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Evo 9 GSR & TTR Built 2.3L Oil Consumption

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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #136  
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Does the car still burn oil after the newest build?
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by AWD96
Does the car still burn oil after the newest build?
Nope, engine doesn't seem to burn any oil, car doesn't smell like oil and there is no smoke coming out the exhaust. Whatever I put in, stays in, don't have to add none
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #138  
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What parts did you reuse, and what parts were replaced between now and previous builds? How many miles do you have on the current setup and is it a new turbo ?
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by AWD96
What parts did you reuse, and what parts were replaced between now and previous builds? How many miles do you have on the current setup and is it a new turbo ?
Valve Springs were re-used, everything else was replaced. All rods, pistons, valves, seals, retainers, bearings, I went with bigger cams this time.

We had to go overbore to .40.

Currently around 500 miles, it's the same turbo I just had it cleaned.
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 12:30 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by bbong
Valve Springs were re-used, everything else was replaced. All rods, pistons, valves, seals, retainers, bearings, I went with bigger cams this time.

We had to go overbore to .40.

Currently around 500 miles, it's the same turbo I just had it cleaned.
nice to hear it does no more consump oil.
Did you replaced the crankshaft? What brand is now the piston, rod, crank combo?
And is it stroker again?
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 11:57 AM
  #141  
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Yes crank has been replaced as it was cracked.

I went with my builders recommendations in terms of the build vs my use , i dont plan on crazy hp but 500whp eventually is my end goal and i want to track the car as much as i can.

Crank is Manley stroker , turbo tuff rods and Manley Platinum pistons . The reason why i went with them is again builders recommendation but their explanation is based on my car use , is that these pistons have the largest skirt to cylinder area thus reducing piston movement and its wear.

I was told that most of the piston companies going after the fad of high revving and in order to do that you need to shave weight, a lot of places it's piston and their skirts. The more is removed the more piston is rocked around cylinder resulting in faster wear or crappier seal.

Car is supper smooth, runs great and i dont have to carry quarts of oil with me, it's weird to get used to, checking oil level and it is the same everytime i check after hundreds of miles on it.

It is still too early to rave about it , i want to see how it's going to survive upcoming season but im set on leaving an Evo scene as i got burnt one too many times and im puzzled as to why people still fall for these shinnagens and they dont become more apparent here on the forums.

And remember one thing, if your engine is consuming oil there's obviously something wrong with it. I leanrned it the hard way
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 06:56 AM
  #142  
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Read through this whole thread. I'm still very curious what the cause of consumption was.
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 07:55 AM
  #143  
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I think what the OP is getting at is a bad ring seal on the two previous motors due to either piston design and or the rings just not seating themselves in the first place
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #144  
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Just read every word...interesting as i had a full 2.3 build done 2 years ago and from the get i was going through 1qt of oil in 75 miles...it was nothing for me to use 3qts on a highway trip from Richmond to Newport news and back again and sometimes more. I was constantly checking/topping off the oil no matter what i did whether it be going to the gym ten minutes away or just driving to get a six pack. Id check the oil every time i started it. It was pathetic. My shop told me it was normal that all built motors burn oil but none of the guys i knew with built evos burned any and they absolutely beat the living dog **** out of their cars and i was terrified to drive like that because of oil being low at any given moment. It was so bad id pull over on the interstate just to check my oil if i felt like pulling on the car one time.
Eventually as you probably expect i experienced catastrophic engine failure. Sent it back to the shop i trusted and had another build done at full cost to me and even paid for some oem parts that mysteriously went bad while sitting in my trunk while the motor was being built at full dealer cost even though they're cheaper EVERYWHERE else you look.
What bbong experienced was word for word picture for picture what i experienced. From the way the plugs looked to how oil pooled on the pistons and i was told that was normal when i mentioned it before the motor let go but when they tore down the motor all of the sudden the way the pistons looked was a problem...also they told me the oil looked too thick and gummy but it was the oil that was recommended by them.
Sorry to hijack but my point is bbong knew something was off with his car and i applaud him for putting it out there and wondering wtf was wrong. I wish i would have spoken up when i noticed how much oil i used to the community and not just to the shop that built my car and led me away from serious issues and just drained my bank account instead
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 06:26 PM
  #145  
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Did you ever confirm that the headstuds were at proper tq? I'm curious as to how you were loosing so much oil
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 04:35 AM
  #146  
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What was the breakin procedure on these engines?
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 05:25 AM
  #147  
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Just bought a 2.3 shortblock and stage 3 head, hopefully I don't run into the same issues.
I'm curious to see how you guys broke in your motors? As we all know, correct break-in procedures are key to a healthy motor.
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by tckn19s
Just read every word...interesting as i had a full 2.3 build done 2 years ago and from the get i was going through 1qt of oil in 75 miles...it was nothing for me to use 3qts on a highway trip from Richmond to Newport news and back again and sometimes more. I was constantly checking/topping off the oil no matter what i did whether it be going to the gym ten minutes away or just driving to get a six pack. Id check the oil every time i started it. It was pathetic. My shop told me it was normal that all built motors burn oil but none of the guys i knew with built evos burned any and they absolutely beat the living dog **** out of their cars and i was terrified to drive like that because of oil being low at any given moment. It was so bad id pull over on the interstate just to check my oil if i felt like pulling on the car one time.
Eventually as you probably expect i experienced catastrophic engine failure. Sent it back to the shop i trusted and had another build done at full cost to me and even paid for some oem parts that mysteriously went bad while sitting in my trunk while the motor was being built at full dealer cost even though they're cheaper EVERYWHERE else you look.
What bbong experienced was word for word picture for picture what i experienced. From the way the plugs looked to how oil pooled on the pistons and i was told that was normal when i mentioned it before the motor let go but when they tore down the motor all of the sudden the way the pistons looked was a problem...also they told me the oil looked too thick and gummy but it was the oil that was recommended by them.
Sorry to hijack but my point is bbong knew something was off with his car and i applaud him for putting it out there and wondering wtf was wrong. I wish i would have spoken up when i noticed how much oil i used to the community and not just to the shop that built my car and led me away from serious issues and just drained my bank account instead
Yeah i was also led to believe that built engines consume oil and i was told to drive it just to make sure my oil level was fine. Not once was i asked to bring the engine in for inspection after i ruled out everything around it as being an issue.

Also had to eat the whole cost as it seems that whenever things like this happen , shop is never at fault for churning out faulty engine , it is either a tuner or a user.

We should create a sticky and track build satisfaction from different shops that way others can see what to expect when going with Shop A vs Shop B , im sure things would be much clearer to unsuspecting buyer.

Originally Posted by dsm nexus
Did you ever confirm that the headstuds were at proper tq? I'm curious as to how you were loosing so much oil
Wouldnt that seep oil into coolant or coolant into cylinders causing it to smoke or overheat ?

Originally Posted by ExViTermini
What was the breakin procedure on these engines?
With Buschur it was "Let it idle for 30min and look for any leaks and then you can put it on the dyno" always used recommended by them BradPenn 20w50.

Originally Posted by CNC_OUTLAW
Just bought a 2.3 shortblock and stage 3 head, hopefully I don't run into the same issues.
I'm curious to see how you guys broke in your motors? As we all know, correct break-in procedures are key to a healthy motor.
I had few engines built over the years and they vary between builders. Buschurs you already know , TTR was Valvoline dino change it first time after 450miles and no boost up to 1000 miles and then change oil and car can be tuned.

Current engine is on BradPenn BreakIn oil 30w for 2k/miles and then switching to 10w40 for winter and 20w50 for summer. On first start i had it rev at 2400rpm for few minutes then just drive it for 2k/miles without much boost , lots of stop and go and no long trips. Check compression and make sure they're all within specs.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 12:21 PM
  #149  
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This Evo market is the only one in which it's acceptable for a "built" engine to smoke. This is the result of a handful of unscrupulous vendors who have managed to convince the customer base that it's normal, while it most certainly is not. It's a very frustrating thing to deal with and bbong's experience is a perfect example.

An engine that smokes (independent of turbocharger problems) is due to improper machining, clearances or assembly. Every once in a while someone will really screw up the break-in and wash out the rings but that's far from the norm.

The goal of using forged pistons is not only for strength but also to maximize ring seal inside the engine. Precisely machined ringlands, even expansion rate of the piston, support provided by the skirt and the design and materials of the rings themselves all contribute to superior sealing. An engine which is sealed up tight minimizes blowby, maximizes power and improves oil control and flow through the engine by eliminating positive crankcase pressure. Not only does the ring seal contribute to efficiency during the power stroke, but also on the intake stroke as the seal allows the piston to draw more air into the cylinder. An engine which smokes will throw every one of these benefits right out the window.

Downsides resulting from insufficient ring seal include:
Low HP thanks to inefficiency
Burning oil
Oil contamination
Higher oil temps
Poor windage
Increased frictional loss
Higher propensity for detonation
Excessive crankcase pressure
Dipsticks blow out
Oil seals and gaskets leak
Premature breakdown of oil and its' additive package
Incomplete combustion

If you're willing to accept all of those things as "normal" and not experience all of the benefits of a good set of pistons then why waste your money building a shortblock?
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 01:13 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by TonyJAM
This Evo market is the only one in which it's acceptable for a "built" engine to smoke. This is the result of a handful of unscrupulous vendors who have managed to convince the customer base that it's normal, while it most certainly is not. It's a very frustrating thing to deal with and bbong's experience is a perfect example.

An engine that smokes (independent of turbocharger problems) is due to improper machining, clearances or assembly. Every once in a while someone will really screw up the break-in and wash out the rings but that's far from the norm.

The goal of using forged pistons is not only for strength but also to maximize ring seal inside the engine. Precisely machined ringlands, even expansion rate of the piston, support provided by the skirt and the design and materials of the rings themselves all contribute to superior sealing. An engine which is sealed up tight minimizes blowby, maximizes power and improves oil control and flow through the engine by eliminating positive crankcase pressure. Not only does the ring seal contribute to efficiency during the power stroke, but also on the intake stroke as the seal allows the piston to draw more air into the cylinder. An engine which smokes will throw every one of these benefits right out the window.

Downsides resulting from insufficient ring seal include:
Low HP thanks to inefficiency
Burning oil
Oil contamination
Higher oil temps
Poor windage
Increased frictional loss
Higher propensity for detonation
Excessive crankcase pressure
Dipsticks blow out
Oil seals and gaskets leak
Premature breakdown of oil and its' additive package
Incomplete combustion

If you're willing to accept all of those things as "normal" and not experience all of the benefits of a good set of pistons then why waste your money building a shortblock?
You are 100% right.
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