open later and not open all the way by decreasing the travel of the flapper. (Making the wga arm shorter) Take off the nutt and cut 2 treads off. Also once you do that you can look and see what your boost plot looks like. If you are trying to make the most power you can on the stock turbo you may want to look at inducing boost creep and getting it to increase to 26psi out the top. Modifying the wastegate will do that for you.
I would look at getting a 4” intake on the 84mm Compressor cover to let the turbo breath as easy as possible.
Next you need to look at boost control. The AEM EBC is not a good boost controller if you are trying to hold more boost out the top. The AEM doesn’t induce 100 wgdc like many think. It seriously hurt power on my car and I went back to a Hallman. You will be surprised that it helps hold boost better out the top. Or you can try a 3port design.
Don’t listen to what people are telling you about back pressure. The stock turbo doesn’t produce enough airflow to really affect the performance of the turbo in most areas. The largest restriction is the donut flange on the 02 housing/downpipe. If you can modify that with a straight 3” that will help out. Go take off the hotside and port post turbine and open it up to port/match the 02 housing. Increasing the ID of the post turbine section of the housing will increase exhaust velocity/decrease post turbine pressure. You could always do a Single Scroll housing like I did. I picked up 40whp on an already maxed out FP Black.
Another thing you can try, since you are increasing the air temps, is to put a small 500cc meth fogger on the car to cool the air charge pre intake manifold. You will get better air cooling if you can find two 250cc foggers and separate them by a foot to allow better mixing/cooling. I used 100% M1 meth with great results.
btw, your tq is already enough to throw a rod. Putting in S3 cams will help lower your tq and increase your hp.
E85 ftw. Lol
Mikey
Fronts are 13lbs each and rears are 9lbs each. This saves 22lbs up front and 16lbs in the rear of unsprung weight!
Jan 23, 2012, 04:29 PM
#43
what discharge pipe are you using coming out of the compressor housing? the oem unit necks down in the middle.
fp sells a decent pipe...so does buchur....this is for tubo side of things...
a smaller crank pulley would help you a bit...but some people say no, but other people have run 1 without issue... think of it as lightening the car. i had 1 & it's noticable.....
fp sells a decent pipe...so does buchur....this is for tubo side of things...
a smaller crank pulley would help you a bit...but some people say no, but other people have run 1 without issue... think of it as lightening the car. i had 1 & it's noticable.....
Jan 23, 2012, 07:04 PM
#44
I have had a few high hp stock turbo Evos. You need to make sure the turbo can breath up top. The big thing with such a little turbo is the increased heat you are going to be running into with higher boost in higher rpms, if you can even get it to run higher boost and still make power you are golden. I’ll give you some advice below and if you would like to ask questions or need further help I’m all ears sir.
First things first! I know you have the 25psi actuator. You need to preload it more than it comes from FP. I had to cut two threads off the actuator arm to get the proper preload on the stock turbo and my old Red. You should preload the wga to the point that you are holding 25-26psi out the top on wastegate pressure. The wastegates are designed to open around 23psi. You need to force it to open later and not open all the way by decreasing the travel of the flapper. (Making the wga arm shorter) Take off the nutt and cut 2 treads off. Also once you do that you can look and see what your boost plot looks like. If you are trying to make the most power you can on the stock turbo you may want to look at inducing boost creep and getting it to increase to 26psi out the top. Modifying the wastegate will do that for you.
I would look at getting a 4” intake on the 84mm Compressor cover to let the turbo breath as easy as possible.
Next you need to look at boost control. The AEM EBC is not a good boost controller if you are trying to hold more boost out the top. The AEM doesn’t induce 100 wgdc like many think. It seriously hurt power on my car and I went back to a Hallman. You will be surprised that it helps hold boost better out the top. Or you can try a 3port design.
Don’t listen to what people are telling you about back pressure. The stock turbo doesn’t produce enough airflow to really affect the performance of the turbo in most areas. The largest restriction is the donut flange on the 02 housing/downpipe. If you can modify that with a straight 3” that will help out. Go take off the hotside and port post turbine and open it up to port/match the 02 housing. Increasing the ID of the post turbine section of the housing will increase exhaust velocity/decrease post turbine pressure. You could always do a Single Scroll housing like I did. I picked up 40whp on an already maxed out FP Black.
Another thing you can try, since you are increasing the air temps, is to put a small 500cc meth fogger on the car to cool the air charge pre intake manifold. You will get better air cooling if you can find two 250cc foggers and separate them by a foot to allow better mixing/cooling. I used 100% M1 meth with great results.
btw, your tq is already enough to throw a rod. Putting in S3 cams will help lower your tq and increase your hp.
E85 ftw. Lol
Mikey
First things first! I know you have the 25psi actuator. You need to preload it more than it comes from FP. I had to cut two threads off the actuator arm to get the proper preload on the stock turbo and my old Red. You should preload the wga to the point that you are holding 25-26psi out the top on wastegate pressure. The wastegates are designed to open around 23psi. You need to force it to open later and not open all the way by decreasing the travel of the flapper. (Making the wga arm shorter) Take off the nutt and cut 2 treads off. Also once you do that you can look and see what your boost plot looks like. If you are trying to make the most power you can on the stock turbo you may want to look at inducing boost creep and getting it to increase to 26psi out the top. Modifying the wastegate will do that for you.
I would look at getting a 4” intake on the 84mm Compressor cover to let the turbo breath as easy as possible.
Next you need to look at boost control. The AEM EBC is not a good boost controller if you are trying to hold more boost out the top. The AEM doesn’t induce 100 wgdc like many think. It seriously hurt power on my car and I went back to a Hallman. You will be surprised that it helps hold boost better out the top. Or you can try a 3port design.
Don’t listen to what people are telling you about back pressure. The stock turbo doesn’t produce enough airflow to really affect the performance of the turbo in most areas. The largest restriction is the donut flange on the 02 housing/downpipe. If you can modify that with a straight 3” that will help out. Go take off the hotside and port post turbine and open it up to port/match the 02 housing. Increasing the ID of the post turbine section of the housing will increase exhaust velocity/decrease post turbine pressure. You could always do a Single Scroll housing like I did. I picked up 40whp on an already maxed out FP Black.
Another thing you can try, since you are increasing the air temps, is to put a small 500cc meth fogger on the car to cool the air charge pre intake manifold. You will get better air cooling if you can find two 250cc foggers and separate them by a foot to allow better mixing/cooling. I used 100% M1 meth with great results.
btw, your tq is already enough to throw a rod. Putting in S3 cams will help lower your tq and increase your hp.
E85 ftw. Lol
Mikey
I have only had the S2's in for about 2 weeks, so the s3's are not going to happen for a while.
I am going to pull some more TQ out of the car, I already lowered the boost from 32 down to 28 to keep it under control. I was at the 490ftlbs mark at like 4200rpm. That was just asking for bad **** to happen.
Jan 24, 2012, 07:46 AM
#45
Well the hotside would have to be custom made. I am the only one in the world that I know of to have and operate a Single Scroll Stock Appearing turbo, might I say with great success.
You can control tq with * at peak. How many degrees are you currently running at peak? Boost and timing out the top is what you should be focusing on. Midrange you can play with to keep the motor together.
Mikey
You can control tq with * at peak. How many degrees are you currently running at peak? Boost and timing out the top is what you should be focusing on. Midrange you can play with to keep the motor together.
Mikey