Evo 9 GSR & TTR Built 2.3L Oil Consumption
If you have oil pooling on the tops of the pistons, I doubt it is the turbo. What was done to the head before/during/after the motor swaps. Could be your valves guides leaking. That would explain oil on the pistons after two replacement short blocks if the head stayed the same other than a deck.
If the head was pressurized and the valves were all closed it may have checked out ok because of the oil flowing in the reverse direction of the pressure check. I am no expert on this subject but it gives you another scenario to look at.
If the head was pressurized and the valves were all closed it may have checked out ok because of the oil flowing in the reverse direction of the pressure check. I am no expert on this subject but it gives you another scenario to look at.
Head was originally done by TTR, so valves, seals, springs, retainers. Second time around I took the whole engine over to BR as I couldn't stand the oil use and the engine's been redone by them, so when I noticed the engine burning about the same amount of oil, the last remaining thing left in the oil path that hasn't been changed was the Turbo.
After changing Turbo's the same amount of consumption continued, and I examined exhaust port and intake piping, there is no visible sign of the Turbo spewing oil.
If it was valve guides, wouldn't that smoke during start up? Car never smokes during idle or start up, and even driving it, it doesn't smoke unless I start boosting it. I'm no expert either, I have to get around to doing that leakdown, but I just want to take the car somewhere so they can figure out wtf is going on, for example, 70mile casual drive yesterday resulted in 1/4qt of oil vanishing.
I'll drive around and take out the same plug after driving, let it sit over night and see if the crude pool shows up again, if it does then it would make it a head issue, guides or seals? But why isn't it smoking at start up with so much oil sitting there? :/
I just let it idle and reach the operating temperature, then I floored it few times and lots of black smoke came out initially and then it stopped. I then removed the plugs from the same piston and now it looks more proper.
Notice that the pool of oil is gone:
I'll let it sit for a while and see if shows up again.
Notice that the pool of oil is gone:
I'll let it sit for a while and see if shows up again.
If that was oil sitting there it would smoke it's *** off upon startup. I don't see that much sign of oil on your plugs..
When you changed turbo's were the exhaust ports on the head wet? Have you pulled your downpipe off and looked to see if there was signs of oil there?
When you changed turbo's were the exhaust ports on the head wet? Have you pulled your downpipe off and looked to see if there was signs of oil there?
Nope, they were not wet, that's what puzzled me, as in other cars, there was visible oil residue either on the exhaust ports or the exhaust portion of the turbo and there was none.
The DP was removed many times, I'll probably remove it again today as well as the intake mani. and look at the valves steams.
The DP was removed many times, I'll probably remove it again today as well as the intake mani. and look at the valves steams.
TTR was/is(?) either a big hit or a big miss in regards to machine work/engines in general.....
My guess is the head needs work. You've got this far and are obviously determined to fix it, so I would pull the head and send it to a reputable shop. Regardless of where you send it, demand new valve guides/seals/etc....
(I have to mention that because I once spoke with a shop that it was ok to reuse valve stem seals on a 1500HP Modular Ford build)....
My guess is the head needs work. You've got this far and are obviously determined to fix it, so I would pull the head and send it to a reputable shop. Regardless of where you send it, demand new valve guides/seals/etc....
(I have to mention that because I once spoke with a shop that it was ok to reuse valve stem seals on a 1500HP Modular Ford build)....
Im thinking the valve stems are on the thin side and the seals are not working properly on them, allowing the oil to seep past on shut down to pool in the cylinders.
My .02c is that you need to have all the guides replaced, have the valve stem clearance checked ( if out of spec, new valves are in order ) new seals ( make sure they are the correct ones for the springs....there are interference issues with running some dual springs and the valve seals ). then get re-tuned. Make sure the catch can system pulls enough vacuum from the valve cover under all conditions of boost to prevent pushing oil down the seals.
And keep monitoring the oil usage rate.
Engine didn't survive HPDE and spun a rod bearing , going to call Buschurs tomorrow , there was some metal shavings in the head too going to take pics tomorrow as i have no idea where that metal came from.
