I have a exedy triple im getting rid of, parting out my evo.. if youre interested pm

 

A 6 puck will hold the power fine. If you launch the car it's not going to last, but if you're just looking to street the car normally a Comp Stage IV should do you alright.

 

Thanks guys for the reply's. I want a good clutch I do know that. But when I started the thread I knew guys were gonna be throwing out exedy twin,triple,quartermaster twin. Clutches are just one of those things that are so iffy. I mean you can look at torque specs on the same clutch in three diff sites and they will all say something diff. I just wanted to find people that had a clutch with that much torque and were able to not burn it up after a short period of time. Its very realistic to not want to spend 2000 but might not be realistic to have to spend it.lol

 

^This

I know lots of people that run this tq and have single plate clutches (these people don't drag/launch often). Comp stage 4 for $600, holds 575tq.

 

Now where's the fun in that? Normal street driving all the time. I'm not looking to launch the car all the time but something that isn't gonna slip at wot period.

 

or have high rpm lockout.

 

Comp HD has no lockout brotha. It won't slip under wot. It just won't take well to continuous launching.

 

exedy twin hd will take 600whp. clutches are rated in tq capacity not hp though. a twin will take 550wtq all day.

a qm 8 leg will work well also and is not that expensive. if you need help pm me. (pricing wise)

with an evo, if you get a really cheap clutch you're gonna run into issues. the twin can be had for slightly over 1k which should be acceptable to you if you want your car to shift clean and have a long clutch life.

the qm 8 leg is the best bang for buck for an evo right now, but it is pretty aggressive due to the HTB. but you adjust to it.

sorry i cant think of any clutches other then those two for that power level that are street friendly or dont cause shift lock out issues.

 

Bingo! kinda sucks man but spend the $ one time and get a twin... if it $hits the bed its the price of one of the single plate clutches to rebuild. like smurfzilla said a single will have issues with high rpm lockout witch is not just "oh crap it wont shift" its also beating the hell out of the trans witch means eventually your gonna wear out syncro's eventually, trying to shift it. A trans rebuild is no fun if you don't wana spend a ton of $. also a single has a heavier pressure plate then a twin and with that comes side load on thrust bearings on the crank, also no good. Hands down in the long run the twin or triple will out perform a single and also be less abusive on the thrust bearing's and the trans in the aspects I stated earlier.

 

theres also a lot of misconception on this forum pertaining to certain clutches locking out because of user error not having proper master cylinder adjustment for proper clutch pedal travel and so forth.

so if you see someone with a lock out issue, it is not necessarily always because of that specific clutch they are using. you will find exedy lock outs also, yet ive never been locked out with a twin or triple unless i had a transmission issue.

thats another factor. if the trans is not healthy you will be locked out also by either a synchro going bad or maybe worn gears. and list continues.

 

thanks guys. I was hoping someone was going to point out a magical cheap clutch.lol but I learned alot from this thread.imbdef going with the twin or triple. Now...all I need is the cash

 

My Exedy twin was handling 700whp no problem. It's all about the TQ guys. 600whp shouldn't be a problem for an exedy twin.

 

my twin hd has been holding 602hp/496tq @36psi on MD dyno for a little bit now but its definitely always in the back of my head when im driving cause i know the clutch is close to its limit.. dont cheap out its no fun replacing the clutch often!


John

 

I feel like people always regurgitate the same stuff. I'm not saying I don't believe it, but what evidence says that the engagement of a sprung 6 puck disc kills synchros?

On a DD I just don't get how it's logical to buy a clutch over $1K (being EXTREMELY generous on price) that will need to be rebuilt every year and will cost that much to rebuild.

I agree that a QM or Exedy is necessary at some point, but there's a large chance if the OP is making 600whp he's only making 500ft/lbs and an HD 6 Puck can handle that no problem. ER has guys running that clutch at that power level for 40k miles.

Not arguing, just trying to get some insight on why no one agrees. There's gotta be more than just here say.

 

That was my point with the thread initially. Now also I titled it 600 whp clutch but I noted that with 600 whp my torque would exceed the limits of my current clutch. I'm tracking clutch rating is based on torque. Just wanna throw that out there.