I have a older 6 leg design with roughly 7k miles on it. The car is around 400 wtq on stock turbo. Mostly auto x and street driving. Recently while I was driving on the interstate and while I exited and down shifted the engagement point was right off the floor. It would still go in gear but was a little rough. I bled the clutch and it did not help. I limped the car back and noticed it would chatter with loud and not on decel like normal. The pedal also feels notchy.
I was thinking I need a rebuild. If anyone has any input I am welcome to it. Has anyone had issues with the master cylinder failing? I searched but only found posts about evo X.

 

I dont think that is a rebuild issue...the only issue i have ever had with this clutch is it doesnt last for **** when you commute in stop and go traffic. I have rebuilt at least 4 times (I lost count lol) and i have gotten anywhere from 20,000 (LOTS OF FREEWAY MILES) to as little as 6000 (possibly because I didnt resurface the flywheel). I am abou to purchase the 8 leg which last 30% longer supposedly and the gear drive and sprung hub on the street disc should make it easier to take off and shifting should improve. Is the pedal notchy when the car is off? When you say notchy, does it feel like air gaps? If so it could be the slave/master cylinder.

 

What were the symptoms of when the clutch went out? Did the rebuild take care of the issues. I wouldn't say it feels like air pockets but more like its catching on something. Is it worth upgrading to the new disk design?

 

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It's been my experience that it is absolutely worth switching to the new style 'gear-drive hub' disks.

You can get a 'street' version of them that is supposed to be less harsh than the 'race' ones. The race disks feel much smoother in my car than the old style disks that came with the clutch when I got it from MAP..

If nothing else, the gear-drive disks should be much easier on the input shaft of the trans than the old style ones.

 

Is it a straight swap for the new disks? Where did you get the rebuild from? I'm guessing that you still need to step the flywheel?
Does anyone know a good way to check the master cylinder?

 

Finally got time to pull the clutch. I had to move the car around in the garage before I pulled it. The symptoms are the clutch engages right off the floor. It makes a higher pitched than normal with the clutch pressed. It also didn't want to stay running with or without the clutch in.
I pulled the clutch and the disks look like they have a lot of life left. A few hot spots on the floaters and flywheel.
I am planning on sending it in to QM for them to check it out.
Here are the photos

 

I know the 'race' disks were a direct swap. I got the disks and floater from MAP.

The set I took out that was "worn out" as it would slip once the FP red I had at the time spooled on a freeway pull they looked like they had a lot of life left. The issue with the old style disks is the friction material doesn't have to wear down very much for the two hubs(that ride on the input shaft) to touch.

There's only maybe 3k on my current set of the gear-drive 'race' disks so I can't comment on how long they will last.