DIY CUSTOM Battery Relocation!
Also not switching them for longer ones as I went to a 0 gauge positve wire and 6 gauge for ground wires (running 2 grounds)
The distribustion block is the easiest, cleanest way in my opinion
^Yea I like the way you guys have it, I'm welding in my battery box tomorrow but I think I'm going to skip the distribution block and run them straight back. This next winter when I pull the motor and redo my engine bay and Chase Bay harness I'll do this. Good write up guys.
I was gonna take pics and write up a how to but I got to thinking that there are so many different setups people are running it may not fit for everybody. The wiring is somewhat simple on these cars anyhow. If you can cut and solder wires then its just a matter of having free time to do this. I have alot of downtime since the evo isnt running yet so Ive been contemplating re routing the fuse box and mounting it in the glove box area.. I just have been to lazy to motivate myself to that challenge.
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did they have to drill new holes in the trunk?
I have a subwoofer in the trunk the ssl one, does the trunk need to be vented? or is this battery okay to keep in a closed area?
thanks if anyone could help.
I have a subwoofer in the trunk the ssl one, does the trunk need to be vented? or is this battery okay to keep in a closed area?
thanks if anyone could help.
Mine is a SSL i sold the sub. honestly can't really tell much difference without it. I drilled 2 holes on the back plastic piece 2" from the sqaure holes by the latch. 2 holes in the back of the marine box @ 2 Big heavy duty zip ties. hasn't moved an inch.
Ah I see now. That looks really clean but I think I'm gonna try something else because I've been rear ended before and I think that would be a bad spot for safety. I want to place it further in on the other side of the mounting bolt hole.
Trunk does not need to be vented if you have a gel cell (agm) battery
Yeah I was going to mount it dead center behind the rear seat, BUT you'll need 2 more ft of wire, & the box will need to be welded down.
I really enjoyed reading through this.
I am tracking on the required parts list: Marine battery box, 2-gauge battery cable (18-feet), battery terminals, copper connector rings, various nuts/bolts/screws.
For the battery boxes, I took a look at the Taylor battery trays, and they look pretty polished and safer overall than the industrial plastic.
http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products...i/batteryTrays
I saw an earlier post asking why would the easiest way NOT be to simply replace the OEM cables with the longer cables. I thought the same thing.
Some claim the circuit breaker is not needed but I believe that added safety is a good thing. Where would you fellas recommend me purchase one?
Step 6 was a little confusing to me.
Lastly, how is the battery cut off installed?
I apologize for the many questions as I am not trying to take anything for granted. Thanks.
I am tracking on the required parts list: Marine battery box, 2-gauge battery cable (18-feet), battery terminals, copper connector rings, various nuts/bolts/screws.
For the battery boxes, I took a look at the Taylor battery trays, and they look pretty polished and safer overall than the industrial plastic.
http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products...i/batteryTrays
I saw an earlier post asking why would the easiest way NOT be to simply replace the OEM cables with the longer cables. I thought the same thing.
Some claim the circuit breaker is not needed but I believe that added safety is a good thing. Where would you fellas recommend me purchase one?
Step 6 was a little confusing to me.
Lastly, how is the battery cut off installed?
I apologize for the many questions as I am not trying to take anything for granted. Thanks.
Last edited by Levar; Aug 12, 2012 at 12:13 PM.






